Inserts Question

[ttpenman]

I don't know anything about turning metal but I have 2 Sherline lathes I use for turning pens. My question is -- what inserts do you use for turning wood and acrylic pens? Different inserts for wood and acrylic? When I first got my Sherline I used a angled insert, mounted on the backside of the blank, with the insert upside down. I did this because when I bought my lathe that was what I was told to do. I use a device, made by HUT that moves the tool holder back and forth parallel to the blank to make the cuts. I have also used a basic pointed insert to do the same thing. I see many inserts in sets from various suppliers and I'm confused. I would appreciate some suggestions from those of you who use metal lathes on what is the best insert for my purpose.

Thanks for all the great advise you guys offer.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

 

[h0race]

I don't know anything about turning metal but I have 2 Sherline lathes I use for turning pens. My question is -- what inserts do you use for turning wood and acrylic pens? Different inserts for wood and acrylic? When I first got my Sherline I used a angled insert, mounted on the backside of the blank, with the insert upside down. I did this because when I bought my lathe that was what I was told to do. I use a device, made by HUT that moves the tool holder back and forth parallel to the blank to make the cuts. I have also used a basic pointed insert to do the same thing. I see many inserts in sets from various suppliers and I'm confused. I would appreciate some suggestions from those of you who use metal lathes on what is the best insert for my purpose.

Thanks for all the great advise you guys offer.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

Jeff, I too use a Sherline at times. I never heard of putting the insert at the back... but as I think of it, it sounds like a great plan to me. I'm kind of partial to the carbide insert that came with my lathe. It seems to do what I ask it to do.

I'm making a tool rest so I can use the conventional woodworking tools with my lathe as I only use the Sherline to make the "pen in progress" round and uniform before I take it to my Sears 15" variable wood lathe and shape the contour. Mounting the insert at the back and then the tool rest at the front, I could do one process and then when moving the insert away, it would move my rest towords the work.

I would love to see the tool from HUT you mentioned. Any chance of uploading a photo?

 

[ttpenman]

Take a look at the Carriage Control System on HUT's site:

hutproductsDOTcom/prodinfo.asp?number=2508

I love the gadget they sell. For many years I made Parker style screw cap pens that were pretty much straight sided. With this jig I could crank out pens pretty quick. And if you keep the cutter sharp it works great on acrylics.

May I ask what shape your carbide insert is? Have you ever tried and others.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

 

[bitshird]

Use a 1/4in. HSS lathe bit, and cut the relief on the end to about a 20 degree angle, same on the left side, Now also grind about a 10 to 15 degree across the top with the high point being the side that will be doing the cutting,. you can grind back about a half inch, and when it comes time to sharpen you will just have to touch the left side and a quick slip with an oil stone. I made my first hundred or so pens on a Jet 920 and with a wee bit of coordination you can get some degree of contour by using the lateral and cross feed, Now there is a power lateral drive available for the Sherline, I really like Taig, but I do believe I'm going to get a 4400 I hope. just for small stuff like pen parts and stuff.

 

[Dalecamino]

Jeff, I don't know if this will help you but, I thought I would throw this up anyway. I was given this set of tools by Mike Roux. I have turned aluminum, acrylic and, wood with this one tool that is mounted in the tool holder. I have used the one with the point in the center for cutting decorative grooves in my pen parts. I think these are available at Little Machine Shop. Maybe Mike will see this and, confirm that. OR, you can take a look at their site. Notice the tool post is turned slightly to the left to give the cutting tool a better angle for cutting. I know....poor pictures:redface: Hope this helps.

 

[mredburn]

I use sherline for all my work. I use the carbide cutters that Sherline sells. I use HSS that I grind to my own specs. I will take pictures shortly I also made a carbide cutter that uses the inserts that I got from Ken at Woodchuck Tools. I use a boring bar holder turned sideways for using hand turning tools.

 

[bluwolf]

Jeff, I don't know if this will help you but, I thought I would throw this up anyway. I was given this set of tools by Mike Roux. I have turned aluminum, acrylic and, wood with this one tool that is mounted in the tool holder. I have used the one with the point in the center for cutting decorative grooves in my pen parts. I think these are available at Little Machine Shop. Maybe Mike will see this and, confirm that. OR, you can take a look at their site. Notice the tool post is turned slightly to the left to give the cutting tool a better angle for cutting. I know....poor pictures:redface: Hope this helps.

Those cutters were given to me so I don't know where they came from. I know you can get them lots of places. But I would think if you have a Sherline they may or may not be too big for it. I think I would check the Sherline site and see what they have. At least it will give you an idea of what's out there and what sizes will work.

 

[mredburn]

on ebay 800 watt has a set of them for sale just enter sherline in your search and they will show up. I believe they are between 15 and 17 dollars plus shipping.

Heres a link http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pc-1-4-In...109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e67d950bd

 

[mredburn]

Here is a couple of shots of the HSS cutter I use for wood and plastics. It is not good for metals. Its angles are steeper than for metal. The one face is ground at a 50 degree angle except right at the tip where its closer to 60 degrees. THat way i can get right in next to my live center. This profile acts like a knife. I repeat it will not work for metal.

 

[ttpenman]

Thanks for the replies. I look at a metal lathe catalog and see so many types of inserts. Looks like the basic ones work the best for my purpose.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

 

[h0race]

Take a look at the Carriage Control System on HUT's site:

hutproductsDOTcom/prodinfo.asp?number=2508


"May I ask what shape your carbide insert is? Have you ever tried and others".

Jeff in northern Wisconsin

I like it.. I'll probably order one before the end of the week. I read the online documentation and it appeals to me.

My Sherline was given to me by one of their employees so I have been getting the stock "low cost" carbide that comes with the lathe from that individual.

 

[Curly]

I use a Diamond Tool made by Eccentric Engineering from Australia for my turning. Simple to sharpen, but as they are made in a one man shop, not cheap. :frown: I'm going to get some more holders anyway.

http://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2&Itemid=18

For many operations carbide doesn't work well on small lathes. It doesn't like interrupted cuts (edges chip), requires deeper cuts, feeds and speeds than a mini lathe can provide to work best. High Speed Steel can be sharpened to a sharper edge enabling a small lathe to take finer cuts and give better finishes with their limited power. If you feel that you want to use insert tooling instead of sharpening your own tools, Arthur R. Warner Co. make HHS inserts that will fit your existing tooling or their own.

http://arwarnerco.com/index.html

 

[btboone]

I use a 55 degree diamond. It can be used to face and do the outside of most shapes. It is more solid than a longer and thinner shape like a 35 degree diamond and more versatile than a shorter shape like an 80 degree diamond, so works well for most stuff.

 

[graham murfin]

Hi
I never use sintered carbide inserts on wood or acrylic, they are for high production and tool setups. They are not sharp and put stress on the workpiece most toolholders are effectively negative rake and the top angle is formed by the insert geometry, HSS or better still cobolt toolbits last for hours even at high speeds and are easily reground.
I turn all my acrylics with a 1/8" bullnose hss bit and can start sanding at 360 grit.
graham