Which lathe to pick

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Texatdurango

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There are plenty of members out there who are looking at lathes trying to figure out what to buy and with the variety and types of machines available; it's really a mind boggling, often gut wrenching process and by no means an easy one-step shopping decision.

With helping those members in mind, I think it might be beneficial if those of us who already have metal lathes would share a few things about them, both the good and the bad along with a few things we have learned along the way. Something a bit more meaningful than…. "I would recommend a 7 x 12" or "Go with brand xxx", so, I'll start………

Two years ago I decided on a Grizzly 9 x 19 lathe based mostly on what I could glean from manufacturers websites, and those aren't always the best sources, sort of like asking a car salesman who carries the best car! Basically I like the machine, it has done everything I needed it to do so far but that is because I realize its limitations when I am planning a task.

Likes….
Bed Capacity…. For pen making, I like the idea of being able to chuck a 6" long, 3/4" blank into a collet chuck then chuck a drill bit (either jobber length or screw machine length) into a Jacobs or tool free drill chuck and not worry about having enough room to work. The photo below shows this setup with room to spare (I call it elbow room)

Ease of use…. Once I learned to read the 30 page manual that came with it THEN re-read it again, I found that everything was straight forward and easy to use. I also learned that THREADING, while easy now, was NOT easy at first, either to understand or initiate.

Threading…. If you plan on doing a lot of threading, make sure the machine you choose can cut the threads you will be using a lot! Having a machine that will "Cut 8 metric threads" is meaningless unless you know what pitches they are. This lathe cuts what I use a lot! Check out the photo below, notice in the mm section, I can cut .5mm, .7mm, .7.mm, .8mm, and 1mm pitches which are all pitches you will use when making pens and other fine threaded items.

Dislikes….
Tool availability…. Having a small lathe (Yes, the 9 x 19 is considered a small or "hobby" lathe) I learned that most tool companies like Shars, Enco, McMaster, etc do not carry a lot of tools for the smaller lathes. I found a nice "quick change tool post" then found that the only place I could order extra tool holders to fit my tool post was from that same company since most lathes use much larger tool posts and tool holders. I have a ½" maximum tool holding capacity and you'll find that most tool holders are ¾" and larger.

Tailstock…. In the tailstock photo below you will see a wrench left on the tensioning nut. I loved the idea of moving the tailstock on my wood lathes then pressing a lever to tighten them. With this lathe I have to loosen then re-tighten the nut every time I want to move the tailstock… It's a real pain!

Controls…. The nut on my crosslide handle is responsible for removing more skin that all other parts of the lathe combined. I'm sure better quality machines have better handles!

Threading…. In order to change from one metric pitch to another I need to remove the side panel, remove a particular gear and replace it with another gear then clean the grease off my hands before continuing. My next lathe will accomplish this by moving dials on the front of the lathe not greasy gears.

Wrapping it up, my lathe would be an adequate choice if one were on a budget if you can put up with the little annoyances and aren't in a big hurry to do some small tasks It takes up little more bench space than my Jet mini lathe and is light enough not to require a really stout bench.

Feel free to ask anything about my lathe or the tools that I use with it.

Anyone else care to share their experiences and a few details they find unique with their machines?
 

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OKLAHOMAN

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George, whats the foot print , of the 9x19?
Hell after posting I thought Dummy go to the Grizzly site, sorry.
 
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BRobbins629

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At the recommendation of another member, I went with the Cummins 7 x 12. I've used it for almost all my pens and have said many times I don't think I've seen a pen posted here that could not be turned on this lathe, and that includes multistart threading. I've hooked up dremel tools, an indexing plate, drilled blanks, etc. There have been a few times for other projects where I would have liked a little more swing or longer bed, but I have always gotten by. I would hesitate to go smaller as that might limit some of things I like to do such as drilling on the lathe.

Mine has kept me going for over 4 years and probably still has much of its value. Its not a heavy duty piece of equipment, yet can do quite a lot. I had very little experience with metal lathes before buying. I felt that with smaller machine, I was less likely to damage it or myself. In addition, my shop has limited space and I could lift this one up without a crane. If you are considering buying one a metal lathe, check out the weight and think how you will get it in your shop

A good analogy would be comparing the mini wood lathes to a Powermatic or Oneway. Sure, the big ones are nice, but if all you're going to make is pens, they're not necessary, are a lot more money and take up a lot more space.

