Worthless wood finish

[cowchaser]

Just looking around at the recent worthless wood casts that are coming out and seeing some of the finished ones got me to thinking and searching posts.

Now keep in mind I don't cast and have never turned one. How are you guys finishing these? First instinct would say CA, but I can also see where maybe just wet sanded like an acrylic.

Anyways just curious for my own knowledge gain.

 

[karlkuehn]

For me, it depends on the wood. If it was punky enough to stabilize well, then it can be wetsanded, but if it's still 'pure' wood, then the transition between the resin and the wood can get tricky.

Most of the time, I just turn the wood down a frogs hair past where I want it to be, do a CA/BLO layer (BLO first to pop/clean the grain) and then a couple layers of CA over that, thick enough to buff without cutting through.

 

[toolcrazy]

Originally posted by karlkuehn

For me, it depends on the wood. If it was punky enough to stabilize well, then it can be wetsanded, but if it's still 'pure' wood, then the transition between the resin and the wood can get tricky.

Most of the time, I just turn the wood down a frogs hair past where I want it to be, do a CA/BLO layer (BLO first to pop/clean the grain) and then a couple layers of CA over that, thick enough to buff without cutting through.

Karl,
This is all well and good for those that use CA, but I don't. Can't stand the fumes and I have other issues with it. I can stand it just long enough to glue the tubes. Are there any other options? I use water base poly IE Enduro. I've been avoiding mixed casts because of this issue. Any ideas?

 

[karlkuehn]

Hmmm, I've never tried Enduro. Does it build well like CA?

Ron Sardo gave me a bunch of Unaxol a while back that I've not messed with, but apparently it's snoot friendly too. I'll have to break it out and try it.

I guess you could use lacquer too, but that's as stinky as CA. What about a wipe on poly? I know that builds well, have you worked with it? You can get that in acrylic base, too.

 

[barrels]

The WW can be finished most any way...I think you would want to address the wood part more so than the PR. The PR will be pretty plyable to any finish. You could do a standard sanding followed by MM then a sanding sealer followed by Enduro or do a Lacquer finish wipe a few coats and buff the pen out. I just finished a blank of Karls and by the time I finish MM the blank was certainly able to be finished in Enduro from where I was in the finishing process.

I hope this made sense

 

[stevers]

It is a little more work, but I have been experimenting more with double casting. Meaning, cast the worthless wood, turn under the bushings, plug the ends like a label cast job and re-cast the blank in clear PR. (or alumilite) Then re-turn it and finish with MM or buffing. This gives a perfect PR or Alumilite finish that looks like it's an inch thick. And it eliminates the issue with the wood and resin holding the finish differently. I've done 3 or 4 and I am getting to near perfection on the finish end of the equation. There are a couple of little quirks that have to be allowed for. So far it produces a beautiful, deep shine and really brings out the wood or PR underneath.

Look for my latest in the "Show Off" forum. I'll post it later this eve. It'll be titled "Double cast earth euro".

 

[toolcrazy]

Originally posted by karlkuehn

Hmmm, I've never tried Enduro. Does it build well like CA?

Ron Sardo gave me a bunch of Unaxol a while back that I've not messed with, but apparently it's snoot friendly too. I'll have to break it out and try it.

I guess you could use lacquer too, but that's as stinky as CA. What about a wipe on poly? I know that builds well, have you worked with it? You can get that in acrylic base, too.

Unaxol is water based lacquer. I have some too. Hopefully it will warm up soon so I can try a few casts. I have some Unaxol, I haven't tried it. Been too cold to turn anything but acrylics. THX

 

[ElMostro]

I too am a bit sensitive to CA so for some blanks once I finish turning I apply a sanding sealer let it dry/cure then start sanding with 600 up to 12000mm, then re-apply sanding sealer let dry/cure and sand again just with MM up to 12000. After that I use a palstic polish and thats it.

Eugene

 

[follow3]

Hey toolcrazy,

I have been wondering the very same thing about Enduro, but have never tried Enduro, and don't have any.

I do have a bunch of hybrid blanks though. How about I send you a couple of blanks that I recently cast and you experiment with the Enduro and post a pic or two of the results?

If you want to give it a try, PM me with your address and I will send you a package. I have a couple of other packages going out later this week anyhow.

Thanks,
Steve

Originally posted by toolcrazy

Originally posted by karlkuehn

For me, it depends on the wood. If it was punky enough to stabilize well, then it can be wetsanded, but if it's still 'pure' wood, then the transition between the resin and the wood can get tricky.

Most of the time, I just turn the wood down a frogs hair past where I want it to be, do a CA/BLO layer (BLO first to pop/clean the grain) and then a couple layers of CA over that, thick enough to buff without cutting through.

Karl,
This is all well and good for those that use CA, but I don't. Can't stand the fumes and I have other issues with it. I can stand it just long enough to glue the tubes. Are there any other options? I use water base poly IE Enduro. I've been avoiding mixed casts because of this issue. Any ideas?

 

[Sfolivier]

"I have been wondering the very same thing about Enduro, but have never tried Enduro, and don't have any."

I use Enduro most of the time as I can't stand Ca fumes. It builds pretty well (I believe it's about 20% solids). It just takes a while to dry the layers and most people apply them too fast (which means you are still stripping the inner layer) and interfere with a good buildup. Overall, it's a lot slower than CA but it works great on almost anything I have tries. Now that I have a couple of mandrels I have the "patience" to wait for my Enduro finishes to cure longer and it does help a lot. I usually apply 3-5 coats of sealer, wait overnight, sand to MM12000, apply 3-10 coats of gloss topcoat, wait at least overnight and then sand to MM12000.