Diamond Toolholder??

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randyrls

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I have the diamond toolholder (DTH) but found the compound and AXA 100 QCTP on my 9x20 lathe is too flexible. If I put an AXA 250 Wedge type QCTP on a plinth block with the DTH, it works much better, but I lose the compound.

My 9x20 has a donut mount under the compound so it is very stiff with normal tooling. I may try the 4-way tool post instead of the QCTP. I noticed that the diamond tool bit is much further away from the QCTP support and think this is causing the flex.

Any suggestions would be helpful.
 
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ironman123

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I do not have the DTH but I have the AXA 100 sitting on a donut on my 9x20 and it is pretty stout. If I try to go too deep of a cut it will dip down a very littlr bit. I thought about trying the DTH but it needs to be close to the center of the post.

Ray
 

IPD_Mr

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Randy can you see where the flex is? Is the post base mount a two or four bolt mount? I was told to switch to the four bolt as that is one of the weak points on a 9x20 lathe. Also I think the QCTP you are using is aluminum, that could be a source for a small amount of flex as well. All speculation of course from things I have read over the last couple of weeks.
 

seamus7227

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Sorry to dig this up, but wouldnt you figure i would find this thread after my run-in with the "hobby-machinist" forum. Anyway, here is the info on this tool from there website. I purchased one a week ago and will be testing it out as soon as it comes in the mail! Happy Reading!!

The Diamond Tool Holder was originally developed in Australia by Des Burke in 1985 and manufactured by him until 2006. At the age of 80 Des finally hung up his production overalls to spend more time in his shed on hobby engineering .

Since Des started the Diamond Tool Holder many thousands have been sold across the world, the majority in Australia and the USA where our distributor, Bay-Com, handle our sales.

UK customers can now order direct from our distributor. Click here for details

Unlike conventional lathe tools the High Speed Steel (HSS) tool bit is held at a tangential angle to the work piece.


photo4and5.jpg







Tangential tool angle Conventional tool angle

Holding the tool bit in this position provides all the clearance angles required for general cutting purposes. Leaving only the top rake to be put on using the grinding jig that comes with the kit.

Due to this tangential angle, all the cutting forces will be transferred down through the length of the tool tip. This together with a body cast in 4140 heat treated steel makes for a very rigid tool.

The Diamond Tool Holder utilises a standard piece of square section 1/4" HSS, inexpensive and easily available from any engineering supplies. One tool bit blank is supplied with each kit.

Resharpening is fast and simple using the supplied grinding jig. Just clamp the tool bit in the jig and run it across a regular bench grinder. Due to the design of the holder, this is the only face that needs grinding.

Using the same jig, it is easy to grind the angles for a 55 or 60 degree screw cutting tip by using the V groove at the front of the jig. The holders will also accept 1/4" diameter round HSS for use as a round nose tool and the jig will sharpen this too.

For more information on the Diamond Tool Holder click the Features and Tips button, or watch the video of the tool in action. For information on how to select the correct size tool for your lathe, click the Sizes and Ordering button.


The Diamond Tool Holder is available in five sizes, from 8mm - 16mm tool height.

The original design for the tool meant that the shank had to be angled at 12 degrees so that it could slide and surface at the same setting. This design is a compromise to make the tool easier to use when screwcutting, so that the shank doesn't get in the way as much when cutting a thread close to the chuck. See the images below for more detail.

The 8mm, 9.5mm, and 12mm tools have been redesigned so that the tool tip can face and surface when the shank is at 90 degrees to the mandrel. This makes the tool much more convenient to set up when used in a quick change or 4-way tool post. The 8mm, 9.5mm, and 12mm tools are also available in a left hand version for cutting towards the tailstock and left hand shoulders. The left hand tool also gets around the problem of the shank getting in the way of the chuck when cutting threads.



Facing%20Layout.jpg




To select the correct size tool holder for your lathe, take a measurement from the base of the tool post where the holder will sit on, to the centre height line of the lathe.

This measurement is the lowest setting that the tool bit can go down to, but the tool tip can be moved up or down for fine adjustment to get the point on centre. Of course you can always put a piece of packing under the holder to bring it up higher for a bigger lathe.

If you are using an adjustable tool post, set it close to its lowest point before measuring.

Once you have decided which tool holder is best for your lathe, use the online shop to purchase.