So if cost, space and limited experience are in the picture and you still want a metal lathe, just about any of the 7 x 12s or 7 x 14s will be a great start with something that will hold its value. I still dream of a Southbend 8K or 10K, but in the meantime, I feel my investment has more than paid off in fun.
 

Texatdurango

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George, whats the foot print , of the 9x19?
Hell after posting I thought Dummy go to the Grizzly site, sorry.

Whatever they say the footprint is, keep in mind a few things.....

I have mine sitting on one of those old craftsman workbenches with a top that measures 20"x50" and it needs all that and here's why....... Looking at the tailstock you will see the handwheel sticks out beyond the "footprint" by almost 5" (not that you will likely ever have it out that far) and the door on the left side needs to open to get to the gears for maintenance and changing gears. I also leave the left side all the way open in case I have a 3' rod I want to stick through the spindle. The 20"x50" space is ideal for me.

A few more pics that might interest you........

I rolled the tailstock all the way out to show the handwheel protruding, I've never had it that far but you never know! :)

1_lathe_footprint.jpg


Here is a tool rest I bought which allows you to use typical wood turning tools. Not the stoutest tool in the world but it works! Here I have a 6" blank mounted between centers. Other than playing with it when I got it, about the only time I use this tool rest is when I finish turning the pen to diameter then I switch to this for the final shaping and tapering.

Notice the length between centers, this is THE main reason of choosing this lathe over the 7 x xx machines..... elbow room!:biggrin:
1_lathe_turning_idea.jpg
 

BKelley

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George,

The Grizzly 9x19 is a nice little lathe. I had a Jet 9x20 with cabinetr and just plain didn't have floor space for it. Sold it to a buddy of mine for $400 with the understanding I could use it any time. I purchased a little table top Grizzly 7x10 and it will do pens fine. With a little tuning it is fairly accurate. I bought a QCTP and knurling tool from Little Machine Shop. I use both carbide and HSS tools on arcylics and HSS on wood. I have purchased enough aluminum to turn some hand wheels and plan on getting a 7x14 feed screw and use it with a hand wheel at the tail stock end on bed. It won't do everything my old big LeBlond would do, but I am happy with it for pen turning. Biggest thing I miss is automatic crossfeed. If I can help anyway let me know.

Ben
 

PenMan1

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George;
Thanks for starting such a meaningful and thought provoking thread. I am at about the same place as Roy and as a shopper that will soon be buying a metal lathe,this thread has already been useful.
 

mredburn

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I have the Sherline Brand Lathes. I started with a Taig lathe many many years ago but it was inadequate to my needs. They have no control on depth of drilling on the machine the way its built. It can be adapted but I dont have time to mess with it.

I have 2 of the 24 in long 4400 model Lathe and a shorter bed that I am working on making cnc. The 24 inch bed has 17 inches of working space. I have it mounted on a 36 in wide kitchen cabinet on wheels. Pictured is my main working lathe. I have a piece of Plexiglas that pivots so when I cut sterling silver it helps bounce the chips back into the work area where I can reclaim it. I have adapted it to have the QCTP mounted on the compound angle accessories full time. They do not come like that. Its my own doings. The QCTP can be bought from A2Z. I use the Sherline because I can take the workpiece in the chuck and mount it on the cnc mill by transferring the chuck from the lathe to the mill. You can see I have a flex shaft mounted on the end and most of my tool holders for the QCTP are hung around the top lip. I use the other 4400 lathe for threading when I need to do that. The Sherline threading set up lacks quite a bit. You have to change gears, It will do metric and imperial but if you add the spacers that I have to raise the headstock and tail stock it is a chore to mount them. SO my answer was a second lathe dedicated to threading . I also mount the second lathe right on my cnc mill I built and use it for other things as well.
I have added a DRO unit to the lathe.

PROS

Even though there is a power feed for the lathe its not necessary. The hand wheel on the end has enough control that its easy to get a good finish by hand. The feed screw is 20tpi.

Parts. Sherline makes their lathes and accessories in the USA. Part are readily available as well as plenty of after market Parts. Lots of parts.

Variable speed motor. Turn the dial and the rpm goes from around 70 to 2800.

3 jaw and 4 jaw scrolling jaw chucks in 2 sizes. Plus the 4 jaw independent chuck.

