TBC (no mandrel req'd) bushings!

[Mack C.]

Specifically, I'm looking for the 5 pc. bushing set for the Flat Top American pen.

I know a couple of IAP vendors are carrying TBC bushings similar to those that johnnycnc used to turn, but neither are carrying my two favorite sets; namely the FT American and the Perfect Fit.

As an aside issue, if you have any other TBC (no mandrel req'd) bushings that you care to dispose of, kindly pm me with the type and your asking price.

Thanks for your time!

 

[toddlajoie]

Mack, Have you tried turning with no bushings? It works fantastically well, if not slower than with the bushings. I do it for all the kits that are just not popular enough to have someone make bushings for... Heck, event the kits that I have bushings for I only use to get the size close, then remove the bushings and finish just between centers with a pair of calipers. The bushings can make rounding from square a bit less stressful, but in that case, you don't need specific ones for the kit, just ones that fit the tubes...

In the end, with the calipers and no bushings I found fit and finish will took a huge leap forward...

 

[Mack C.]

Mack, Have you tried turning with no bushings? It works fantastically well, if not slower than with the bushings. I do it for all the kits that are just not popular enough to have someone make bushings for... Heck, event the kits that I have bushings for I only use to get the size close, then remove the bushings and finish just between centers with a pair of calipers. The bushings can make rounding from square a bit less stressful, but in that case, you don't need specific ones for the kit, just ones that fit the tubes...

In the end, with the calipers and no bushings I found fit and finish will took a huge leap forward...

Hi Todd;
I'm somewhat adverse to fooling around with calipers, as well as mandrels. I also loathe putting a live and dead center into the brass tube to turn the pen. So this leaves me with mcgivering a set of bushings to turn round. Excuses, excuses, excuses; I just want a set of johnnycnc's bushings.

Due to some past and recent health issues I sold off all my mandreless bushings. Regrets, I have a few!:biggrin:

I very satisfied with my CA finishes, and have demonstrated my method at our wood club with some great feedback from the members!

Thanks for your advice in this regard! It is much appreciated.

 

[southernclay]

Hey Mack,
I've become very adverse to using mandrels. For the few I've turned lately that didn't have TBC bushings I either did what Todd suggested or if I had bushings held them in a scroll chuck and center drilled them to turn them into TBC. They had a little slop but got the job done. I finished between centers with no bushings, sanded down to final size due to the slop.

Maybe that helps....either way glad to hear you are going to get to do some more turning!

 

[dankc908]

I too have wanted to go to TBC but am wondering what has happened to Johnny CNC. His quality was the best.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I too have wanted to go to TBC but am wondering what has happened to Johnny CNC. His quality was the best.

Life and work have become too busy for him to be in much bushing production.

 

[Mack C.]

Hey Mack,
I've become very adverse to using mandrels. For the few I've turned lately that didn't have TBC bushings I either did what Todd suggested or if I had bushings held them in a scroll chuck and center drilled them to turn them into TBC. They had a little slop but got the job done. I finished between centers with no bushings, sanded down to final size due to the slop.

Maybe that helps....either way glad to hear you are going to get to do some more turning!

Hi Warren; Yes, I centre drill all of my bushings, where it is possible. Many pen kit suppliers only stock bushings that require a mandrel.

I use johnny's finishing Delrin bushings for my CA finish.

 

[jyreene]

Hi Warren; Yes, I centre drill all of my bushings, where it is possible. Many pen kit suppliers only stock bushings that require a mandrel. I use johnny's finishing Delrin bushings for my CA finish.

Mack, I may be wrong so please wait for confirmation, but you can use regular bushings as TBC bushings. I believe I've read somewhere that you don't even need to do anything to them but as far as I understand it if you use a 60 degree center drill bit you can turn a regular bushing into a TBC bushing. They may not be as accurate as ones those from Johnnycnc but until you find a a source they may suit you.

 

[southernclay]

Correct Ty, that's what I did, sorry Mack if didn't explain it correct.

I took a regular bushing set and center drilled the exterior side of each (that doesn't go in the tube)

I did this with a Diva and the discontinued Lock N Load bushings with no problem.

Wouldn't work well on some of PSI's bushings that are combined for the center bushing but for 2 and 4 piece bushing sets should work. Hope that makes sense. Sorry if I turned your wanted add into more of a discussion:biggrin:

 

[Mack C.]

Correct Ty, that's what I did, sorry Mack if didn't explain it correct.

I took a regular bushing set and center drilled the exterior side of each (that doesn't go in the tube)

I did this with a Diva and the discontinued Lock N Load bushings with no problem.

Wouldn't work well on some of PSI's bushings that are combined for the center bushing but for 2 and 4 piece bushing sets should work. Hope that makes sense.

