Pattern tracing attachment for my metal mini lathe - International Association of Penturners
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Pattern tracing attachment for my metal mini lathe

I've been toying with the idea of making a taper attachment for my lathe and then thought that a pattern tracer would be more versital. Here is my version made with materials i could find in my shop and the local Ace Hardware. I have spent about 7 hours figuring and fabricating and drilling the cast iron frame. If there is interest I will do a write up after testing it this weekend. To make it trace the pattern you remove the threaded block from the cross slide and push the crossmslide against the pattern. With the compound set parallel to the cross slide, you set the depth of cut using the compound. It allows the use of the power feed or manual feed. I may rig a spring to hold the cross slide against the pattern. I plan to bump my bit to the bushing and move the pattern to the tracer and clamp that side. Then move to the other bushing and repeat. Back to the first and adjust. Works with about 2 checks on each end quick and easy to index. I am still working on the clamps i will use for the pattern. Likely small c clamps. Let me know what you think.
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Last edited by More4dan; 06-07-2016 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Nice set up, instead of using clamps, I'd be inclined to cut/mill a 5/16" slot at each end, to allow for different length patterns, and bolt them down as it would be more secure. To remove the nut, do you just undo the 2 socket heads and leave it there? How do you plan to mount the spring?
I wouldn't mind reading your article on it, please.
Thanks for posting.
Kryn
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for showing. Very creative.
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Old 06-10-2016, 03:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBs Pensnmore View Post
Nice set up, instead of using clamps, I'd be inclined to cut/mill a 5/16" slot at each end, to allow for different length patterns, and bolt them down as it would be more secure. To remove the nut, do you just undo the 2 socket heads and leave it there? How do you plan to mount the spring?
I wouldn't mind reading your article on it, please.
Thanks for posting.
Kryn
To remove the cross slide nut, I crank it all the way inward, loosen the screws and remove it. I thought of just taking out the screws but feared being able to realign the threaded block to reattach it to the cross. I plan to put it through it's paces this weekend and make necessary tweaks. I'll write up how I did afterwards. Thanks for the interest and suggestions.

Danny
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Old 06-11-2016, 07:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Danny, I just remove the screws from the nut and put a couple of plugs in the holes to prevent ingress of swarf etc. when I go to setup my taper turning attachment.
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Old 06-11-2016, 09:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You could also cut your patterns out of Aluminum angle stock since you can find it with sharp inside corners rather than the rounded one in stock steel angle. That would allow you to clamp it on the side rather than the top. Or you could space 1/4 bolts on the side of the steel angle to hold the patterned Aluminum angle stock
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Old 06-11-2016, 08:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Danny, I just remove the screws from the nut and put a couple of plugs in the holes to prevent ingress of swarf etc. when I go to setup my taper turning attachment.
Kryn
Thanks I will try that. With the block removed, the handle flops around and can jam the compound slide. Maybe the block will hold it in place.

Testing done and after adding a stronger spring and 1" C clamps it works like a charm. First test was acrylic for a seam ripper and then the real test. Made an aluminum version after smoothing the pattern some.

Made a pattern for the Gatspy Kit in about 10 min. and turned one in about 10 more. I'm liking making curves again.

Danny
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Old 06-11-2016, 08:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBs Pensnmore View Post
Nice set up, instead of using clamps, I'd be inclined to cut/mill a 5/16" slot at each end, to allow for different length patterns, and bolt them down as it would be more secure. To remove the nut, do you just undo the 2 socket heads and leave it there? How do you plan to mount the spring?
I wouldn't mind reading your article on it, please.
Thanks for posting.
Kryn
C clamps were very solid and made it very easy to position the pattern. Once clamped on each end I could get it to budge short of smacking with a hammer.

To attach the spring I replaced the forward set screw on the cross saddle that doesn't do anything with a cap screw. Then added a cap screw to the compound where the plastic guard goes to deflect chips. One of the first things I removed. Always in the way.
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Nice! I built a bar for a cue maker some time ago for a full size lathe so he could do the taper in shafts. Same concept. Only difference is I put a bearing on it to run against the pattern. Probably overkill for the small lathe. Good work!
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Default Off set tail stock

You can buy a live off set tail stock adaptor !
https://www.cuesmith.com/off-setting...rse-taper.html

Three of my lathes the tail stock is adjustable from side to side, making conical tapering fairly easy .

For my pool cue shafts I have a taper bar (Compound taper )
But I also mounted a lathe on top of my CNC Router and cut the taper my cue shafts on my CNC .

Most of my cuts are long cuts, X axis and when I am tapering I use live a cutter.
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