GIBS VS GIBLETS

[okiebugg]

My problem is one iof ignorance. I have the basic knowlege of math, fractions, and what I've learned over the years by observation.

When I ask of shimming, and you say gibs, I say I don't know Gibs from Turkey Giblets. I have muddled through self teaching, but haven't been able to ' figger'out shimming to the center line. of the objective,

I have a tool "table" that is used as an XY table for adjustments. I have the manual tool table, and not the other one mentioned by some on here.

Here is one caveat: I am a combat veteran and have a pretty serious problem with PTSD. I have what the shrinks call "racing thoughts".......I can read instructions, but comprehension is another matter. If I follow someone who is talking to me, I do just fine. If there is a (sounds gay--I'm not gay) male angel out there whom I could have a conversation with, I could probably learn a lot more, but so far nobody has volunteered. Short conversations. I'll pay the phone time. Anyone interested in a phone pal, let me know...I'll send you my # and we can talk occasionally, or send me your # under PM and we'el talk. Thanks in advance.......

 

[seamus7227]

INQUIRING MINDS WANNA KNOW, what in the world are you talking about?

 

[Curly]

I think he wants someone to help him understand how tighten/adjust his X-Y table to take out the looseness and perhaps backlash out of it too.

 

[Paul in OKC]

If you look under where the table 'slides' when you turn the handle, there is a dove tail set up, so to speak. On one side there should be a screw, that holds in the 'gib'. It is a tapered piece used to take slop out of the table. If not there, then there may be a row of set screws with nuts on them on one side. What type of table is it? (I was just in your neck of the woods twice last week).

 

[jd99]

Well if it's the gib adjustment there is usally a screw on the gib that you turn in to tighten the table adjustment, or turn out to loosen. Other tables have a row of screws and locknuts down the side of the table that you need to tighten or loosen to adjust the table gib.

It would help if we knew what kind of machine.

It we are talking about backlash on the lead screw, then the nut may be a two peice nut and there will be a way to either squeeze or spread the two halfs together or apart to take up the backlash, or the nut might have a cut down 3/4 of the length and you tighten the backlash by squeezing together.

In any case it's a time consuming project that take a light touch as over tightening will lock up the table, and could cause damage.

Had to adjust many machines in my past and we won't talk about hand scraping ways.....

 

[okiebugg]

If you look under where the table 'slides' when you turn the handle, there is a dove tail set up, so to speak. On one side there should be a screw, that holds in the 'gib'. It is a tapered piece used to take slop out of the table. If not there, then there may be a row of set screws with nuts on them on one side. What type of table is it? (I was just in your neck of the woods twice last week).

You've got it exactly correct.

 

[okiebugg]

Well if it's the gib adjustment there is usally a screw on the gib that you turn in to tighten the table adjustment, or turn out to loosen. Other tables have a row of screws and locknuts down the side of the table that you need to tighten or loosen to adjust the table gib.

It would help if we knew what kind of machine.

It we are talking about backlash on the lead screw, then the nut may be a two peice nut and there will be a way to either squeeze or spread the two halfs together or apart to take up the backlash, or the nut might have a cut down 3/4 of the length and you tighten the backlash by squeezing together.

In any case it's a time consuming project that take a light touch as over tightening will lock up the table, and could cause damage.

Had to adjust many machines in my past and we won't talk about hand scraping ways.....

I hacve a HF 7 X 12 mini Metal Lathe. I have adjusted the Gibs to attempt to raise the height of the tool holder, but it remains too los. Do I shim tunder the slides on the XY table?, or under the cutting bits themselves?. It seems that no matter what I do, the bit always remains below the center line, or the table is hard to move because of pressure from the adjustment screws. I'm just frustrated that I cannot easily comprehend written instructions and not ready to throw in the towel.....

 

[mredburn]

Adjusting the gibs is for the fit of the sliding parts. The tool height is something entirely different. Shim under the tool to raise so the tip is on/at the center of the work piece your trying to cut.