Centre%20Height2.jpg
 
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yort81

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Seamus7227 my brother spammer... did you finally order them from Bay Com... if you did.... my friend... you will never regret it..... they are simply the best. Everyone complains how expensive they are... but in reality... they are so inexpensive .... ive used the same round and square bit cutter for more than a year now.... 30 seconds to sharpen them and get them back in the holder.... the same bit (with a 30Âş compound) I can face... then make a traveling cut toward the headstock.... then drive it in 30 thou.. and make a cut toward the tail stock.... and the surface finish is second to none... Don't forget you put you on to them.. that's right.. ME :p
 

seamus7227

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Seamus7227 my brother spammer... did you finally order them from Bay Com... if you did.... my friend... you will never regret it..... they are simply the best. Everyone complains how expensive they are... but in reality... they are so inexpensive .... ive used the same round and square bit cutter for more than a year now.... 30 seconds to sharpen them and get them back in the holder.... the same bit (with a 30Âş compound) I can face... then make a traveling cut toward the headstock.... then drive it in 30 thou.. and make a cut toward the tail stock.... and the surface finish is second to none... Don't forget you put you on to them.. that's right.. ME :p

Actually, I ordered them directly from EccentricEngineering.com.au

And even though they are in Australia, it was still cheaper to go directly through them than bay-com.com
 

yort81

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I thought about that too... until i checked into the duty to be paid at customs.... I just shelled out for them from Bay Com.
 

Ironwood

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I bought a rh & lh set of these about a year ago after a friend was raving about how good they are. I still haven't used mine, they are still sitting in the box in a drawer.
I also bought a couple of pieces of Tantung steel to use in them, I suppose I should pull my finger out and put them to use.
I will be interested to hear what you think of yours Seamus.
 

Ironwood

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Seamus, in the metalwork section of the Australian Woodwork forums, there has been a lot of healthy discussions regarding this tool. If you put "diamond tool holder" into the search you will come up with a couple of pages worth, including one long thread on making your own.
Here is a thread started by Big Shed ( Fred ) Diamond Tool Holder

If you want to ask any questions on there I am sure you wont get banned.
 

BSea

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Seamus, in the metalwork section of the Australian Woodwork forums, there has been a lot of healthy discussions regarding this tool. If you put "diamond tool holder" into the search you will come up with a couple of pages worth, including one long thread on making your own.
Here is a thread started by Big Shed ( Fred ) Diamond Tool Holder

If you want to ask any questions on there I am sure you wont get banned.
That's an interesting thread. There's much more in there than just building your own tool. But I didn't look past the thread, or do a search.

Still very interesting reading. That's the kind of information we need here.
 

JPMcConnel

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Perhaps a Good Tool for Cutting Tapers?

I looked at the videos for the Diamond Tool Holder and it looks like it might make cutting tapers on a metal lathe a bit easier with more support for the cutting face, and creating a better finish. Clearance between the live center in the tail stock and the tool bit can be a problem on small items and this holder might help in that department, too. To date I have found it a challenge to get as smooth a finish on a taper cut as on a straight forward cut. I use HSS and sharpen and shape my own bits. I think I may acquire this in the 12mm size with the tool bit sharpener holder; I never met a tool I couldn't love.
 

seamus7227

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As soon as mine arrives i will be posting up some pictures and all info i can about it!

Bob, This is why I feel we needs more sub-forums in the "metal lathes" forum!
 

Ironwood

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That's an interesting thread. There's much more in there than just building your own tool. But I didn't look past the thread, or do a search.

Still very interesting reading. That's the kind of information we need here.

Bob, the thread I mentioned about making your own was further down than Freds thread, its gets right into the nitty gritty of the tool.
I think it is in that thread where the Guy from Eccentric tools adds to the discussion of building your own, I can remember him being very helpful and generous with his knowledge.
 

yort81

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Here are a couple videos of me using the Diamond Tool holder on my South Bend 9A Circa 1950 model with a half horse motor.... You will notice I make a face cut can be made both forward and backwards and the same the the longitudinal cut.
Ive cut 7075 Aluminum , 147 Copper, 12L/14 Cold Rolled Steel, 303, 304 & 316 Stainless, 6alv Titanium and an assortment of plastics and acrylics with no problem... Ive had my cutter bit for more than a year (as well as a round cutter bit, not shown).... 10 seconds in the special sharpening jig and another 60 to get it back on center and down the road I go for about a week (stainless and titanium are a bit more often when it comes to Sharpening.....

