Working with Acrylic Blanks

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gwlundgren

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Mar 15, 2014
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I am new to this and just started doing some acrylics.

What is best type of drill bit for drilling the barrel? I tried a standard bit. That seems to crack out the blank making it useless. Trying brad point bits now. Drilling acrylics seems a slow process and it's harder than wood and heats up the bit, and the material. Seems I must go slow to avoid over heating material and risking cracks or break outs. Any tips on that? or just have patience?

Does any particular turning chisel work best for making the blank smooth before starting sanding and buffing process? Skew chisel?

Any resources I should read? Seems there's a ton of stuff out there, but don't know what will be best.

Thanks! Gary
 
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keithbyrd

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Acrylic at times is fun and at other it can be very frustrating! There are lots of "kinds" of acrylics - some hard brittle like rhinoplastic and some soft like mutt amalgums from Bear Tooth Woods. Simple tips - make sure your bits are sharp. I find brad point tends to chip the end more than the other bits. Go slow - clean the bit out frequently. I keep my vacuum handy and every 1/4-1/2 inch I back out and clean off. Mark your bits to the length of the blank you are drilling - that way when you get close to the end you can ease up. I still use a drill press most of the time just because its quicker but if I am really looking for dead center accuracy I use the lathe.
I use a heavy bowl scraper most of the time (sharp) to do my rounding and then use carbide pen tool for turning. Almost never have to use anything rougher than 400 grit to start sanding.

Turn a lot and have fun!
 

longbeard

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Patience
I sometimes may spay a dab of water with dish washing detergent in the hole to keep it cool. I use a regular drill bit. Drill about 1/4 to 1/2", backing it out to clean the chips out. You may want to put a piece of wood under your blank, that will keep it from blowing out.
I use carbide tool, square with a radius, for all my blank turning.



Harry
 
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Edgar

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Slow & patience.

I do all my blank drilling on a drill press, but I have a good quality, floor-mount DP with a squared up table. I put the blank (wood or acrylic) in a pen vise & use a brad point bit. I drill deep enough for the tube + 1/8" then cut it with a band saw. If it's a 2-part kit, I put the rest of the blank back in the pen vise & repeat. If it's a 2-part with different bit sizes, I drill the smaller one first, then the larger.

With acrylics, I only drill about 1/4" at a time - then clean the hole & bit and do that just 2 or 3 times depending on the blank, then go off & do something else for a couple of minutes while the bit & blank cool. Repeat until done. I only make a few pens per week, so I can afford to take my time.

Works for me - I haven't ruined a blank while drilling in the several months that I've used this technique.

I use a square carbide tool with R2 corners for turning both wood & acrylic. Usually I start from a square blank, but sometimes I'll knock down the corners on a sander - especially if it's a nice blank that I don't want to chance messing up with a tool catch.
 
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randyrls

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What is best type of drill bit for drilling the barrel?

Use a standard twist bit. It must be sharp. I use the cut long, drill short and cut to length.

  1. Lay the tubes against the blank and position so you have at least 1/4" extra at each end and the saw kerf in the middle. Draw a cross on the cut line and along the blank like this "+".
  2. Now cut the blank on the line.
  3. Mount the blank so you drill from the center toward the end. Remember the cross? Mark the tube length on the drill bit. Drill the blank to the depth mark and a bit deeper. Don't break through the end of the blank.
  4. Now mark the exact length on the blank and cut off the end on the saw. Use caution and cut only the un-drilled end. Remember the cross?
This takes a few extra steps, but I never lose a blank while drilling.


Does any particular turning chisel work best for making the blank smooth before starting sanding and buffing process? Skew chisel?

I round off the corners of the blank with a drum sander. I normally use the lower tool carbide cutter on acrylics. See this post for more details.

You may also want to paint the inside of the blank with spray paint. Some acrylics are not opaque and the brass tube may show thru. White or the same color as the blank.
 

fisher

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Feb 7, 2014
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Yup don't go all the way through the blank.I've had problem's with acrylic blowing out on the end of the drilled hole.So now i measure the blank ,ad 1/4''or so .I now only drill to the end barley out of the blank.
Slow and Slow ,Real Crazy Sharp Tool's a must .
I've only done a few myself.i learned by breaking and breaking .Now i break less and get better result's.
 

robutacion

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Aug 6, 2009
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Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
I am new to this and just started doing some acrylics.

What is best type of drill bit for drilling the barrel? I tried a standard bit. That seems to crack out the blank making it useless. Trying brad point bits now. Drilling acrylics seems a slow process and it's harder than wood and heats up the bit, and the material. Seems I must go slow to avoid over heating material and risking cracks or break outs. Any tips on that? or just have patience?

Does any particular turning chisel work best for making the blank smooth before starting sanding and buffing process? Skew chisel?

Any resources I should read? Seems there's a ton of stuff out there, but don't know what will be best.

Thanks! Gary

G'day Gary,

There are many details in your question, and some of them have already been mentioned by other members however, in my experience, the quality and type of the drill bit, is the major factor for success, have a look here and see what I'm talking about...!

