Stabilized Blanks with Cactus Juice

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Harpazo

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May 8, 2014
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137
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Central Ohio
These are from my first batch of stabilized blanks and I'm pleased with the results. I'm almost at sea level so resin penetration should be good. I figured at some point that I'd like to start selling these to help make ends meet. It turns very nicely and is consistent throughout the blank.

Both photos are the same set of 5. I rotated them 180 degrees to show all sides Let me know what you think. Would you make a pen with this wood? Any likes and dislikes about this are fair game. I'd much rather know how you feel. Don't like the color? Would it look better dyed, double-dyed? Please say so.

Without any further ado...
 

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hcpens

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Apr 7, 2013
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San Antonio, TX
They look good, and yes I wood make pens from them. I have been stabilizing wood blanks and chunks of wood dried in a toaster oven for hours. Use on Cactus Juice and a vacuum chamber from Turn-Tex. Enjoy and good turning.
 

MesquiteMan

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Oct 18, 2005
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San Marcos, TX, USA.
I'm almost at sea level so resin penetration should be good.

Just one bit of corrections for others that might read this...elevation above sea level has nothing to do with penetration of the resin. You will be able to pull a deeper vacuum at your elevation than someone in Denver but the person in Denver has less air in their blanks to begin with so they don't need as deep of a vacuum. The results will be the same at the end of the day!
 

Harpazo

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Joined
May 8, 2014
Messages
137
Location
Central Ohio
I'm almost at sea level so resin penetration should be good.

Just one bit of corrections for others that might read this...elevation above sea level has nothing to do with penetration of the resin. You will be able to pull a deeper vacuum at your elevation than someone in Denver but the person in Denver has less air in their blanks to begin with so they don't need as deep of a vacuum. The results will be the same at the end of the day!

This is great for a couple of reasons. First, It's nice to know that I'm not getting it wrong. Second, I'm planning a trip away from Ohio cold and snow and heading for the warm south. If I get the urge to stabilize some wood in Arizona I'll be good to go. :rotfl:
 

SteveG

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Dec 21, 2009
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Eugene, Oregon 97404
Since you stated that you are wanting to stabilize, and then sell blanks, I want to provide useful feedback. Of course, this is one man's opinion.

The blanks I see here, for the most part, do not look like they do not need stabilizing. As far as the condition and suitability of these blanks for pen turning, they look as though they could be turned as unstabilized blanks with no problems. Why would someone pay a premium for something they do not need? So I suggest that you find wood with wild-and-crazy grain and/or burl grain, and stabilize that. Buckeye burl, for example, is a good wood to start with. That wood is beautiful but not readily turnable unless it is stabilized. Some Maple buris are both wild and beautiful, but also "punky". Your work with the "Juice" would enhance the product, and you could get the appropriate selling price to pay for your efforts. Beyond that, single and double dying adds a LOT of eye appeal to many woods, especially burls, due to their high variability in dye absorption.

So there you have some of my views, which directly translate into how and where I spend my hard earned dollars on great wood pen blanks. I hope this is helpful for you.
 

Harpazo

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Joined
May 8, 2014
Messages
137
Location
Central Ohio
I don't see how Ohio is anywhere near sea level.

I'll have to look that up.

LOL

I'm not sure why The Penguin thinks this is funny. I am interested in stabilizing wood. Why the ridicule? I'm trying to learn from others and share my experiences. That's the only reason I'm here on IAP.

BTW, Thank you SteveG for being honest and decent.
 

robutacion

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Aug 6, 2009
Messages
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Location
Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Well, allowed me some observations to what I read so far,

Firstly, welcome to the world of wood stabilizing, I do my fair use of the Cactus Juice and so far so good.

When comes to stabilizing, there are a few rules that are pretty much common to all of us, the stabilisation process has a learning curve, and every aspect of it has been well discussed and documented on IAP however, if you have any specific questions, I would be more than happy to assist you.

Part of the essence of wood stabilizing and its costs, is very directly related to what the use is going to be used for, for example, 95% of knife makers, will only use stabilized wood, regardless of the woods natural density, and as you may understand, there are very good reasons why, a knife made with a properly stabilized wood blank, will last a lot longer and will look good for much longer than any raw wood with any type of finish (exceptions do apply...!)

As for pen blanks, if you make your own blanks that you use to make your own pens, is really up to you if you want to have the expense and time of stabilizing woods that, do not need stabilizing. On the other side of the spectrum, you have the blanks that have great features and grains but, are either very spalted, or very decomposed that, are pretty much unworkable without some sort of hardening, stabilizing does really shine in this case, transforming pieces of wood into beautiful pens, bowls or any other items where the option would be the dump, most of this wood is useless as firewood, also...!

If you are stabilizing with the intention so sell some or all the blanks you do, I strongly suggest that you make a rigorous selection of what you've got in woods/blanks and determine which ones are "worth" to stabilize. I mean worth because, there is a cost to stabilizing, for some of us, that cost is considerable, you certainly don't want the spend your juice and time, stabilizing blanks that, have nothing to go for them, there is, do not have any qualities that would justify the cost and time of stabilization, and try to sell them, you may be able to at almost a give away price, that will put you in the "red" in a flash...!

There are many ways people see wood but, if you are considering stabilizing to recover your costs and make a little money, you need to learn what are the woods that will give the best return for you money and time., the person buying them, will certainly look for something that will justify the extra cost, which in my case is of approx. AU$1.50 per blank for the stabilization and blank's presentation/finish, as that is what your customer will see...!

As before, if you have any questions in relation to correct wood selection for stabilization purposes, you are welcome to ask...!

There is no need to get all "fired up" with comments that are not offensive, try to interpret what you read before you say something that you may regret, after all, IAP is well known to be friendly, accommodating, welcoming and very generous with the knowledge sharing so, think of what others will think of you, reading your unnecessary comments/responses, that are not really, called for...!

Take this, as a friendly and honest piece of advice from someone that has been on all sides of the fence and likes to keep the peace among friends...!

Best of luck...!

Cheers
George
 
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wyone

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Jul 16, 2014
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15314 Grasslands, Parker, CO 80134
As always... a wealth of information from George. I have a small set up that I plan to use to stabilize a few spalted blanks with. I of course bought Cactus Juice! I just have to get a toaster oven, so I do not have to explain things to the wife. I also have to decide if I want to use any dye or just stabilize with clear for now. Sigh.. the more I learn, the more I want to learn. :)
 
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