After you set up the threading there is great control over the threading process. You turn the spindle with a crank that drives the gears locked into the lead screw. As long as it doesn't jump gears the tool and work piece are locked together for threading.

They hold their value quite well

Cons

The head stock has a very small through hole. basically 3/8.

The headstock has a 1 Morse taper

The tail stock has a 0 Morse taper. I do drill up to 1/2 an inch on the lathe but it doesn't like me when I do.

In order to thread you have an arm that has to be out of the way when your turning. There is a bit of a fuss to thread when you have the spacers to raise the tail stock and headstock installed. The tail stock is not the best for this work. You can see the extension I have behind the live center.

0 Morse taper in the tail stock places a lot of limits on you.
The tail stock lock for the spindle is almost useless. It will back off under vibration.

lathe%252520bench.JPG


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sherline%252520lathe%252520gears.JPG

Although I really like my Sherline's for most of what we do. It makes very small parts very well. You just cant take large cuts with it they way I have it set up. That is not a problem with the way I use the lathe. I added the picture of the gears on the end of the lathe that I have set up on my mill. I move the cross slide all the way to the headsock to use the 4th axis rotary table when I need to use that. Or I slide the ratary table out of the way when I need to thread.

I can not recommend this lathe as a pen lathe or for beginning turners. The threading gear set up issue, the weak tail stock design, They are more expensive. Leads me to believe there are better answers for our needs.

comments and question welcome
 
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Joined
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My 2 cents is that with the 7X lathes they need some tweaking to work up to there full potential, I am curious if the 9X lathes work fine out of the box, I hope to see peoples experience with these machines, and what problems if any they encountered, I have no experience with the 7X or 9X lathes, I have a 9" Logan that has it own issues, I often wonder if I should get a newer lathe, metric threading would be nice, older lathes can cut metric threads but it is not easy.
 

randyrls

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Two years ago I decided on a Grizzly 9 x 19 lathe based mostly on what I could glean from manufacturers websites, and those aren't always the best sources, sort of like asking a car salesman who carries the best car! Basically I like the machine, it has done everything I needed it to do so far but that is because I realize its limitations when I am planning a task.

George; I would STRONGLY recommend any one interested in the 9x19 (most often referred to as a 9x20) lathe to join YAHOO Group "9x20Lathe". The Files section there has a wealth of information on this lathe. There are modification guides and add-on capabilities. There are many brands of this lathe. Most of the lathes and parts are identical, but there are MINOR differences in the exact parts list. You MAY even find some differences in the lathes purchased from the same source!!

Tailstock…. In the tailstock photo below you will see a wrench left on the tensioning nut. I loved the idea of moving the tailstock on my wood lathes then pressing a lever to tighten them. With this lathe I have to loosen then re-tighten the nut every time I want to move the tailstock… It's a real pain!
There are several designs for a tail stock cam lock lever; very easy and most of the designs can be made on the lathe itself!
Threading…. In order to change from one metric pitch to another I need to remove the side panel, remove a particular gear and replace it with another gear then clean the grease off my hands before continuing. My next lathe will accomplish this by moving dials on the front of the lathe not greasy gears.
I made a mod to my lathe for the threading setup. I replaced the shaft and the e-clip on the upper threading gear with a slide clip. Much easier to change the gear ratios. Still greasy though.. :frown:
http://www.coleman-family.org/Files/Retaining_Clip_Mod.pdf

Anyone getting a metal lathe, GET AN EXTRA SET OF BELTS!!! If your lathe has a plastic sacrificial gear, get an extra gear!!!
 
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BRobbins629

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I've been thinking all day about this lathe, http://littlemachineshop.com/info/4100
and after George's posting on his and the room I have it's really starting to look good.
Anybody have one?
That's essentially what I have - a different paint color, but made in the same factory. Grizzley also sells for a little less. You could also use a few accessories. The most often I use are:
Quick change tool post
#3 morse taper collet holder (and collets if you already don't have)
Drill chuck with 2 morse taper
Some 5/16 tool blanks (from USE-Enco) about $1 or less each (learn to grind them for general and special cuts)
Bench grinder for above
Also get some brass stock for making mandrels.
Mobil 1 oil for lubricating parts
Lithium grease for lubricating other parts.
 

