Your prefered PR tool?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

philb

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2007
Messages
1,561
Location
Midlands, United Kingdom.
Hi,

Just wondering what everyone uses for turning down there PR blanks?

I find a scraper flies through Acyclic blanks, but not PR. Have tried a WoodChuck with R2 & R4 insert, but just don't seem to be able to get a fast and smooth cut. It does give a great finish, but seems to cut a lot slower than I was expecting, also it seems to chip out the PR at even the slight hint of it not being a perfect angle. Maybe my expectations were too high?

Any other tools that can get a PR blank down quick and smooth, like a gauge to wood or a scraper to Acrylic?!

PHIL
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

randyrls

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
4,829
Location
Harrisburg, PA 17112
I use a carbide tipped tool but the bevel angle on the tip makes a big difference in the cutting action.

The tip on the top tool is good for peeling wood blanks almost faster than you can blink. Notice the sharp bevel? But, on an acrylic blank it tends to pit and chip out the acrylic. The bottom bit will peel ribbons off the hardest Trustone or M3 blank, but leaves a rough surface on wood blanks.





If you want to use a scraper, grind a negative rake into the cutting edge, or use it below center line. I normally don't do this, so it is just hear-say.
 

mrcook4570

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
4,098
Location
Mason, WV, USA.
For brittle materials, I start with the Rotondo (round carbide insert).

A negative rake scraper is also very effective, but gets dull too fast. I have a small negative rake scraper that I use for any fine detail work.

A gouge will work to remove the material quickly. Not smoothly, but the end user will never see how smooth your roughing cuts are. The only cut that really matters is the last cut.
 

philb

Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2007
Messages
1,561
Location
Midlands, United Kingdom.
I have a carbide similar to both pics posted. The lower round model takes very fine ribbons, but would take an eternity to get from a square blank down to say a Sierra sized barrel?

And the square takes it of steadily, but is always looking to chip out! maybe a longer handle would resist the tools urge to be pulled down and into the blank?
 

KenV

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2005
Messages
4,720
Location
Juneau, Alaska.
If you are used to quickly "buzzing" off material, perhaps you need to raise your percentage of expected failures, or plan on going slowly. Snake skin blanks are the ones that can be a challenge for me.

I get the ends rounded with a hunter style carbide, riding the bevel as much as possible. And then it is lower risk of big chips breaking out for me.

Listen for the "buzzzzz" of chipping. That is the sound that says slow down and get a sharper edge.
 

Carl Fisher

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Messages
2,761
Location
Cape Coral, FL
I typically just use my spindle gouge for bulk removal and then finish it off with a carbide tool. Just make sure whatever you use is sharp and take very light cuts.
 

rekab

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2012
Messages
18
Location
DFW
I've been wondering this same thing. I was trying to use my woodchuck but I get close to finished size and wind up snagging a big chunk no matter how lightly I try to touch. Maybe it's my angle?
 

mbroberg

IAP Activities Manager, Emeritus
Joined
Mar 9, 2009
Messages
5,959
Location
Columbus, OH
I really dislike sharpening tools. :mad: The over whelming majority of my pens, all materials, are turned with a Woodchuck. I don't have problems as a general rule but I have noticed that certain colors of PR tend to chip while other do not. As far as not taking the material off in a hurry, I'm not in a hurry so I guess I never noticed.:wink: If I am making a small piece, such as a section or finial I use a round carbide insert tool (Hunter Hercules).
 

Old Lar

Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2009
Messages
732
Location
Sturgis, SD
I use my long handled woodchuck for rounding to finishing. Just don't get in too be a hurry. I lose one now and then, but not very many. I think the longer woodchuck with a long handle helps keep it from gouging our chips.
I have to try something different for snake skin though, I still have trouble with them.
 

rekab

Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2012
Messages
18
Location
DFW
Square carbide on edge like the skew for me too.:) Ted

Are you suggesting to turn it on edge similar to this angle:
penmake36.jpg


I was under the impression this was dangerous to use a tool similar to a woodchuck in this manner? Maybe I'm wrong but I thought I read something about it placing pressure on the insert in an unsafe manner. If its the way to go ill give it a shot but a high speed chunk of carbide isn't what I had in mind for face accessories :cool:
 

randyrls

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2006
Messages
4,829
Location
Harrisburg, PA 17112
but a high speed chunk of carbide isn't what I had in mind for face accessories :cool:

I had not heard that before...

Always wear at least goggles, and a full face shield if appropriate.
I built a "shroud" that covers the pen blank with lexan and keeps anything from flying into my face. I copied the design from TexDurango (?).
 

TDE

Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
258
Location
Tuckerman Ar.
Thats exactly how I do it. I haven't heard anything about not doing that. If it's dangerous I will quit, but it sure works well for me. How about it you guys that have been at this for a long time? Thanks, Ted:)
 

Tom T

Member
Joined
May 12, 2012
Messages
1,883
Location
Sanford Florida
Roughing gouge most of the way down. Then I sand to long.
Also have had trouble with the two sided barrel trimmer. Wants to break out the whole end. On both acrylic and PR. Got lucky did not need the end. 4 side barrel trimmer worked much better.
 

InvisibleMan

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Messages
716
Location
San Jose, CA
If I keep my roughing gouge sharp I often don't even use the skew. I'll often use a square blank as backing for a piece of wet 220 abranet and sand out ridges that way instead of risking a skew if the gouge did a good enough job.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom