working with/finishing hippo ivory?

[jskeen]

Just about to start on my most ambitious project to date, planning to do a pair of ebony and ivory jr. gents. Both will start out as rollerball, but I plan to be able to convert one to FP if a buyer wants a set. Question is, how best to finish the ivory for the caps? Most of the info I've seen says to sand then renwax, and supply some renwax with the pen so it can be reapplied. Anybody have any direct experience with hippo ivory over time? Also, what's the opinion on sanding to 12,000 mm and then applying renwax, vs sanding, buffing, then renwaxing? would the wax in the white diamond interfere with the initial coat of renwax? Would it be preferable to an initial coat of renwax?

Also I usually drill jr gents with the 12.5mm bit and use thick CA, but am considering using a 1/2 in bit (0.008 in larger) and using white gorilla glue to give it a little flexibility and hopefully prevent the existing cracks in the tooth from opening up.

 

[gerryr]

Lou (DCBluesman) is your best bet for information on working with ivory. From my experience working with bone, you don't want the tubes to be a tight fit, and I recommend spending some time sanding the press-in parts down to further reduce the possibility of cracking the material when you assemble.

You've chosen to combine two very difficult materials in a single pen. I hope you're successful.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Hippo 'ivory' would be tooth material rather than tusk stuff.
My first thought would be to work slowly and v-e-r-r-r-y patiently so as to not build up heat and invite cracks. The opinion to fine sand, buff and wax seems appropriate. Former member here, Eagle, once did some wart hog tusk. As I recall, he said it was very difficult stuff to turn. Tooth material also. Do a search, there may be a thread on his experience.