JerrySambrook

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I've been thinking all day about this lathe, http://littlemachineshop.com/info/4100
and after George's posting on his and the room I have it's really starting to look good.
Anybody have one?

Roy,
I have been using one of these for a few years now on and off.
holmqer had bought it, and when he goes away during the winter I steal it.
It is an excellent machine. Once it is set up properly it stays in tune very nice.
I also have a 7X12 Grizzly that Neil gave to me, and it does not want to stay tuned up good enough for me.

Jerry
 

moke

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Thank you George for intiating this thread. This is great information. Above what is mentioned I have a couple questions. Space is an issue with me.

Is it advisable to have this lathe higher in height than our wood lathes? I have a very nice cabinet, but it is 39".

Are any of the used Atlas-craftsman lathes worth owning? There appears to be many on CL. Another words is older bad?

Lastly, if I did decide to spend more, are you saying George, that you would not purchase your lathe again? If not, what would you buy?

Thanks again to all that are contributing advice. It looks like the learning curve starts again.
 
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Love this thread. Also wondering about the Craftsman/Atlas lathes, there seem to be a lot of them around. Do they work well and can you still get accessories for them? Granted most of them are the size of a small horse. Also the HF metal lathes, Never had any luck with there power tools. Are they worth looking at? I'm cheap but would but I still like good value. I would like to get it right the first time.
 

Texatdurango

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Thank you George for intiating this thread. This is great information. Above what is mentioned I have a couple questions. Space is an issue with me.

Is it advisable to have this lathe higher in height than our wood lathes? I have a very nice cabinet, but it is 39".

Are any of the used Atlas-craftsman lathes worth owning? There appears to be many on CL. Another words is older bad?

Lastly, if I did decide to spend more, are you saying George, that you would not purchase your lathe again? If not, what would you buy?

Thanks again to all that are contributing advice. It looks like the learning curve starts again.

Michael, These are just my opinions so take them at face value.....

First, the height issue. To me the driving reason the wood lathe should be at a certain height is the way you hold the tools on the tool rest. So a six year old would have his/her wood lathe set up at a much lower height than an adult. A metal lathe however is different in that you don't stand there holding a skew on a tool rest, you basically just operate the knobs and wheels. Currently the tabletops of the Sears workbenches I have in my shop are 33" tall BUT... Since I'm 6'3 I made 4" risers for all my benches making them 37" tall. I could easily operate my lathe sitting on a 39" table and actually one day when I have time I might make me some taller riser blocks!

If I knew then what I know now about metal lathes AND my interest in CNC machines, I would have gone the CNC route then BUT.... That's another whole story and for what I do now I am happy with mine, greasy gears and all! One point I tried to convey was that I bought my lathe basically "in the blind" since I knew nothing about crossfeed travel, the importance of chuck capacity, etc. Hopefully NOW we can hash out a lot of these things BEFORE members place their orders.

Would I recommend mine for making pens, making small tools, sliver centerbands and accent rings, etc ... You betcha! Some of the machines I am looking into are the "Prazi" CNC machines which besides being top of the line equipment, they are aimed at lightening ones pocketbook in short order!:)
 
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dogcatcher

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Love this thread. Also wondering about the Craftsman/Atlas lathes, there seem to be a lot of them around. Do they work well and can you still get accessories for them? Granted most of them are the size of a small horse. Also the HF metal lathes, Never had any luck with there power tools. Are they worth looking at? I'm cheap but would but I still like good value. I would like to get it right the first time.

I have one, the Atlas 6x18, it is a later model, made in 1972. It is a lot better quality than the Chinese 7x12 I have. I bought it used, and it had a ton of accessories with it, some of which I have never used, and probably never will. It is not that much bigger than the 7x12, I have it sitting on a Craftsman cabinet just like the one George has, and I have space to stack junk around it.

The older ones can have problems with the ways being worn up close to the headstock. Parts are expensive, but available through Clausing and I think also Sears.
 

bitshird

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I've been thinking all day about this lathe, http://littlemachineshop.com/info/4100
and after George's posting on his and the room I have it's really starting to look good.
Anybody have one?