 

[mredburn]

The part on the lathe that goes left to right as you face the lathe is the Saddle. THe piece that goes in and out on top of it is the Cross slide. You should have a piece on top of that that can change angles that is the compound slide. These three pieces should have places to adjust them for slop or bieng to tight.

The Tool post sits on top of all 3 of them. Do you have a quick change tool post? do you have a picture of your lathe or an online picture that looks like your lathe?

 

[bitshird]

Billy, Don't over tighten the Gib's, to raise the tool height on a 4 position tool holder, you have to shim the bottom side of the tool , (Not the tool holder) on the left side of the Compound the part the tool holder is on are 3 small set screws, these should be tightened so that there is just the slightest resistance to the crank turning, not loose just so you can feel some drag as you turn it.
On the actual cross slide which is the larger part of the Saddle/Apron the 3 screws are on the right side, Same thing they should be loosened up all 3 then one at a time tighten the middle one first, until you feel a very slight resistance to turning the crank, then do the other two, try and get them so that when you feel more resistance to turning the crank, you back off the screw ever so slightly then tighten the lock nut.
If you want to give me a call at
(seven three one) four three nine 1464

 

[jd99]

What has been said above is right, you don't adjust the gibs on the machine to raise or lower the bit, the gibs are adjusted to give your carrage, cross slide, or compound slide a smooth sliding action without having any side to side slop.

You need to use shims under the cutting bit in your tool holder to raise the cutting edge to the centerline.

I use peices of old hacksaw blades (grind the teeth off) and peices of the metal strapping or banding they use the strap stuff to pallets, or you can buy a box of assorted shim stock and cut peices to use.

It looks like Bitshird has offered to have you call and I'm sure he will be able to help.

If I can be of help just let me know.

 

[Chuck Key]

Here is one caveat: I am a combat veteran and have a pretty serious problem with PTSD.

A blade type automotive feeler gauge make decent shim stock. An inexpensive set form the automotive store usually includes .0015" about .025". Put whatever you need under the cutting bit to get the best cut with the least amount of chatter if any.

I also have a PTSD diagnosis with the VA. No fun.

Chuckie

 

[okiebugg]

Thanks

All of you chipping in has answered some of my many questions. The bandsaw blade and automotive feeler gauge are key!. I just knew the way, but didn't know how to get there and now I have a starting place.

At the very least, the Gibs are well adjusted.

I'll call tomorrow evening. Thanks all, at the very least now, I'll be able to center the bit!

 

[okiebugg]

Here is one caveat: I am a combat veteran and have a pretty serious problem with PTSD.

A blade type automotive feeler gauge make decent shim stock. An inexpensive set form the automotive store usually includes .0015" about .025". Put whatever you need under the cutting bit to get the best cut with the least amount of chatter if any.

I also have a PTSD diagnosis with the VA. No fun.

Chuckie

I have a double whammy. Combat, plus a sexual sadist for a stepdad. It's finally over, he was killed in prison praise God! I am however no longer a victim.

 

[okiebugg]

All of you chipping in has answered some of my many questions. The bandsaw blade and automotive feeler gauge are key!. I just knew the way, but didn't know how to get there and now I have a starting place.

At the very least, the Gibs are well adjusted.

I'll call tomorrow evening. Thanks all, at the very least now, I'll be able to center the bit!

The hacksaw/bandsaw blade and the feeler gauge worked wonders for my trial. I'm comfortable that I'll be able to accomplish something smooth now....

 

[okiebugg]

GIT 'R DUN

Thanks to all of the suggestions, I'm finally up and running.In addition to making several threaded rivets for the knives I make, I turned a couple of pens on my mini today.

First Truestone. Like Buttah

The cut and tool pressure are so constant that you don't do ANYTHING EXCEPT KEEP THE TOOL MOVING.

second, bodark, like buttah

third spalted, pithy hachberry--extremely dry. Turned down to .030 over. I could see the brass through the wood and dust created, but the wood looked great. Next one, same hackberry. Turned to .050 over and stablized with CA....worked perfect....SO, you don't know what you're missing without a mini-metal lathe.