Atlas lathe question

[Displaced Canadian]

I have an opportunity to get a Craftsman/Atlas metal lathe. Price isn't an issue. I don't know the model. It's a screw cutting lathe? The ways look unused. The previous owners were very particular. I know nothing about metal lathes, does anybody know what or how it is and what it's like to work with. It does have the tool post.

 

[mredburn]

I have Atlas lathes. I sold my 12in CRaftsman/Atlas but use a 10 inch and 6 inch daily. That looks like the 12in model I just sold. The gears are for threading, there should be a chart inside the gear cover that swings out. It will cut standard and millimeter pitches just fine for pens. IF you use it a lot buy a QCTP for it.

 

[frank123]

Lots of those things out there, they made essentially the same models for many years.


Parts for them are fairly easy to find if needed, but be sure to get one complete with a full set of change gears since buying them individually after the fact can get a bit expensive. Don't know how much use -and wear- it has but make sure the half nuts (they engage the lead screw to the carriage for threading and fine feeding) are in decent shape or check to see if they are available before you buy it. I have a smaller version of that lathe made in the 1940's and had to make a new set of half nuts because I couldn't find any available at the time I needed them. Check to see if the spindle bearings are good, if they're taper bearings there isn't much problem finding new ones, but bushing bearings used on the earlier models will probably need to be made (not hard, but takes a bit of knowledge to do it right).

Working with it is pretty much the same as working with any metal lathe, it's more the operator than the machine that determines how difficult it is when using older metal lathes of an kind. I consider most of the Atlas/Craftsman stuff I've seen to be light duty lathes, but I haven't seen enough of them to make any general statement about them.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

If I measure right it is a 10" lathe. I don't think it's been used much. The original owner won it in a contest. How does one check the half nuts?

 

[Displaced Canadian]

The spindle bearing doesn't seem to have any slop in it. It has a sticker on it saying it has Timken bearings. There is an oil cap above the bearing.

 

[mredburn]

Sounds good. Check the lead screw to see if the corners of the threads are completely rounded off. Half nuts are still available from Atlas and off Ebay. You may have to remove the lead screw but there are two machine screws next to the engagement lever that hold the half nut retainer on.

 

[frank123]

If I measure right it is a 10" lathe. I don't think it's been used much. The original owner won it in a contest. How does one check the half nuts?

Make sure they engage properly with little or no slop, that they don't allow a lot of back and forth wiggle of the carriage when engaged or jump out while the carriage is traveling, and a good visual inspection to see obvious wear.

If you have the opportunity, use the lathe to fine thread a couple of different rods in several passes to see if it produces decent threads or looks like it is reengaging at slightly different points.

There's probably a more acceptable and precise procedure for doing it, but that's the way I approach it. Something that is bad or heavily worn usually makes itself obvious.

 

[mredburn]

Handles are $50.00 each as a rule of thumb if you have a broken one

 

[frank123]

The spindle bearing doesn't seem to have any slop in it. It has a sticker on it saying it has Timken bearings. There is an oil cap above the bearing.

Timkens are roller bearings (like the wheel bearings on your car) and as long as they are smooth they should be good. A relatively easy replacement part and procedure if or when they ever need replacing. If they have an oil cap, be sure to keep it oiled when you're using it and they'll probably outlast you.

 

[frank123]

Handles are $50.00 each as a rule of thumb if you have a broken one

Yeah, but the nice thing about having metal working machinery is that you can always just make your own.

Of course, if you're a machine purist, it isn't original anymore if you do.

 

[mredburn]

Does it come with a bench or is on legs?

 

[mredburn]

I also added a handle to the end of the lead screw so I can control those short cuts I end up making on pen parts. I end up making lots of cuts that are only 3-4mm long (.115-.200) I find it easier to do it by hand then engage the lever and have to disengage it almost immediatly.

 

[mredburn]

There are lots of chuck options for this lathe as well. It is a 1 1/2 x 8 thread. Beal makes a collet chuck to fit. You can buy a cheap 4 jaw scroll chuck for turning square wood stock round if you want to.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

No bench, it's just on a counter right now. The motor isn't hooked up, just sitting behind it. It does have 1 broken handle. Broke last time it was moved. Does the motor mount to the lathe or to the bench behind it?

 

[mredburn]

THE motor can mount to a couple of places likely it was bolted to a bench. My 10 inch has a bracket that is bolted to the front leg. There is a version that uses a bracket to attach to the lathe bed. IT will be easier and cheaper to bolt it to what ever you mount it on. The bench it bolts to should be as sturdy as you can make it and then some. Any flex in what ever it gets bolted to will show up as your trying to make cuts.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

The corners on the lead screw are quite square. The carriage feels very solid. I know the lathe hasn't been used in the last 15 years. The original owner was a civil engineer and a serious tinkerer. I don't think it has seen a lot of use. I'm going to have to build a new top for the work bench.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

What are the two handles for on the far left? One lever, the other is attached to a set of gears on the inside.

 

[mredburn]

The one with the gears inside the cover engages the lead screw for cutting, It makes the apron move. The one on top engages/disengages the belt for changing speeds mostly.

 

[mredburn]

IF there is a chart on the inside of the cover it will have the gear positions and combinations for threading and finish cutting.

 

[mredburn]

the knob on the apron is the power cross feed.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

I should have taken the tape measure with me the first time, it's a 12 inch. I could be wrong but there looks like a bracket on the back to mount the motor on. Can't really get a picture of it. The lathe is from 1958? Give or take a year or two.

 

[mredburn]

Dont worry about the age, parts interchange

 

[mredburn]

did you get it?

 

[Displaced Canadian]

Short answer is yes. Pretty sure I'll be taking it home depending on weather. The original owner was my wife's Grandfather. My Father in law has it now and he really hasn't had a chance to use it and he said if I want it I could have it. I think I want it. :biggrin: Now to get it home and into the shop. I mainly wanted to be sure it didn't have any big issues. It has a lot of sentimental value. It was won as a prize in the Mobil gas economy run.

 

[mredburn]

Congratulations. You would be a fool not to take it.

 

[Paul in OKC]

The one with the gears inside the cover engages the lead screw for cutting, It makes the apron move. The one on top engages/disengages the belt for changing speeds mostly.

The one on the gears will also let you select forward or reverse direction for feeding. Nice looking lathe!

 

[Displaced Canadian]

Luckily Everything that originally came with it is still with it. Just have to find what box the manual is in. Going to pack it up today. Going to have a lot of questions in the near future.