Floating blank

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Skie_M

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Just came up with an idea for a new style of blank ....


A clear-cast blank with themed pictures or items at it's base ....

It is turned round and just BELOW finished dimensions ...

A decal that fits the theme is then applied and CA is built up over it till it is above finished dimensions ....

Finish sanding and polishing ...


The decal will appear to "float" over the items that are cast in the blank below it.
 
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Skie_M

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Here's an example idea ....


Base brass tube with photo of a deer wrapped round it (3/8ths tube for Deer Hunter or 30-cal bullet pen)

Cast in clear alumilite ....

When cured, turn to just below finished diameter...

Lay a decal on the surface of a targeting reticle ... over the deer!

Apply CA in thick layers till it's back above finished diameter ....

Sand to finish dimensions, and polish.

Holding the finished pen at just the right angle will allow you to target your deer!
 

JohnU

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I've toyed with this concept a bit modeling my idea after a snow globe scenery. A couple issues you will face... There usually isn't much room left in the resin thickness of most pens to apply layers and the resin magnifies the items within which takes away from the layer depth effect. I think there are workable ideas but I'm guessing the second applied images will have to be smaller than the first. (Just my opinion). I say give it a try! Just pick a pen that has a lot of meat on the bone.
 

Skie_M

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Actually, I think the image background may need to be smaller than what's applied as the decal due to the magnification effect ...
 

jttheclockman

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Actually, I think the image background may need to be smaller than what's applied as the decal due to the magnification effect ...


Don't talk about it do it. This will make you stronger. :) Never ever talk about an idea. Try it for yourself. I will tell you this Ed Davidson AKA YoYospin did this all the time with his bottlestoppers. Look him up. Fresh ideas is what this site needs. Go for it.
 

Skie_M

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Meh ... I haven't got the money or the equipment yet to even begin to attempt this ... I still don't even have a workshop or shed, lol ... I've got wood chips all over my living room floor!


Currently, working on building myself a lightbox ... I need one to photograph my pens and other projects. I'm about 40 - 60 dollars away from finishing that.

After that, I want to try casting ... I can get to Hobby Lobby for Alumilite, and I know where to go for molds if I want to encase stuff. And Hobby Lobby has the decal paper I need ... total cost to get me started on that is around 80 - 100 dollars, but I definately don't want to do this in the winter time OR inside my house....


I had the idea, but I can't do it right now. Why should I hold anybody else back? :)

I might be able to try it sometime around next spring.


Already have many projects going on the back burner ... Spent nearly 120 dollars for stained glass tools and supplies ... And another 120 dollars on Polyclay tools and supplies...

Honestly, I should cut this out before I run out of money to do anything and make my workshop first, lol!


Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I still need to order some more alabaster so that I have a larger selection of colors to work with... that's gonna run me another 50 - 60 dollars. So far, I think I've spent 110 on stoneworking. :)


more editing:

I'm TRYING to do just one project at a time ... thank god I haven't gotten into segmenting yet. I think coming to IAP may have been a mistake .... I have too many ideas pulling me in every direction. But the trip's been fun so far, so I aint gettin off the bus yet!
 
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jttheclockman

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I would not spend alot of money on a light tent. Not at all needed. Couple of HomeDepot clip on lights or you always have Mother Nature. No better light source and photo tent than outdoors.

As far as the other stuff you need to get your head in order and concentrate on one project or play the lottery. It is good you have ideas in mind and hopefully you can follow through. Good luck. :)

Have to say I misread your other posts. My bad.:eek:
 
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TurtleTom

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Skie M, I'm afraid you and I have the same disease. I have never been satisfied with only one hobby. You'll learn to make your own tools or go broke. Learn to weld and blacksmith first.
p.s. I had a lot of fun with the glass.
 

Skie_M

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If this is a disease, I think it's terminal.


Oh yeah ... if I see a blank like this popping up over at Exotic Blanks or elsewhere, you can bet I'm gonna buy one ...

Just make sure there's a 3/8ths tube, sized for the 30 cal bullet pens! :)
 
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JohnU

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One problem I had with this when I tried it was after you turned the blank round, it made it hard to see that there were layers because of the magnification. its noticeable when square if the sides are clear enough to see through but because of the minimal space between the tube and outer resin edge it all blended together. I was trying to make a snowman with a winter scene and falling snow around him. After it was turned, it all looked like the same depth and I moved on. I chalked it up as a project for another day and just never got back to it. Id like to see someone else try it with their ideas to see what could be. Good luck to all!
 

jttheclockman

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My guess is that the amount of clear resin is so minimal that it will not work. What might work is if you start out with a clear tube or a clear cap. So the amount of clarity is now larger.

4834853.jpg



Put you snowman in there and then add snowflakes like a snow globe. Shake it to make them move
 
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79spitfire

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I wonder if a clear polycarbonate tube as a base might work as well. It may be able to replace the pen tubes for a 'Demonstrator' pen effect. Apply decals over tube and re-cast or coat with CA, then sand or turn down. The tubing is available in a 1/4" ID which is very close to the inside diameter of a slimline tube...

Some of the thicker pens may provide possibilities as well. Smitty's Le-Roi lines offer smaller diameter tubes on relatively thicker pens, to provide a thicker material in the finished pen.
 

Chasper

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I've been working with an alternative material for casting. It's called ProKote highbuild. It is an epoxy made for attaching line guides to fishing rods. In its simplist form I overturn wood blanks, add a couple layers of ProKote, then turn again.

I use it over carbon fiber, you could cast carbon fiber in Similar41, overturn it, attach a decal, overcoat it with ProKot, then turn it again. You will need a rod dryer. Try it out on a Sierra Vista, you will need all the thickness you can get.
 
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