Roy that's a pretty decent little lathe, we have an older Jet 920 which is nearly identical to the Grizzly 9x19 and it's been a work horse, it's nearly 15 years old. But I dont like the belt drive on it, , I think the little Sieg S2 class lathes are good value for the money, but I want to get a little Taig to play with, besides I can CNC one for about 100 bucks, since I have a bunch of steppers and I think I can make my own motor mounts. Can for the Jet too, just have to buy some bigger stepper motors, and it is possible to make a lever action for the tailstock, I made one for my Jet but Andrew broke it.
 

Haynie

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Just remember, no matter what you get give yourself access, as Texatduarngo said, to both the left and right side of your lathe. I made the mistake of setting mine too close to a bench. This has made it really difficult to change speeds because I have to reach over a table. My father-in-law built a bench for the Enco I use. It is out of plate steel and the SOB needs a forklift to move it. Thank god I have one. That being said I have found that both my Jet 1014 and the enco need more space than their foot prints to work with easily without feeling confined. Both will be moved.
 

moke

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George..
Thanks again for your expertise and recommendations. I still need to work through some space issues. I have the typical three stall garage and one stall is for my tool storage. I been way too prolific of late and space is an issue. I have been looking at metal lathes and doing some planning...your Grizzly is one I am looking at.
 
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EarlD

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Albany, GA
I recently bought a MicroMark 7x16 and am so far very pleased with it. I'm doing all of my drilling on it. I've turned straight blanks (same size on both ends) down to finished size and then used micromesh from 3200 up.

Tex, where did you find the tool rest? I've looked around but must have overlooked it somewhere.

BRobbins, are you using brass for mandrels or bushings. I'd thought about brass bushings but wondered if sanding with them would result in brass in the grain of wood. If you're making mandrels, please elaborate, and show us some pictures.

EarlD
 

Paul in OKC

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Roddesigner (John) sent me this link and I found it very intresting, as most lathes of the same size have the close to the same features you to might get a better idea of size vs brand. Thanks John:

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Default.htm

Been away from the little machine forums for a while, forgot about this one. Good one for several of the small machines from what I remember.
 

BigShed

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Adelaide, SA, Australia.
Like George, I have a 9x20 metal lathe and am very happy with it.

Mine is a little different to George's lathe in that it has EVS and also has a camlock on the tailstock, wouldn't be without either!

Mine worked fine out of the box but over time I have made some changes and additions.

One of my first additions was an AXA size Quick Change Tool Post, or QCTP for short. This allows your tools to be pre-set to the correct cutting height and when you change a tool you don't have to fiddle with shims etc to get the correct cutting height. Most of my tools are 3/8" or smaller and I hve nver had any problems getting tools of this size. Some of the companies I have bought these from are CDCO and Little Machine Shop.
CTC Tools on Ebay is another good source, he also has his own website.

I use both carbide insert and HSS tooling, my preference for a good surface finish being HSS, but it takes a little while to get your grinding skills up to scratch, as it does for woodturning.

I have also added a backplate mounted collet chuck, so I can feed bar stock through the collets, have also added a tailstock turret which allows me to do various drilling operations without having to change drills for each step.

The best addition however has been the addition of a DRO with glass scales allowing accurate machining without having to check with calipers all the time.

There is a wealth of information on these 9x20 lathes on the internet, one good start is the Yahoo 9x20Lathe group, another is Steve Bedairs site.

There are some good books in the Workshop Practice Series on the various facets of metal work and these are well priced.

Also heaps of Youtube videos.

There is a learning curve with these metal lathes, as there is with most things, but the end result is very rewarding.

Just look at the last few pens made by dalecamino (Chuck Hutchings) and see what a relative beginner can achieve with a metal lathe.
 

BRobbins629

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BRobbins, are you using brass for mandrels or bushings. I'd thought about brass bushings but wondered if sanding with them would result in brass in the grain of wood. If you're making mandrels, please elaborate, and show us some pictures.

EarlD
I generally use what ever I happen to have lying around. Can be wood, brass, aluminum, steel, corian, etc. Here are a few of the mandrels and bushings I commonly use..
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From left to right
1 - jam fit for metal centerbands used to form outside
2 - 1/4-20 female thread for holding finials
3 - M10 x 1 internal thread for making sections
4 - M10 x 1 external thread for holding bottom barrels tapped for section
5 - Triple start thread for holding tapped caps - Had to make this in 2 pieces, connected them and turned the bottome true to the top. Have a similar one for the bottom barrels with a M10x1 if I don;t use #4.