Here is the Link to the Copper round
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Egzric_Pfwc&feature=youtu.be

Here is the Link to the 12/L14 Round (both the copper and the 12L/14 were 3/4 inch)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sq3rtJuks_U
 

Curly

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Here are a couple videos of me using the Diamond Tool holder on my South Bend 9A Circa 1950 model with a half horse motor.... You will notice I make a face cut can be made both forward and backwards and the same the the longitudinal cut.
Ive cut 7075 Aluminum , 147 Copper, 12L/14 Cold Rolled Steel, 303, 304 & 316 Stainless, 6alv Titanium and an assortment of plastics and acrylics with no problem... Ive had my cutter bit for more than a year (as well as a round cutter bit, not shown).... 10 seconds in the special sharpening jig and another 60 to get it back on center and down the road I go for about a week (stainless and titanium are a bit more often when it comes to Sharpening.....

Here is the Link to the Copper round
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Egzric_Pfwc&feature=youtu.be

Here is the Link to the 12/L14 Round (both the copper and the 12L/14 were 3/4 inch)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sq3rtJuks_U


When I click on your links I come upon a private access part of the site and some kind of password from you is needed yo view.

Are you using the standard HSS cutters or an exotic like the Crobaloy (sp)?
 

yort81

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Hi Curly... Sorry about that...I changed the setting to unlisted....... the round cutter and the square cutter Ive been using for more than a year now are 8% crobalt.... it's not exotic... its rather common place.... I do believe it's also called M42 steel cutter... i could be wrong :)

Cheers

Troy
 

Curly

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Same as I have but my round is the upper end of a cobalt bit so is a little soft. I find it also works well on our usual penmaking plastics. I have put an approximately .030 radius on one of the square bits for a smoother finish. I only have the right hand tool and want to get the newer left and right handers.
 

seamus7227

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Well, as of my last post, I have had some time to play with this tool and it is by far one the easiest tools to use and cuts through steel like its butter!!
 

randyrls

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Well, as of my last post, I have had some time to play with this tool and it is by far one the easiest tools to use and cuts through steel like its butter!!


Seamus; What kind of metal lathe do you have?

I have a 9x20 but found the compound too flexible to use with this tool. I've put a Donut mount on the compound, but there is still too much flex in it. A plinth block works much better.
 

Curly

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Seamus. I suggest you get some more bits and on some radius the corner down the length of the bit on a bench stone. Do it to two corners and sharpen both ends. Then you can flip the cutter for a new edge and you only have to go to the grinder half as often. The different radii give you different finishing options depending on material. A round bit also a must.
 

seamus7227

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Seamus; What kind of metal lathe do you have?

I have a 9x20 but found the compound too flexible to use with this tool. I've put a Donut mount on the compound, but there is still too much flex in it. A plinth block works much better.

I bought the PM1127VF-LB

Seamus. I suggest you get some more bits and on some radius the corner down the length of the bit on a bench stone. Do it to two corners and sharpen both ends. Then you can flip the cutter for a new edge and you only have to go to the grinder half as often. The different radii give you different finishing options depending on material. A round bit also a must.

Pete, on top of the HSS bits that it comes with, i ordered the Crobalt square and round bits as well! Can you show a pic of your description?!:confused: I'm not the smartest sometimes:rolleyes:
 

JPMcConnel

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I just ordered the 16mm L/H and R/H Diamond Tool Holder kit for my PM1340GT lathe direct from EccentricEngineering in Australia for $235 Australian. I was concerned about the weight for postage purposes, as nowhere have I found weights provided for the kits. I ordered just the kit and no extras so the weight was in the .5 - 1 kilogram range (essentially 1 - 2 pound range) for a cost of $38 Australian. Total bill was $273 Australian or $238 US plus some change. Will be interesting to see how long it takes to get here. I have some 5% and 8% cobalt bits in 5/8" I will try with this kit. Stay tuned.
 
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JPMcConnel

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The Diamond Toolholders arrived from Australia today; eight days from date of order to arrival at door is pretty darn good. Tool quality appears very high and I can see where a step provision has been made in the tool holder itself for an adapter to allow the use of smaller tool bits (except I didn't order the adapter - of well). Can't wait to start using the new holders. I also ordered cobalt-HSS tool bits that are 5%, 8%, and 10% cobalt in 5/16" square by 2.5" long to fit this tool holder. I ordered 5/16" round tool bits, but they are not available in cobalt from ENCO. A tool bit sharpening jig is also provided to allow you to properly sharpen the bits. Cool.
 
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