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Old 12-18-2017, 07:48 AM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Fish30114 View Post
thank you Dan and Randy, that is good intel--I have a couple of sets of collets, one of them is still in the box, but I believe they are both MT-2 taper based sets....still plenty to think about!
If you have ER 32 collets, this works great https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-80MM-DI...4AAOSwPCFZqNFd

I almost never take mine off. For pen turning, I don't think you ever need to take it off.

If you go this route, you'll need a Straight Shank Dead Center from Rick Herrell. I got mine in 3/4" rather than 1/2". I have a complete set of metric e32 collets, and a lone 3/4" collet, so that was my reason over the 1/2".
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Old 12-18-2017, 09:23 AM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Psst Bob. If he gets a metal lathe he can make his own straight shank centre. ;)

Also if he opts for a bigger lathe the ER32 collet chucks available to fit decline to none. To venture there you have to start looking for a 5C chuck and they are spendy critters, as much as a small bench lathe.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:01 AM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Psst Bob. If he gets a metal lathe he can make his own straight shank centre. ;)
LOL, True, but for $12, seems like a no brainer.

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Also if he opts for a bigger lathe the ER32 collet chucks available to fit decline to none. To venture there you have to start looking for a 5C chuck and they are spendy critters, as much as a small bench lathe.
Psst Curly. If he gets a bigger lathe, he can make his own collet chuck. Granted, it's a much harder project, and he'd need a friend with a mill.

I have a friend who has a bigger PM lathe (13-40 I think). He posted something on one of the metal turning forums asking about collet checks. Someone offered to make him one for cost IIRC. He had it made for ER 50 collets (again IIRC). I'll see if I can find where he posted the info.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:07 AM   #24 (permalink)
 
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I understand why those with a wood lathe need a collet chuck, but why would someone with a metal lathe? Why not just use a 3 jaw chuck? If worried about runout, use a 4 jaw and a dial indicator.

Or does the collet allow chucking without marring the finish. If so I might be shipping for one too.

You could use a taper adapter to allow the smaller tooling on the larger lathe.

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Old 12-18-2017, 10:36 AM   #25 (permalink)
 
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Danny,

The major advantage of a collet chuck is that it allows you to remove a piece of work from the lathe and return it while keeping the same center.

This Old Tony on YouTube has a very good explanation of all of this. I would give you a direct link, but for some reason I can't access Youtube right now. The video has chucks in the title I believe.

You are collect that collets are much less likely to mar the finish. Basically an ER collet has a smooth, polished interior with a series of longitudinal slots.

Just make sure to order a chuck that bolts to the spindle, not a morse taper.

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Old 12-18-2017, 12:17 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Her's the link to the YouTube video I referenced earlier:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K67bZQSETiE

This guy is really a lot of fun to watch and keeps everything on a down to earth level.

Bill
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Old 01-15-2018, 09:21 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
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OK guys, at this point I have narrowed it down to the PM 1030V lathe, what I need some advice on is: what should I buy with it, currently I have selected the 1/2" boring turning tool kit, and need to know if there are other items with or instead of that I should get at the time of purchase--if I do in fact buy a metal lathe!
One other line of questioning, do you do any turning 'by hand' with a metal lathe, or do you always just dial in the machine and let it do the cutting?
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:19 PM   #28 (permalink)
 
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In my opinion you will want the convenience of a collet chuck and collets. So much easier than a 3 or 4 jaw chuck.

Mostly no need for turning by hand on the metal lathe. I played around with it until I learned how to cut angles on it for nose cones.
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:22 PM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Or does the collet allow chucking without marring the finish. If so I might be shipping for one too.
]
Danny, I find the collet chuck works really well for holding round and hex stock, as well as kinda round stuff like rebar (with a modified collet). The non-marring benefit sold me.

I do lots of drilling, so a collet closer pays for itself many times over. That would probably not be something that most people use as much.
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Old 01-15-2018, 04:20 PM   #30 (permalink)
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One of the benefits of a collet is that it has greater gripping power when you go to use a tap or die for forming threads. If you use the lathe for single point threading than its not quite as bad but I have know a piece to spin in place in a 3 jaw chuck while trying to cut threads, ruining the piece. IF your going to thread softer materials like plastics for inserts for cap threads, like Delrin, the collet wall keep the part uniform as the inside threads are cut, I have seen Delrin elongnate between the jaws of a 3 jaw chuck while cutting threads, you still get threading but it wont cut deep enough for the part to work.
With softer metals or thin walls you can make a plug out of brass to fit inside the part so that it doesnt capsize when you clamp down on it.
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