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Plain mandrels to match the inside diameter of some common kitless sizes I make.
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O-ring pin chuck based on Skiprat article in library.
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Delrin bushings

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A foredom tool holder. Drilled the larger hole on the lathe with the piece of aluminum stock bolted to the face plate. Didn't have a large drill bit, so I drilled a smaller hole and used a boring bit to enlarge to correct diameter.
 

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txbob

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The Taig lathe

Anyone searching the net for info on metal lathes will eventually find the Taig lathe. I've had one for several years and enjoy it a lot. I needed a small lathe, and it's been fine.

I would _NOT_ recommend it as a good choice for most folks. It's very small, good for pen blanks and bushings and things that size. It's very limited by its small size, and most users will eventually want a larger machine. I know I plan to add something bigger.

The Taig is very well built, very accurate, easy to use, amd made in the USA. But it's just too small. I think the same can be said for the Sherline lathes, although I don't have any personal experience with a Sherline.

YMMV,
Bob
 

Justturnin

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I am confused here. Am I understanding this correctly that you guys/gals are turning your pens on metal lathes? No wonder. I have sat here trying to get my lines as straight but on a wood lathe with gouges an skews.
 

Timebandit

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Austin,TX
I am confused here. Am I understanding this correctly that you guys/gals are turning your pens on metal lathes? No wonder. I have sat here trying to get my lines as straight but on a wood lathe with gouges an skews.

Chris,

Some do. I dont. I turn every pen i make, Kitless or not, On my Jet 1014 with 1 woodturning tool, a Woodchuck Penpro. You do not need to buy a metal lathe to make wonderful pens. A metal lathe i just a different lathe and a different aspect of pen turning. Please do not think that you need to spend another $500 and up just to turn great pens. This is sort of advanced pen turning. If you are having trouble with a wood lathe, you will be lost on the metal late. Just take your time and practice.:biggrin:

This is also for anyone else out there who thinks that all of these people who make these great looking pens are doing it BECAUSE they have a metal lathe. Nope. They are just doing it WITH a metal lathe. Anything you see any of these people doing on there metal lathes i can do on my wood lathe. Just takes some practice.
 
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lorbay

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Jul 2, 2009
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BC. Canada
I am confused here. Am I understanding this correctly that you guys/gals are turning your pens on metal lathes? No wonder. I have sat here trying to get my lines as straight but on a wood lathe with gouges an skews.
Chris you could always buy a Palmgren X, Y axis vise that will bolt to the bed of your lathe.

Lin.
 

Dalecamino

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Jan 2, 2008
Messages
14,572
Location
Indianapolis, In.
Thanks for mentioning my name Fred! :biggrin: Just shows if I can operate a metal lathe, it can't be that difficult. As it has been mentioned more than once.....This ain't rocket science.

When I was introduced to a metal lathe by Mike Roux, I decided I should look for my own and, found one. A MicroMark MicroLux Tru-inch 7 X 14 Although I can work with the 14, I would prefer the extra 2 inches 0f the 16 inch. My lathe was used but, is in pretty good condition. Thanks to Mike Roux for checking it out for me and, teaching me several things about it.
 

EarlD

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Messages
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Albany, GA
Thanks so much for the pictures and explanations! I've just scratched the surface of what can be done on these lathes.
Earl
 

Timebandit

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Sep 25, 2010
Messages
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Location
Austin,TX
Ok guys. Here are a few more to look over. Never heard of the brand., but the machines look great and the price is amazing. I know at least one of these will be to big for most people, but the price of it is amazing. All are under $2000 before tooling

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...hines/metal-lathes/10x-15-3-4-bench-lathe.php

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...etal-lathes/12-x-24-gear-head-bench-lathe.php

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...ead-metal-lathe-with-stand-coolant-system.php
 
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glycerine

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Joined
Aug 7, 2009
Messages
3,462
Location
Fayetteville, NC
I am confused here. Am I understanding this correctly that you guys/gals are turning your pens on metal lathes? No wonder. I have sat here trying to get my lines as straight but on a wood lathe with gouges an skews.