Sorry if I turned your wanted add into more of a discussion:biggrin:

No problem, lots of ideas floating around! It's all good!

 

[Dale Allen]

Why not make your own bushings? I do!
I got some 1/2" 304 brass, from enco as I recall.
Cut pieces about the length of the ones Johnny makes.
Hold them in a chuck and drill the center with a 60 degree starter drill on both ends.
Now mount it between centers and true it round. Now cut down one end to what fits snug in the tube. Brass can be turned using HSS tools, just don't push it.
I've done this dozens of times and they last for a lot of pens. They will wear more than the steel but the wear is primarily on the center hole, not the part that fits into the brass tube.
I have found that the variations of the tube sizes from different sources made this necessary to get the precision I wanted...because I'm picky that way.
This same process can be used on delrin rod to make the glue bushings.

BTW, I usually make mine fit so snug that once they get a little bit warm I need to remove them with a pliers.

 

[Tom T]

Todd,
Do you put the brass tube only in the head and tail stock? Or some type of bushing?
My mandrel has been giving me issues keeping the roundness of the blank.
I tried only the brass tube, but was worried it would split or flair or something.
Sorry Mack for the hijack on this topic.

Mack if you have a local machine shop they can make you bushing to any size and spec you want. Bring them the specs from the instructions if it's a kit. It should not cost to much, though I have not gotten to my buddy's shop yet to find out.
Tom

 

[Mack C.]

Todd,
Do you put the brass tube only in the head and tail stock? Or some type of bushing?
My mandrel has been giving me issues keeping the roundness of the blank.
I tried only the brass tube, but was worried it would split or flair or something.

Sorry Mack for the hijack on this topic.

All parts of this discussion are helpful!

Mack if you have a local machine shop they can make you bushing to any size and spec you want. Bring them the specs from the instructions if it's a kit. It should not cost to much, though I have not gotten to my buddy's shop yet to find out.
Tom

Hi Tom; I took a stub MT2 arbour to have a standard ¼" thread tapped in the end. The charge -- $25.00, I should have asked "how much" first!

 

[Mack C.]

Why not make your own bushings? I do!
I got some 1/2" 304 brass, from enco as I recall.
Cut pieces about the length of the ones Johnny makes.
Hold them in a chuck and drill the center with a 60 degree starter drill on both ends.
Now mount it between centers and true it round. Now cut down one end to what fits snug in the tube. Brass can be turned using HSS tools, just don't push it.
I've done this dozens of times and they last for a lot of pens. They will wear more than the steel but the wear is primarily on the center hole, not the part that fits into the brass tube.
I have found that the variations of the tube sizes from different sources made this necessary to get the precision I wanted...because I'm picky that way.
This same process can be used on delrin rod to make the glue bushings.

BTW, I usually make mine fit so snug that once they get a little bit warm I need to remove them with a pliers.

Hi Dale; Great suggestion, one I have thought of many times.

I'm not that great with the precision the bushings would require.

Thanks for taking the time to offer up a suggestion!

 

[toddlajoie]

Todd,
Do you put the brass tube only in the head and tail stock? Or some type of bushing?
My mandrel has been giving me issues keeping the roundness of the blank.
I tried only the brass tube, but was worried it would split or flair or something.

Yes, just the tube glued into the blank between 60 degree centers. It doesn't take too much pressure from the tailstock to keep it turninng, and in the event of a catch, the blank will often stop spinning rather than self destruct (HUGE benefit, not that I'VE EVER had that problem...:biggrin You do get some ever so slight flairing on the end of the brass, but it has NEVER been anything that would affect the kit or parts fitting, and because of this you need to slightly tighten the tailstock as you turn a bit, because the flairing will loosen the fit a bit... As with everything, SHARP tools help, as the harder you press, the more you have to tighten the tailstock which will eventually cause the blank to crack...

I finish ALL my pens straight between centers, and for kits that I don't have TBC bushings I go from square to done 100% this way. TBC bushings for me just make rounding from square and getting close to size easier and quicker.

If you want to give it a shot, I would suggest grabbing a few extra tubes (most of us have several dozen of these hanging around...) and glue them in some scrap wood (again, most of us have some sort of supply of this type) and give it a whirl. Kits with a lot of meat on them (like Cigars & Sierra Vistas) are probably the easiest to start on. Slims, because they are so small, take some getting used to, and kits with very little material left after the tube (like the El Grande) take a bit of care when you get near the end and you have to be careful the pressure doesn't crack the thin material...

 

[Tom T]

Mack and Todd,
Thank you for your help, this has been great for me. $25.00 bucks is expensive compaired to on line. I hope it worked really well. But on line was not an option.
Todd as you say extra tubs,Yes. Extra cheap blanks yes again. I will give it a shot.
Hope to get turning this next week.
Thanks again
Tom