Cutting / Tapping fluid that is safe on plastics

[Carl Fisher]

I had been using the Re-Li-On fluid from LMS, but I really don't want to pay $12 for shipping on a $9 bottle of fluid and I don't have anything else to order from them right now.

Does anyone else know if tap magic is safe on plastics? I need something that doesn't have any harsh chemicals in it that would craze or otherwise alter the finish on both modern and vintage materials. Especially clear acrylics. If not, do you have any other suggestions?

Please don't suggest things like WD40, Crisco, etc... I want an actual cutting fluid to fill my spill master with.

Thanks!

 

[mredburn]

I now use TapFree 2 which is Water based.
Ebay has it as well as Victor Machinery and Amazon
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Tapfree2&_sop=15

 

[Carl Fisher]

Perfect, thanks.

I just didn't know what negative effect it might have on clear acrylics I'm needing as close to optically clear as I can get and don't need to be fighting my drilling coolant. I know some chemicals do bad things.

 

[Carl Fisher]

Any difference in the lineup? Seems to be lots of different formulas (ep-xtra, pro tap, aluminum, hot max, etc...)

 

[mredburn]

I used to use it but moved on to Tap free. Sorry for the confusion. I like the tap free better.
The link to Ebay has some decent pricing unless your going to buy stuff to add to it at Victor Machinery.

 

[Carl Fisher]

gotcha. I'll grab a bottle and see if I like it. 8 and 16oz bottles are pretty cheap it looks like.

 

[Ed McDonnell]

Check the MSDS for tapfree 2. If you find triethanolamine, you might want to consider alternatives.

Here's a link that might be useful:

http://www.holophane.com/hlp_library/brochures/HL-2445.pdf

I find water works well for me and doesn't leave anything that needs to be cleaned up. You could always call your plastics supplier (if you buy from an industrial supplier and not a pen vendor) and ask them for a recommendation that would best fit your application.

Ed

 

[Carl Fisher]

Not that I'm against water but since I'm not providing a continuous feed, I need something that has a thick enough consistency to stay on the bit when I peck drill. Water unfortunately won't suit my current method...that and I hate having to worry about water clean up on the cast iron bits.

Good to know on tap free. That's actually a pretty useful reference sheet.

I may need to ultimately get multiple fluids, although if I'm going to do that I should just bite the bullet on the shipping for the re-li-on which has been a proven fluid for me.

Figure I need to cover modern acrylics, cast acrylic and lucite plus the vintage materials like celluloid, cellulose acetate and cebloplast on a regular basis and the occasional aluminum, brass, stainless need.

 

[Ed McDonnell]

What I've started doing with drilling plastics on my lathe is to keep a damp paper towel (maybe a bit more wet than damp, but not dripping) in a plastic tray next to the machine when drilling. Each time I pull the bit out (every ~1/4") to clear I take a few seconds to use the paper towel to cool the bit. Sucks the heat out of the bit pretty fast. I lay the towel out between uses so that evaporation works to keep it cool. I get the benefit of water lube + cooling without a mess all over the equipment. Waiting for the bit to spin up and down on a drill press / mill would make this approach too time consuming, but on a lathe it doesn't add too much time (for me anyway).

Ed

 

[SteveG]

What I've started doing with drilling plastics on my lathe is to keep a damp paper towel (maybe a bit more wet than damp, but not dripping) in a plastic tray next to the machine when drilling. Each time I pull the bit out (every ~1/4") to clear I take a few seconds to use the paper towel to cool the bit. Sucks the heat out of the bit pretty fast. I lay the towel out between uses so that evaporation works to keep it cool. I get the benefit of water lube + cooling without a mess all over the equipment. Waiting for the bit to spin up and down on a drill press / mill would make this approach too time consuming, but on a lathe it doesn't add too much time (for me anyway).

Ed

I added a "Like" to Ed's post, not because I have done and recommend the method, but because I can see that it will work well, and intent to use it going forward...and that will likely be some time today.

 

[duncsuss]

Carl -- I just remembered that Shawn Newton said he uses "Water mixed with tri cool tc1" (on acrylics and ebonite).

 

[Bikerdad]

Ed's method sounds pretty good. Rather than a paper towel though, give a sponge a try. Works just fine for soldering, should work for drilling as well.

 

[dogcatcher]

I use automatic transmission fluid when tapping plastics. I also use the ATF for wet sanding plastics. I use any brand of ATF that has been designated Dexron compatible. Even the cheaper dollar stores carry it. Pretty easy to clean up and doesn't cause rust.

My introduction to ATF was from using "Ed's Red Bore Cleaner", research it and you will see why it works. Just leave out the "extras" needed for bore cleaners.

 

[Rockytime]

I use automatic transmission fluid when tapping plastics. I also use the ATF for wet sanding plastics. I use any brand of ATF that has been designated Dexron compatible. Even the cheaper dollar stores carry it. Pretty easy to clean up and doesn't cause rust.

My introduction to ATF was from using "Ed's Red Bore Cleaner", research it and you will see why it works. Just leave out the "extras" needed for bore cleaners.

I also use ATF and have done so for years. I use it for tapping, turning and milling. Wonderful stuff and inexpensive too.

 

[deadsea]

What I've started doing with drilling plastics on my lathe is to keep a damp paper towel (maybe a bit more wet than damp, but not dripping) in a plastic tray next to the machine when drilling. Each time I pull the bit out (every ~1/4") to clear I take a few seconds to use the paper towel to cool the bit. Sucks the heat out of the bit pretty fast. I lay the towel out between uses so that evaporation works to keep it cool. I get the benefit of water lube + cooling without a mess all over the equipment. Waiting for the bit to spin up and down on a drill press / mill would make this approach too time consuming, but on a lathe it doesn't add too much time (for me anyway).

Ed

I use the same technique..

Sometimes I use water soluble Boron Mineral based oil..

 

[OLLIEwinz]

i use mineral oil

 

[Carl Fisher]

I did pick up some re-li-on oil again from LMS in my last order. However I'm also using a cold wet rag to help keep the bit cool when required. The only time that doesn't help is when the material itself starts to heat up at which point it's time to just take a break and let everything cool naturally.

 

[Dalecamino]

Am I the only one that uses Pam on acrylics :redface: Used to be water with Dawn dish soap or, Pam/Granola oil. Washes off with soapy water. Pretty cheap too. :wink::biggrin:

I use Re-Li-On for metals. You can use it for whatever you want.

 

[Carl Fisher]

I used to use pam or similar cooking sprays but I like doing a brush application.

When I'm drilling clear materials, I only run about three cranks of the wheel before backing out to douse in fluid again. The brush makes that easy as I can just keep it in my left hand while I'm holding the chuck and then when I retract, clear the flutes and brush on the bit. I just find it more efficient for my methods.

In the end it's about what works. Lots of great suggestions in this thread, but a few that scared me off from using them on certain plastics so ultimately I went back to what I know and am comfortable with.

 

[Dalecamino]

Got it! That stuff comes in a bottle too. :wink::biggrin:

 

[haskoson]

i like to use pure "Camellia sinensis"-oil.
it´s the main ingredient of some oils used for weapons or fine-mechanics and optical instruments like microscopes (a brand available in Germany is for example "Balistol")
but it´s also available in its pure form
https://www.dictum.com/de/schaerfen...tschuetzer/705280/sinensis-kamelienoel-100-ml
it works fine for me on acrylics, polyester, Juma, cellulose acetate and Galalith. I have not tried it on Allumilite, because it´s not available in Germany.
it´s food safe and safe for cosmetics.
think about it:
turning pens, food, good looking

best regards

Gerrit / Haskoson