Metal lathe trivia
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SteveG
Member
Replicate itself.
Where is my prize? :biggrin:
Where is my prize? :biggrin:
Artisan iron designs
Member
Build itself
Curly
Member
Offset the tailstock.
Use the compound.
Make a tool rest to fit the compound and turn as you would with a wood lathe with chisels.
Use the compound.
Make a tool rest to fit the compound and turn as you would with a wood lathe with chisels.
Artisan iron designs
Member
depending on your lathe and size of taper...
use the taper attachment and disconnect the cross slide nut or for a slight tapper offset the tailstock
Anglesachse
Member
Straight Taper... Sorry, sounds to me like a paradox. Can you clear me up on this?
The best method, for *short* tapers, is to lock the saddle and adjust the compound axial feed direction to give the desired angle.
Tool movement is by means of the axial compound screw. . To get good accuracy and a smooth cut you need the gibs to be properly adjusted.
To get an accurate taper angle using the tailstock offset method is difficult. . Good accuracy and fine adjustment can be achieved by mounting a boring head on the tailstock. . Tool movement is by the main axial feed. . Both of these "tailstock" methods require a universal drive coupler in the headstock because the workpiece axis does not align with the lathebed axis. . However the angle achievable is still small.
To do significantly large taper angles (or "long" tapers) still requires a taper bar.
(I offer these remarks tentatively and would appreciate feedback because I would like to learn to do long, "large" angle tapers.)
Tool movement is by means of the axial compound screw. . To get good accuracy and a smooth cut you need the gibs to be properly adjusted.
To get an accurate taper angle using the tailstock offset method is difficult. . Good accuracy and fine adjustment can be achieved by mounting a boring head on the tailstock. . Tool movement is by the main axial feed. . Both of these "tailstock" methods require a universal drive coupler in the headstock because the workpiece axis does not align with the lathebed axis. . However the angle achievable is still small.
To do significantly large taper angles (or "long" tapers) still requires a taper bar.
(I offer these remarks tentatively and would appreciate feedback because I would like to learn to do long, "large" angle tapers.)
Last edited:
I cheat
This will not work on steel .............
Poor boys way of tapering wood without a taper bar.
I am turning between centers , Dead center in the lathe spindle 4 jaw chuck
And a live center in the tail stock.
I bought a extra tail stock adjusted to 0.200 to one side .
Cutting 0.850 one end 1.250 on the other some times 30 inches in length.
Most tail stocks are not made to be adjusted to the side for tapering .
I use a Ridgid veneer trimmer mounted on the tool post using a router bit
or a 1/4 end mill bit in the router too.
You don't have to get the wood between centers super clamped down as in putting stress into the piece of wood , the veneer trimmers is doing ALL of the cutting and not the lathes rotation <<<<<<<<<<<<
I don't have a photo but you want the wood hitting the side of the cutter not the end for the smoothest cut .
You want to use the auto feed, for any reason you pause or stop the feed the cutter will leave a ghost mark in the wood and its impossible to get out without cutting more wood off.
The best is a taper bar , but they have these too.
https://www.cuesmith.com/off-setting-live-center-2-or-3-morse-taper.html
I am not tapering in this photo but shows basic set up .
My CNC is down right now , as soon as its up I will be using it to cut my tapers.
This will not work on steel .............
Poor boys way of tapering wood without a taper bar.
I am turning between centers , Dead center in the lathe spindle 4 jaw chuck
And a live center in the tail stock.
I bought a extra tail stock adjusted to 0.200 to one side .
Cutting 0.850 one end 1.250 on the other some times 30 inches in length.
Most tail stocks are not made to be adjusted to the side for tapering .
I use a Ridgid veneer trimmer mounted on the tool post using a router bit
or a 1/4 end mill bit in the router too.
You don't have to get the wood between centers super clamped down as in putting stress into the piece of wood , the veneer trimmers is doing ALL of the cutting and not the lathes rotation <<<<<<<<<<<<
I don't have a photo but you want the wood hitting the side of the cutter not the end for the smoothest cut .
You want to use the auto feed, for any reason you pause or stop the feed the cutter will leave a ghost mark in the wood and its impossible to get out without cutting more wood off.
The best is a taper bar , but they have these too.
https://www.cuesmith.com/off-setting-live-center-2-or-3-morse-taper.html
I am not tapering in this photo but shows basic set up .
My CNC is down right now , as soon as its up I will be using it to cut my tapers.
Last edited:
You are 100 % correct
I do mainly two maybe three tapers .
I use a compound taper on pool cue shafts 4 angles .
I the butt, its tapered and I refer to it as a straight taper which there is no such thing .
Third taper is a Parabolic and I am not sure if I can properly explain it .
I do mainly two maybe three tapers .
I use a compound taper on pool cue shafts 4 angles .
I the butt, its tapered and I refer to it as a straight taper which there is no such thing .
Third taper is a Parabolic and I am not sure if I can properly explain it .
duncsuss
Member
My understanding of it is this: you can put a straight-edge against the taper and there will be no gaps.
(In other words, the cut is a straight line that is not parallel to the lathe axis.)