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Old 04-08-2016, 12:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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John, do you feel like using the PR to adhere the carbon fiber reduces the separation of the carbon fiber to PR after casting? I have done a few and used thin CA, but after casting I get the dreaded separation, which looks like air bubbles on the surface of the carbon.

Hello Dan

I never had any separation from the tube. The silmar has good adhesive characteristics to it. Sometimes if i forget to wax the rods I have to take a knife and scrape it off. The outgassing from CA is enough for me not to put it in the equation. As I said the voids of the braiding can cause air bubbles even if you pressure. I have eliminated that with the method I use. Now this is my method and some may use other methods and that is fine. If it works for you then continue. I am not telling anyone to do it my way. Just wanted to show a method to help the OP. Anchoring the braiding with the tie wraps has made things easier for me in that it helps take out the slack in the braiding and makes it lay flat. Some braiding come folded flat and that crease can be a pain to lay flat. To me this works. Also noted Silmar has no problems sticking to the a layer of itself. No seams showing or anything like that.
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:14 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by KCW View Post
John, do you feel like using the PR to adhere the carbon fiber reduces the separation of the carbon fiber to PR after casting? I have done a few and used thin CA, but after casting I get the dreaded separation, which looks like air bubbles on the surface of the carbon.

Hello Dan

I never had any separation from the tube. The silmar has good adhesive characteristics to it. Sometimes if i forget to wax the rods I have to take a knife and scrape it off. The outgassing from CA is enough for me not to put it in the equation. As I said the voids of the braiding can cause air bubbles even if you pressure. I have eliminated that with the method I use. Now this is my method and some may use other methods and that is fine. If it works for you then continue. I am not telling anyone to do it my way. Just wanted to show a method to help the OP. Anchoring the braiding with the tie wraps has made things easier for me in that it helps take out the slack in the braiding and makes it lay flat. Some braiding come folded flat and that crease can be a pain to lay flat. To me this works. Also noted Silmar has no problems sticking to the a layer of itself. No seams showing or anything like that.
I think this is exactly what I need to try. With my current process, the blank comes out of the mold looking great, but if any pressure is put on the blank, while squaring, mounting on the lathe, or even assembly, I will get a separation of resin and fiber. I have to say, I have almost thrown a pen or two across the shop after this has happened, namely on a watch parts pen I made, where this happened during assembly.
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Old 04-08-2016, 12:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Hello Mike

Not sure yours is an easier way just another way of doing the same thing. Some people use CA to adhere the braiding to the tube but i find using the exact same resin does a few things. It binds the braiding to the tube and when I coat them it locks to that same resin and again I am trying to eliminate those nasty bubbles that can emerge from all those crevices.

But it is always good to have more than one option and there are always more than one way to do what we do.

Just a note for those working with carbon fiber braiding. Be aware of the health risks with the fibers and take precautions. Work safe.
John I have to agree that your method is a very good solution to braided metal sleeves, I will probably use it some time, but the OP question was about carbon fiber. I have to dis agree that my method is not easier. In your method you have to build a stand, either turn or find dowels to fit inside the tube, paint them and wax them. Work in ten minute burst to get the Similar on before it kicks over and turn each dowel until then so it doesn't drip. I can't see that is easier than threading tubes into a sleeve hanging a weight on the bottom and drizzling CA on it.

I have to prefess this by saying I use West Systems epoxy for casting, but I have never had any bubbles or delamination using this method.

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Old 04-08-2016, 02:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Mike

I will not argue with you. You have your method and works for you. To me mine is easier to me. I only had to make the rack once. I only had to buy and cut the rods once. They are colored fiberglass marker rods people use to mark their properties. The bag of tie wraps is about $2 As far as the resin goes I do 12 blanks in about 20 minutes and that includes turning them. Prep is the key. Have all the sleeves cut to length. i usually use 5 to 6 drops when casting but will use about 3 to 4 when doing this process. I will never CA any braiding to a tube. I do all kinds of materials. Carbon fiber of all sorts. Carbon fiber is just another braiding material. I do nylon braids the same way. Check my album. You have been here long enough I have shown plenty of my finished pens with all kinds of materials.

Now you brought up watch part blanks. That is another whole other process and has nothing to do with this.

If that method is easier for you then so be it but do not claim it is easier than mine if you never done mine and others can make their own judgement. That is all I am saying. Happy casting.
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Old 04-08-2016, 03:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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John thanks for sharing your tricks. Have you used PR to pre-coat labels or stamps before casting. I get inconsistent results with CA.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Thanks John T. Appreciate your answer. Once again thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-08-2016, 11:19 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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John thanks for sharing your tricks. Have you used PR to pre-coat labels or stamps before casting. I get inconsistent results with CA.

I have not made any stamp pens to date but that will change soon. I can tell you whenever I do labels, all I do is spray the label with a sealer and then cast in silmar and have had good success with it. No need to precoat in my opinion. The only time I use CA on labels is if I am placing a label on a wood blank that has been turned down already.
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Old 04-08-2016, 11:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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I must stress this point. There are many methods of doing what we do. Casting carbon fiber or even any braidings can be done many ways. I know of 2 other methods that are much more efficient than mine and one is from the master himself CaptG. He is the king of carbon fiber casting but i will not share this because it is not mine to share.

I am simply sharing my method and if there is something that may help others that is great. It is documented here about all the methods of casting labels and stamps also. I chose certain things and came up with my method and it works for me and yes it took some experimenting for sure. But my failure rate has been low. Do I still get that occasional mess, yes and will continue but that is how we learn.

Take care, work safe and have fun casting.
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