Band Saw or Table Saw for cutting blanks

[MRDucks2]

OK, another popular opinion question that has no right answer. Which do you prefer for cutting blanks from material already the proper thickness? Table saw or bandsaw? Same for both cast blanks and wood?

I have both and use both. Started on table saw but switched bandsaw. If I go back to table saw, which I like from finished edge perspective, I need to come up with a better throat plate arrangement.

Because of the throat issues on the table saw, the bandsaw gives me a more square blank and I like the thin kerf. But if I continue I feel I need a finer cut blade, especially for the cast blanks as the sides are quite rough with my present blade.

What are your thoughts?


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[jttheclockman]

OK, another popular opinion question that has no right answer. Which do you prefer for cutting blanks from material already the proper thickness? Table saw or bandsaw? Same for both cast blanks and wood?

I have both and use both. Started on table saw but switched bandsaw. If I go back to table saw, which I like from finished edge perspective, I need to come up with a better throat plate arrangement.

Because of the throat issues on the table saw, the bandsaw gives me a more square blank and I like the thin kerf. But if I continue I feel I need a finer cut blade, especially for the cast blanks as the sides are quite rough with my present blade.

What are your thoughts?


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There is a right answer if you ask the question right. How wide of a blank are you making???? How wide is the material you cutting the blanks from??? You will probably get more blanks with a bandsaw. What difference do the sides need to be you will put on a lathe and turn down???

Unless you are doing segmenting then you need to ask those questions. From what it sounds like you are not segmenting. Use whatever tool gets the most blanks from the material you are cutting. I have a full shop of tools and can use all or any.

Not sure about the comment in blue. Make a zero clearance throat p[late. very easy to do. Or they sell blanks already cut for your saw.

 

[PenPal]

Sounds like to me you want to impress ie prepare blanks for sale otherwise there is no acadamy award involved. I do all mine by Band Saw so I can chase the grain.

Then crunch time drilling the blanks you need a system that allows you to hold the blank squarely to the drill in spite of irregularities.

The rest is window dressing,there are no prizes for own use pen blanks.

I will look for pictures of a few drying in my roof space cut with a band saw.

Peter.

 

[PenPal]

First two pics in my roof space,box of five thousand packed for part of a shipping container to USA by my mate the Burl Getter just down the road,4th pic part of two thousand cut from tough dry Aussie Burl in my blank room. Sundry other blanks all cut on bandsaws by hand held. I do not turn so many these days,84 this yr.


Peter.

 

[greenacres2]

I use both, but mostly bandsaw. As JT suggested, for segmenting I normally use table saw-with 6" blade and zero clearance plate.
Earl

 

[TonyL]

For taking a block of wood and making 5 x 3/4 inch blanks, I like a bandsaw because of the thinner kerf, but I don't cut many blanks.

 

[wolf creek knives]

It depends on what I'm doing that determines what saw I'll use. For blanks it's 99% of the time my table saw and if I want to do any angle cuts I use the miter gauge and it seems to work well. There are all kinds of jigs and such that you can use with your table saw. I have different sized blades that fit my TS and I use a thin kerf blade that I forgot where I bought it. Still wider than the BS kerf. I use my band saw for rough rounding for bottle stoppers, re-sawing and a bunch of other stuff. Long winded statement to say that I use both saws for different applications.

 

[leehljp]

If I need one or two blanks cut or trimmed, I use the bandsaw - Unless I am squaring up for segmenting.

If I am cutting several, or segmenting, I use the table saw.

I know the frustration of the throat issues. Many people have several throat plates and some saws have a quick replacement setup. It sounds like this is your issue or point of frustration. My saw requires me to loosen and replace the throat plate with 3 screws; I don't mind if I am going to use the next throat plate for some time, but aggravating if I only need to make 1 or 2 cuts and then have to change it back.

Do a research (google search) on your particular saw and look for possibilities for creating quick change throat plates.

I can't remember what they are called - but there is a "tape like strip" that is about 1/50th inch thick (and fairly rigid) and goes over the throat plate. Raise the spinning blade through it and the you have a zero clearance throat plate. They come in packs of 3 or 4. Might be the solution to what you need.

Part two, a good sled that is quick to add to the top of the table saw will do what you want. Quicker than changing the throat plate, and it is zero clearance.

 

[GaryMGg]

I find a Zero Throat plate in the table saw affords me the opportunity to do everything I need.
I use a pair of long push sticks.

 

[MRDucks2]

Thanks for the reply's, Gang.

I am not into segmenting yet, maybe down the road.

