DRO installation problem LMS 8.5 x 16 lathe

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InvisibleMan

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I'm trying to install the DRO package on my new LMS 8.5 x 16 lathe, but I have what seems to be a major problem with what they sent me. The original cross feed lead screw has a hole through it to pin a gear to. I believe the gear operates the power cross feed. The new lead screw has no hole, even though the instructions clearly reference using this same gear and pin to fix it to the new lead screw.

Using the old lead screw is not an option, and I don't have a drill press to accurately drill a hole through the rod. Anybody done one of these? Am I missing something? It's the weekend, and LMS is closed. I want to get this done!
 
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Marker

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I bought a Dro system for my micro Mark 7x14" lathe.

I am now about to take if off and go back to the old dials.

The reason as to why I am going back to the original....is because....well the batteries are dead, and I don't have replacements, and I had a hard time getting them out.

I like the dials better, because...There is no battery to die.

Once I get around to taking it off, I will try to sell it for a lot less them I paid for the set.
 
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InvisibleMan

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Well, I just put it together without the gear for now. I tried to drill a hole through the rod, but it didn't work out very well. I don't have the right tooling for that.

It works pretty well, other than not having power cross feed, which isn't a big deal. I'll call LMS on Monday and sort it out. I clearly need some longer tools, too:)

I should write a tutorial to supplement the instructions in case anybody else stumbles down this road. The ones they provide are probably fine for most people, but definitely not good enough for a metal lathe rookie. I needed the "for dummies" version. I didn't understand that "remove this part" really means "take the whole lathe apart":biggrin: Plus, some of their photos look like they were taken by a bigfoot researcher. But, I learned an awful lot about the lathe in the process. It was worth the hassle, and it seems to work great. I made one pass with a tool bit, got into my happy place, and called it a night after a long day futzing around with it.

The batteries are a bit of a pain, but if the ribbon works properly, they pop right out. If not, tweezers. Had to figure that out already when one of the units started acting up. I think I had the battery on top of part of the ribbon.
 
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Dalecamino

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Lyle, is this DRO for your cross feed or the tail stock? I didn't bother puttin g one on my cross feed. But, the one I have mounts on the tail stock housing. We fabricated a collar to fit the TS quil and, attached the slide to that. Maybe Mike Redburn or Mike Roux will help out with your question.
 

InvisibleMan

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Thanks, Chuck. It is for my cross feed, which I do like. The other is for the compound, which I also like, but a tail stock DRO would be nice to have too. Actually, digital everything would be nice, but I guess that's two more units and some customization. Someday:biggrin:

Hopefully, LMS has the screws with a hole drilled and I just got one that slipped through the cracks.
 

InvisibleMan

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OK, I'm ready to actually use a working machine any time now. These DROs are going to be the death of me.

The cross slide seems to work great. The DRO gives me verifiable lengths of travel.

The compound slide is a mess. There is a little over half a mm of slop where the handle and screw move, but the slide does not. It isn't catching right away or something, and the DRO is all over the map. It counts slop as motion, but stops advancing as the slide is moving. I measured out 6mm of travel when the DRO told me it had moved 2mm. No wonder my triple start threading practice was a disaster.

The carriage has almost 1/10" of slop as well. The wheel turns 1/10" on the dial with no movement from the carriage. It's like driving a 1970 LTD.

Is this all normal with metal lathes? This wasn't what I was expecting at all...
 

rherrell

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You must have the handle mounted DRO system, the problem with them, as you have found, is that they measure the movement of the SCREW, what you are seeing is the DRO measuring the BACKLASH. EVERY machine has backlash, that's normal so don't worry about it.

The fix for your problem is to use a DRO that's mounted to the moving part, carriage or cross slide.

This is the one I have on all my machines.... Grizzly.com

The long flat part that the sensor moves on can be cut to any length so get one a little long and cut it down to fit your machine. The batteries last a LONG time, two years and counting on the first one I bought for my mill.

They're inexpensive but pretty accurate, I HIGHLY recommend them for the amateur machinist like you and I.:biggrin:


I'll be in the shop later and I'll post some pics of how I mounted them.
 
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rherrell

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Here you go...








I hope this helps give you an idea of what to do.

To tell the truth, I tried putting them on my lathe but they just got in the way. The only thing I use it for is the tailstock, it really helps with drilling to an exact depth.

Once you learn how to control backlash you'll probably find you won't need them either. The secret is to go in ONE DIRECTION and DON'T BACK UP.

If I'm turning down a part I back off the cross slide and then sneak up on the part until the cutting tool JUST touches, at this point I adjust my dial to zero and NEVER BACK UP...if you do you'll have to start over.
 

InvisibleMan

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Thanks, Rick. That makes tons of sense. I can definitely deal with the backlash, but the DRO setup was making me think that I shouldn't have any. I'll probably scrap these and go back to the dials for now. I imagine triple start (or quad) threading will be more difficult to get right than I thought, but we'll see....
 

InvisibleMan

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Walla! As soon as the DRO came off the compound slide, triple start threads fell out of the lathe like I've been making them my whole life:) Now to make a pen barrel and see if my old 3x caps fit...then quad lead threads.:biggrin:

I should have an internal thread tool in the next few days, then the real fun begins.
 
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