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Old 01-23-2018, 08:45 AM   #31 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Fish30114 View Post
Well guys, I've checked it every way since sliced bread. I put two dead centers in the headstock and tailstock and they meet dead on when I slide the tailstock up to the headstock, and also when I crank the tailstock quill out throughout it's entire range the points are still meeting the same.
It's a lot easier to get perfect head & tailstock alignment using the Nova Acruline -- and at less than $20 it's a cheap tool.

Simple to use: loosen the headstock clamping screw till you can rotate the headstock, loosen the 4 hex bolts on the plate under the tailstock. Extend the quill and tighten the locking screw. Slip one end of the Acruline into the headstock taper, slide the tailstock onto the other end, and push until it's tight. Lock down the headstock, lock down the hex bolts under the tailstock. Clamp the tailstock to the lathe bed, then retract the quill pulling it off the Acruline. Tap it out of the headstock with the knock-out bar.

I do this 4 or 5 minute exercise before starting any project that requires accurate drilling just in I knocked it out of alignment turning a bowl or such.
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Old 01-28-2018, 07:05 PM   #32 (permalink)
 
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Duncuss, I have the Accruline, and I have found a way that it works a charm, the issue with the approach you outlined, is that if you have all 4 bolts (hex head machine screws) loosened, there is nothing holding the adjustment you made to the tailstock whilst you slide it off the rails and tighten those bolts back up. I have found it is key to just loosen SLIGHTLY the screws that would be in the orientation that you want to move the tailstock in--i.e. if you need to move the tailstock up and to the left, then you would loosen, SLIGHTLY, the bolts at the front left and the the right rear.

This has worked a charm on my NOVA DVR XP
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Old 01-28-2018, 10:40 PM   #33 (permalink)
 
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This has worked a charm on my NOVA DVR XP
Excellent method for lathes that are bench-mounted; my 1624-44 is on legs, so I'm able to reach underneath and tighten those hex-head bolts while the tailstock is still attached to the headstock through the Acruline.
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:49 AM   #34 (permalink)
 
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Don't ask me why, but copper is really tricky to turn and drill ... stay away from it until you get expert advice, which I am not. . Copper seems to "grab" for me.

You should not have a problem with brass if you are careful and take light cuts, although brass can "grab" if you don't have the right shape and orientation of cutting tools.

To join the thread; Copper, bronze, and brass work better with a cutting tool (including drill bits).... Oh boy how to explain this??

The cutting tool should be a scrape cut, not a shearing cut. On drill bits you can put a flat on very edge of the cutting flutes. The flat should be parallel to axis of the drill bit. Take a look at this video. This works with copper too.
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:57 AM   #35 (permalink)
 
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it is certainlu possible that I have a misalignment--how would one go about figuring this out, and more importantly, how would one go about correcting this.
Don; Look in the Wiki for Lathe Alignment. This doesn't require a lot of tools and is good for checking the actual alignment of the lathe head stock and tail stock.
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