JT- obviously want to get the most I can out of a given piece of wood. The math for that is simple this the reference to the thinner kerf of the bandsaw blade. Most of the blanks I buy tend to have better clarity on the sides than what I am presently achieving with a bandsaw.

I already my table saw before getting into pens. It would s the rigid fold-up contractor saw with a super thin thread plate that tends to flex slightly during the cut. Never noticed until I started cutting 3/4x3/4 pieces of wood. Hardboard is the right thickness and stiff, but still has some flex so I will need to make an insert with a rabbeted edge to gain rigidity.

Peter- great photos of all the blanks. You have been a busy octogenarian. What is the tooth pitch of the blade you use?

Earl & Tony - I am also drawn mostly to the bandsaw. That also happens to be the tool I grew up on as the only thing Dad had in the basement so I felt that could be part of it. I have always been of the camp that if I only had one stationary saw it would be a bandsaw.

I am fully employed and have several other projects so as I improve my processes I want to invest my time where I get the best results.

Thanks guys.



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[jttheclockman]

I still do not get the clarity statement you keep making. You will get a cleaner cut on a tablesaw because the blade is more rigid. But you can get a good quality cut with a bandsaw too if you use a good blade. If you are getting teeth marks on the side of the blank it could be wrong blade or the fence is out of alignment with the blade or feed rate is wrong or many other possible reasons. Also the tools need to be tuned properly to get max efficiency out of any tool. Working in a shop with machinery and tools requires knowledge beyond just taking a piece of wood and cutting. Sleds can be used on either tool to make cutting more exact. Making a throat plate can be made out of aluminum if you want rigidity and still needs to be thin. Not sure of the setup on that saw but I am sure there is a way to improve.

 

[Rifleman1776]

My vote is to the bandsaw. Thinner kerf, quieter than a TS, IMHO is safer. I believe handier to use.

 

[MRDucks2]

Clarity - clar·i·ty
ˈklerədē. noun
the quality of being clear

the quality of being easy to see or hear; sharpness of image or sound.

synonyms:sharpness, clearness, crispness, definition
"the clarity of the image"


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[Dehn0045]

Unfortunately there is not a band saw in my shop, I am hoping to that the bandsaw fairy (aka my wife) will someday make one appear. Until that time, my tablesaw does quite fine for most straight cuts that I need to make. That said, I really do think that a table saw is an excellent tool choice for a person with limited shop space or budget. I do a lot of random one-off projects, and the TS has been an extremely valuable tool, from installing hardwood floors to segmenting pen blanks.

 

[PenPal]

My bandsaw and the saw of my pro mate we both use three teeth to the inch.

The tooth pitch has never been a question needed for me. Detailed specs are never in my agenda.

Questions such as yours are open ended and like choosing your next motor car down to you being personally motivated.
Polls are notoriously as you said initially open ended with no right answer

Have fun..

Peter.

 

[jttheclockman]

Clarity - clar·i·ty
ˈklerədē. noun
the quality of being clear

the quality of being easy to see or hear; sharpness of image or sound.

synonyms:sharpness, clearness, crispness, definition
"the clarity of the image"


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Been woodworking for over 50 years and never heard that term or used it in this field. I still do not get what you mean but hope you find clarity in your life because I guess it won't come from me. Good luck

 

[PatrickR]

To the original question, If you have both, use what you prefer or feel is best for the job. Sometimes the loss of the kerf is of no consequence, the thinner kerf could just leave you with a useless piece. Sometimes you could gain another blank. The table saw will cut cleaner and truer but for unsegmented work it really doesn't matter at all. If I had a larger BS I'd use it more often but even the little one works well making blanks sometimes.

 

[greenacres2]

My 6" or 6.25" blade (5/8 arbor) in the 10" table saw is only about .030" or .035" difference from the bandsaw so it's rarely a consideration for stock loss.
Earl

 

[dogcatcher]

I think it depends on the quality of the bandsaw, a table saw is pretty easy to square up to the guides and to a sled. My sled on a 1938 Craftsman table saw is dead on, my neighbor bought a Harbor Freight table saw, same with his sled, perfect.

My bandsaw is a 1972 Craftsman 12", tuned it, and the sled is great, his bandsaw is a lot later model, about a 2010 Craftsman. We have tried to get it tuned up, built a sled, and it creates disasters. We both gave up on trying to get his bandsaw to work for segmenting.

 

[gtriever]

I no longer have a band saw, so for me, it's the table saw. I cut to width with the rip fence and cut to length with the crosscut sled.