Help me choose between these lathes

[InvisibleMan]

Hello all,

After a couple years turning pens with a wood lathe, I'm ready to play with a new toy. I want a metal lathe, and I believe that I've narrowed my choice down to two machines, but would like a sanity check comparison from those of you who know far more than I about these things.

We can assume that the lathe will be used exclusively for making custom pens. I currently have no interest in anything else, and am not willing to spend more to do more.

My main reason for the new lathe would be threading. I want to make pretty threads, approximating 12mm x .8, 14mm x .8, 16mm x .8 triple start threads, as well as a roster of single start threads. I really don't know what features to look for to know that a lathe can handle the triple start threads (or even quad start for that matter if possible).

My second reason, though important, is quicker and more accurate standardized sizes for my pen lines that I'm developing.

With that, I think that I've narrowed the decision down to two machines:

1) Little Machine Shop HiTorque Mini, which is 7x12. My biggest concern is size, as my current Jet wood mini is 10x14. Is the smaller size going to be a problem? Never having used a metal lathe, I'm not sure how much room I'll need for, say, drilling a barrel. The next size up, though, is much more expensive.

2) MicroLux 7/16 mini. Biggest concern is quality, but I have no basis for this concern other than the lathe seems light in comparison. Quality is huge for me, as I am not exactly a handyman.

Any thoughts? Of course, if one will thread the way I want, and the other won't, decision is easy. Thanks for any help

 

[ashaw]

From what I heard both are good. I am also looking but I would go with the little machine shop. I am looking as well. 7x12" maybe tight. I am looking at the 8.5x20

 

[mredburn]

THe 7x 16 is your best bet but both will have gears to cut threads. If all you do is cut short parts the 7x12 will work but things get really tight when drilling blanks. Cutting triple leads or more is not hard but its not super easy, Skiprat has a thread where he shows you how to cut triple threads on a lathe.

Found it in the library http://content.penturners.org/library/techniques/skiprats_triple_start_threading.pdf

 

[frank123]

Other factors being equal or close to it, bigger is better.

More HP is better than lesser HO, longer length between centers and larger swing is better than shorter and smaller. (given a choice between diameter of swing and length between centers, I'd personally take longer length over larger swing) Either of those machines is easily hand portable and small enough for most work areas.

And while an inch machine can approximate metric threads and a metric machine approximate inch threads, a metric machine will make them absolute for metric threads and a inch machine will make them absolute for inch threads. Approximated conversions will usually work for several diameters of thread length without problems for most thread pitches but can cause trouble on fine pitches.

(Eventually considering a simple DRO for the cross slide is not a bad idea for ease of threading, it makes backlash and such less of a consideration and eliminates a lot of guesswork about your depth of cut. It doesn't have to be expensive, fancy, or a part of the original machine setup, I've seen very credible ones made out of digital calipers. Just something to keep in mind as you learn how to use your machine.)

 

[InvisibleMan]

Thanks, guys! I actually did manage to find basically this same thread with some good info as well. I think I'll go with the larger machine, although saving a little longer for the larger LMS lathe may also come into play. I like the looks of that thing - the 8.5x16. Way more money, but looks like a much better machine.

 

[randyrls]

Lyle; Some of the metal lathes are measured to different standards. Some lathes are measured from spindle nose to tail stock taper, some are head stock dead center to tail stock dead center.

Also the tooling you will need will add a substantial amount to the budget for the lathe.

 

[ALA]

Not to hijack a thread but since we're talking metal lathes I'd like to hear others input as well. I've been looking at the Grizzly G0602....any thoughts? I'll also be checking out your comments on the different ones from LMS as well.

 

[BRobbins629]

With the exception of those using a CNC, I don't believe there has been a pen posted on this forum that couldn't be made on either of these 2, and many a fine pen has been made on lesser lathes. With the proper chucks and techniques, drilling and threading on either can be done. A little tight on my version of the 7 x 12, but I've never found a case where I couldn't do it. You will definitely have fun with either.

 

[cwolfs69]

With the exception of those using a CNC, I don't believe there has been a pen posted on this forum that couldn't be made on either of these 2, and many a fine pen has been made on lesser lathes. With the proper chucks and techniques, drilling and threading on either can be done. A little tight on my version of the 7 x 12, but I've never found a case where I couldn't do it. You will definitely have fun with either.

absolutely right Bruce. if only making pens and stuff that size either would do fine. my choice of the 2 would be the LMS 7 x 12.
if there is a possibility of anything bigger, which i guarantee you will come upon something other than what projects you have planned, and you can afford it, i would go with the 8.5 x 16 or 20. not only larger it also has power cross-feed and more rigidity. i have the HF 7 x 10 which is really about a 7 x 8.5 and have no problem drilling blanks in it.

 

[creativewriting]

I owned a Grizzly 7X12 and now have a Big Dog Metal Works 7x14. The Big Dog has several features that I prefer over the Grizzly including a quick release tail stock, digital read out, and a more sturdy tail stock. There hasn't been a big difference between the 12 and 14. Both were tight when doing certain things (i.e. drilling, taping, etc.). Though it would be nice to have a larger lathe the 7 x 14 has handled everything I have thrown at it and you get used to the small quarters.

 

[InvisibleMan]

Power cross feed is a good point on the 8.5x16. I meant to ask what I would need that for. I understand its use for a CNC machine, but not manual.

 

[BKelley]

Lyle,

If the ole billfold can stand it, the LMS 8.5 x 16 is a real nice piece of equipment. I upgraded from a 7 x 12 to the 8.5 x 16. I have not regretted it one bit. By the way,
LMS people are great to deal with.

Ben

 

[InvisibleMan]

Lyle,

If the ole billfold can stand it, the LMS 8.5 x 16 is a real nice piece of equipment. I upgraded from a 7 x 12 to the 8.5 x 16. I have not regretted it one bit. By the way,
LMS people are great to deal with.

Ben

Thanks, Ben. I'm actually starting to lean this way. What is the advantage of the power cross feed though?

 

[InvisibleMan]

The LMS 8.5x16 went on sale, and stands are back in stock. I placed my order this morning. Now I get to check my tracking number every 30 minutes:biggrin:

 

[BKelley]

Lyle,

Most of the 7 x 12 lathes are made in the same company and there is not much difference in them. I had a Grizzly 7 x 12 and it was a nice little lathe. I wanted some thing a little larger and hit on the LMS 8.5 x 16. I can tell you it is a great lathe for the money. I don't think you would ever regret buying it. What ever you buy, welcome to the metal lathe group.

Ben

 

[InvisibleMan]

It arrives Monday. Is it too early to call in sick for all of next week?:biggrin:

 

[InvisibleMan]

OK, the stand is together, working now on assembling a shop crane. It was on sale at Harbor Freight, so I decided to buy that instead of just getting help lifting the lathe onto the stand. It's in the garage, so will need to move it around fairly often, and don't want to risk the stand coming apart if I drag it across the floor:bulgy-eyes:

I have one concern. The power feed lever may or may not be broken. I haven't powered the lathe up yet, but I'm supposed to have to push the lever to the left first, then up to engage the cross slide, or down to engage the carriage drive. I do have to push left before pushing up, but I do not have to push left before moving the lever between the carriage slide position and the disengaged position. It seems to move freely between the two positions, whether I first push left or not. Is that a problem?