Chris,

Some do. I dont. I turn every pen i make, Kitless or not, On my Jet 1014 with 1 woodturning tool, a Woodchuck Penpro. You do not need to buy a metal lathe to make wonderful pens. A metal lathe i just a different lathe and a different aspect of pen turning. Please do not think that you need to spend another $500 and up just to turn great pens. This is sort of advanced pen turning. If you are having trouble with a wood lathe, you will be lost on the metal late. Just take your time and practice.:biggrin:

This is also for anyone else out there who thinks that all of these people who make these great looking pens are doing it BECAUSE they have a metal lathe. Nope. They are just doing it WITH a metal lathe. Anything you see any of these people doing on there metal lathes i can do on my wood lathe. Just takes some practice.

This is the metal lathe forum, get that crap out of here!! :wink:
 

glycerine

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Joined
Aug 7, 2009
Messages
3,462
Location
Fayetteville, NC
Ok guys. Here are a few more to look over. Never heard of the brand., but the machines look great and the price is amazing. I know at least one of these will be to big for most people, but the price of it is amazing. All are under $2000 before tooling

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...hines/metal-lathes/10x-15-3-4-bench-lathe.php

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...etal-lathes/12-x-24-gear-head-bench-lathe.php

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...ead-metal-lathe-with-stand-coolant-system.php

Ok, you've redeemed yourself.
 

Timebandit

Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
1,446
Location
Austin,TX
Ok guys. Here are a few more to look over. Never heard of the brand., but the machines look great and the price is amazing. I know at least one of these will be to big for most people, but the price of it is amazing. All are under $2000 before tooling

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...hines/metal-lathes/10x-15-3-4-bench-lathe.php

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...etal-lathes/12-x-24-gear-head-bench-lathe.php

http://www.boltonhardware.com/categ...ead-metal-lathe-with-stand-coolant-system.php

Ok, you've redeemed yourself.

Hey i still want one, but not because i think that thats the way everyone else makes there pens, like the remark i was quoting, and think that i now have to buy one. I just wanted him to realize that all of this can be done on a wood lathe.

I have been looking at one for over 6 months now, and started a thread way before the metal lathe forum was started. I want one because i am interested in doing multi-start threading on it, and getting away from the taps and dies.
 

glycerine

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Messages
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Fayetteville, NC
Hey i still want one, but not because i think that thats the way everyone else makes there pens, like the remark i was quoting, and think that i now have to buy one. I just wanted him to realize that all of this can be done on a wood lathe.

I have been looking at one for over 6 months now, and started a thread way before the metal lathe forum was started. I want one because i am interested in doing multi-start threading on it, and getting away from the taps and dies.

Yeah, me too. And on that note, considering threading only, I would assume that a CNC would be "easier" than swapping out change gears, right? At least once you get it programmed? I know threading can be done with taps and dies, but I'm eventually going to buy a metal lathe anyway, so I figure I will do my threading on it as well...
 

BRobbins629

Passed Away Dec 28, 2021
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Richmond, VA, USA.
Hey i still want one, but not because i think that thats the way everyone else makes there pens, like the remark i was quoting, and think that i now have to buy one. I just wanted him to realize that all of this can be done on a wood lathe.

I have been looking at one for over 6 months now, and started a thread way before the metal lathe forum was started. I want one because i am interested in doing multi-start threading on it, and getting away from the taps and dies.

Yeah, me too. And on that note, considering threading only, I would assume that a CNC would be "easier" than swapping out change gears, right? At least once you get it programmed? I know threading can be done with taps and dies, but I'm eventually going to buy a metal lathe anyway, so I figure I will do my threading on it as well...

Having tried all 3 methods - taps and dies, threading on lathe, and CNC, from my perspective CNC is by far the easiest and most versitle. Virtually any pitch is possible, any diameter and any number of starts. Last weekend I did a triple start treaded box with square threrads on the CNC and exceeded my expectations.

CNC forum is next on the list:)
 
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glycerine

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Messages
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Fayetteville, NC
Having tried all 3 methods - taps and dies, threading on lathe, and CNC, from my perspective CNC is by far the easiest and most versitle. Virtually any pitch is possible, any diameter and any number of starts. Last weekend I did a triple start treaded box with square threrads on the CNC and exceeded my expectations.

CNC forum is next on the list:)

So is your Cummins 7 X 12 CNC'd or are you using another CNC machine? Sorry, not trying to highjack the thread, but I think CNC also weighs in on the decision of which lathe to buy!
 
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