Metal Lathe Trick - Drilling Square Blanks with 3-Jaw Chuck

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MattTheHat

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I like to drill pen blanks on the lathe. In fact, it's a necessity for me right now as my mill is down. I stumbled on this trick a few weeks ago and have been using it with great results. This trick is probably well know, but in case it's not, I thought I would share.

The problem, of course, is trying to center up a square blank in a 3-jaw chuck. The solution, as it turns out is very convenient, as long as you have a belt sander handy (mine is a cheap Ryobi bench-top model). In short, all you have to do it grind any one corner flat, along the length of the blank. You want it to be a smidge wider than a third of the average pen blank width. In the examples below, we have a 3/4" blank. I ground the corner to about 5/16" wide.

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The actual width of the grind isn't too critical, but you do want the width approximately the same on each end. This material is pretty hard, it took about 25 seconds to grind the flat. Most acrylics take about 15 seconds. If you put too much pressure on one end and the flat is wider, just place it back down on the sander with a bit more pressure on the opposite end. Just eyeball it. When you chuck it up, place the ground flat square against any one of the 3 jaws and tighten it up.

How well-centered is the resulting hole? In the following two pics I marked the center of the blank on each end and just touched it with a brad-point bit to show where the hole would be centered. You can see my grind must have been slightly angled as the center point is slightly different on each end. But it's certainly close enough.

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I hope at least someone else find this useful.


-Matt
 

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Penultimate

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Another trick used by machinists is to use a thin cylinder with a longitudinal slot that is close to the diagonal measurement. Slip it over the blank chuck up on the ring and tighten the chuck. My 3 jaw is too small to fit the ring so I got a 4 jaw chuck.

Mike
 

skiprat

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Yep , a 4 jaw chuck is probably easiest. But to be honest, I dont use my 4 jaw very often.

My prefered method now, but only if there is a risk that the blank may be too small if turned off centre, is to centre drill the ends in the drill press first. Then turn it till it's just round and only then do the drilling for the tube.

Another trick I use is to use a strip of plastic of about 2mm thick between the bottom jaw and one flat of the blank. It's surprisingly accurate. I think I've shown pics of blanks held in a 3 jaw here a few times..

Yours is a neat trick too. I'm sure there are several others that are used.
 

farmer

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4 jaw chuck

I have two lathes that have 4 jaw chucks on them with a big spindle bore
( 1 3/8 )
Large bore headstock
You have no idea how nice a large spindle bore is until you used a lathe that has one.
But I prefer to cut my squares, round between centers with a live cutter.
 

JD Combs Sr

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I have two lathes that have 4 jaw chucks on them with a big spindle bore ( 1 3/8 ) Large bore headstock
You have no idea how nice a large spindle bore is until you used a lathe that has one.
But I prefer to cut my squares, round between centers with a live cutter.
Dang Farmer, I was expecting to see some large engine lathe of some sort, my expectations didn't even come close.:wink:
 

More4dan

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Great hint. I've done this twice today and it works perfectly. I only found the corner off about an inch of the blank. Works like a charm. Many Thanks.
 

mredburn

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I made a mandrel that is threaded for my 4 jaw chuck that I mount that in my 3 jaw chuck. I turn it just round enough to fit in a collet chuck and drill it from there.
 

skiprat

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Mike, is your 4 jaw chuck independent or scroll? If it's a scroll, then why not just leave it fitted?
Will your mandrel fit in one of your collets? If so, it would eliminate any error from the three jaw chuck. .

I have a 550mm length bed but think that a 3 jaw plus a 4 jaw plus a drill chuck with drill in the tailstock would soon use up the space.

I would permanently mount my 4 jaw scroll, but I lost the backing faceplate....or maybe I used it to mount my collet chuck.....
My memory is shot...:frown:
 

mredburn

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I have a 6 inch 1 1/2 bore Adjust tru type 3 jaw chuck dialed in under .001 Made by Atlas on my lathe. I have both scroll and independent 4 jaw chucks on mandrels. I actually have 5 additional chucks set up on mandrels as well as the collet chuck. When turning the square stock to round I leave it over sized, drill the center and then mount it using the drilled center and turn it from there. I do my precise turning either on the 3 jaw or the collet chuck clamped in the 3 jaw. Im still under .003 oor doing that.
a couple of my chucks mounted on the mandrells have aluminum Jaws. (Taig brand)
I cut them to specifically hold the clip rings I make just to face them for thickness. I can face a ring down to .6mm if I need to. Those are not used to do precise turnings just facing.
 

skiprat

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Hey Mike, Just so you know, I wasn't calling you out. :wink:
I have way too much respect for you, to ever do that.:wink:

I just realised as well.....if a mandrel was made in any chuck, even if it was an inch out, then it would of course still run true when replaced back in the same chuck. Like I said....my memory is stuffed...:rolleyes:
 

mredburn

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Here are a couple of pictures of the set up, at the moment its being used to drill a hole through a 4 way pipe fittings to be used for running wires in a project. Notice the 14 inch extension on the splash shield. Thats used for applying pressure on parts I have to mount and cut towards the tailstock.
MY lathe is 12 x36 or 304x914

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mredburn

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Not a problem at all Skip, I didnt take it that way at all, plus others may want to know and this may help them or give them some Ideas.
 
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