Cutting Fluid Cleanup options

[Justturnin]

I have not cut a lot of metal on my metal lathe but that is slowly changing. I cut a piece the other day for a friend and cleaned up the face. Doing this I used a Water Soluble Oil. Works fine but is a pain to clean off the lathe. I don't want to leave it because I am worried the lathe will rust due to the water. I oil the lathe after use but was wondering if there is an easier way to clean up things after I am done. I was thinking WD40 but not sure.

What say you?

 

[skiprat]

It won't rust with the WSO. What ratio did you mix it at?

I also find that I really only need to use WSO in the rare occassion that I drill a very large hole in stainless or if I'm milling or using a slitting saw in the lathe.

Just don't fall into the trap that WD40 is a lube and leave that all over your lathe. It's more of a solvent and therefore will degrease your machine in all those hidden crevices. Not good !!

 

[Justturnin]

It won't rust with the WSO. What ratio did you mix it at?

I also find that I really only need to use WSO in the rare occassion that I drill a very large hole in stainless or if I'm milling or using a slitting saw in the lathe.

Just don't fall into the trap that WD40 is a lube and leave that all over your lathe. It's more of a solvent and therefore will degrease your machine in all those hidden crevices. Not good !!

Thank you sir.
It has been a while since I mixed it but I believe it was at the highest Oil to Water ratio, no sure if I said it correctly but there it is the highest amount of oil that the mix recommends.

I totally understand about the WD40. I was thinking I could use it to clean up and reoil using my heavy oil.

 

[Paul in OKC]

Properly mixed the WSO's are designed to be a rust preventative. The water evaporates leaving the oil behind and can make things sticky, though.

 

[rherrell]

I use this... Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

It's bio-degradable, very low odor and can be used for cutting AND tapping. I apply it with a small brush so a little goes a long way and it sticks to the part and doesn't get flung(is that a word?:biggrin off.

 

[mototrev]

It all depends on what your machining.

Tapping fluid like *Rocol for Stainless steel and hard metals
Water soluble for mild steel (FCMS)
Kerosene can be used for aluminum
Nothing for brass or cast iron

The purpose of cutting fluid is:

1. To keep the tool cool.
2. Lubricate the tool
3. To aid in surface finish
4. Prolong tool life

It is also dependent on the speed depth of cut and feed rate:

• Using High speed steel
• **FCMS 25-30m per min
• Cast Iron 18-30m per min.
• Brass 35-60m per min.
• Aluminum 60-90m per min

This all changes using cemented carbide tools

A lot of the time I just don't use any fluids but if I do I use the Rocol

* ROCOL | Industrial Lubricants, Cutting Fluids & Line Marking
** FCMS free cutting mild steel

***I have a chart that covers all this

 

[frank123]

It won't rust with the WSO. What ratio did you mix it at?

I also find that I really only need to use WSO in the rare occassion that I drill a very large hole in stainless or if I'm milling or using a slitting saw in the lathe.

Just don't fall into the trap that WD40 is a lube and leave that all over your lathe. It's more of a solvent and therefore will degrease your machine in all those hidden crevices. Not good !!

WD40 was originally developed for the space program as a water displacer for electrical wiring (good for automotive use on distributor caps and plug wiring in wet climates).

Not a bad thing to use to prevent rust from condensation on machine tools, but not the best of lubricants even though that is what it is mostly used for now (at one time there wasn't even a specific formula for it, but that may have changed).

Most small home shop metal lathe turning on aluminum, brass, copper, and mild or annealed steels can be done without a coolant but a lubricant can make it significantly easier to get a good cut, A lot of times I just use a spray can of silicone lubricant dire4ctly on the cut as it is being cut or thread tapping oil applied with a brush just ahead of the cut. I've also used automatic transmission fluid on almost all materials with good results, but it tends to get a bit smoky at higher speeds where heat and pressure are a factor.