Cheers
George
 

plantman

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Green Bay, Wi
All of the above should help you. I start with a smaller drill bit and work my way up. You could also glue a scrap piece to your blank and drill. Than cut off the extra on the band saw. PSI and other venders here are offering drill bits designed for Acrylics. They have a steeper angle of entry and a bullet shaped bit end for smoother cuts and less chatter as you drill. Jim S
 

eranox

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Sep 12, 2012
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Killeen, TX
Like the others, I assume that a blowout near the end is a certainty. I leave my barrels 1/4 to 1/2 inch long to avoid this. Don't drill all the way through, and then cut the un-drilled excess off the end. When I drill on the lathe, I start with a bit that's a couple of sizes (1/32" for me) smaller than my target size, and I don't baby it. Heat builds up whether you're boring into fresh material or just spinning your tires, so I try to drill quickly, and back out to dump chips every 1/4" or so. I use a spray lubricant to keep the heat and noise down. While this may sound like a bad idea (poor glue adhesion, etc.), I then redrill the hole with a bit 1/64th bigger with no lubricant, and finally move up another 64th of an inch to final diameter. These cuts remove just a hair of extra material and all the lubricant with it. Since there's little material to go through, the heat isn't bad. I can get what little extra material there is to drill out in 1 continuous pass with the larger bits, and this leaves me with a cleaner hole, no blowouts, and no melted and smeared acrylic on the walls of the hole.

When turning, I use a 1/2" round nose scraper almost exclusively. It is the cheap, non-HSS Harbor Freight tool. Oddly enough, I find that a slightly dull edge (1 or 2 previous pens since sharpening) works best! In any case, do not use a tool with a burr; the angle of the burr makes the acrylic try to pull the tool into it. I've turned through the whole barrel and hit brass before I knew what was happening! :eek:

I first knock off the corners with some rough sandpaper at low speed. This reduces chipping later. Then, the lathe gets turned up to max speed, and I begin making SLOW light passes with the round nose scraper. This gets the tool and blank warmed up, which makes turning go much more smoothly. Once I have a cylinder, I take light cuts and move a bit more quickly. My goal is to make shavings that look like plastic Easter grass, if that makes sense. If my shavings begin to wad up and melt on the scraper, I back off for a few seconds or move to another area. Done right, I frequently have to stop the lathe to rip off a bird's nest of shavings that has accumulated. The kids go crazy for these shavings. I say they're not right, the wife says I'm paying for college anyway. :tongue:

If my scraper is too broad to get the detail I need, I use a skew scraper-style and take light passes, using the toe (yes!) to dig slightly into the material, and then push it along with the toe leading the way. Using the skew any other way on acrylic produces chatter for me. Don't try this on wood!

Done right, the barrels are almost glossy before sandpaper ever hits them. I can go straight to 600 grit MM, used wet with the lathe on LOW or med-low speed. Up through the grits to a reasonable number, then One-Step plastic polish or #2 Novus scratch remover--interchangeable in my experience. If I'm feeling froggy, a quick buff on the buffer finishes it off, but I just as often stop after the One-Step/Novus.
 
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Quality Pen

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I have had good success drilling on the lathe as far as minimal blowouts.

It takes me a long time - I figure WAY longer than most judging by what I see on youtube... but I back out a lot to clear the bit. I also found that some denatured alcohol on a cloth helps to cool the bit when I back it out.
 

Pen-Archer

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Mar 2, 2014
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All of the tips listed above are good tips. But if you are still having a lot of problems drilling acrylic blanks, there are special drill bits made specifically for drilling acrylic plastic. There are also instructions on Google for regrinding your standard drill bits to drill acrylic. Google "acrylic drill bits".
 

Dan Masshardt

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Jan 30, 2013
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Mechanicsburg, PA
I have no probs drilling through various acrylics on the lathe using regular brad points.

I leave them I little bit long and might have a little chip out but never blowouts that cause a real problem.

I guess I've just gotten lucky.
 

kovalcik

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Jun 9, 2011
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Barrington, NH
I usually use regular brad points for all my drilling without any problems. I picked up a couple of Colt bits at Woodcraft on clearance and they do a great job. I think a sharp bit and keeping the feed rate slow are the key.
 

gwlundgren

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Mar 15, 2014
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I did get the PSI acrylic bit. Works better than brad point. Comes thru the bottom end cleanly. Drills faster, but still not real fast, and I back it out occasionally to clear out flutes.
 

Allen_B

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Mar 16, 2014
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Huntsville, AL
I've had good luck so far by taking the air hose and constantly blowing on the drill bit and in the drilled hole while drilling. I go slow and clean it out about every .25 to .5 inch. I just turn them with a very sharp gouge and go about half as fast on them compared to wood blanks. If I get impatient I just use the tip of the skew.
 

lwalper

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Mar 16, 2014
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Lancaster, TN
Haven't tried the Colt bits, but a standard twist drill works best for me. I actually broke the brad tip off of a bit just as it began to contact the material. The acrylic bits with the steeper angle seem to work well -- and do use a bit of coolant (water with a bit of dish detergent added in a squirt bottle works well). You can then just rinse the detergent out with plain water. I then douse the blank in a bit of DNA to remove the water and a quick blast of air immediately dries the hole and preps it for glue.

I've also had better luck with epoxy than CA for gluing the tubes in place. I've used thick, medium thick, and thin, and don't seem to get a good glue spread and full contact with the CA. Have gone pretty much completely to epoxy for tube gluing, even in wood. If you use the 5 minute stuff, by the time you get cleaned up you're ready to turn. The glue might still not be fully cured - that takes a couple of hours - but it's definitely stiff enough to handle.
 
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DWulf

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Sep 10, 2013
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Belton, MO
I use the Colt parabolic drill bits and they've worked really well for me so far. I clear out every 1/2-1" (more frequently if I'm drilling something like Trustone or M3). I put a piece of scrap under the blank and almost always have clean exit holes, or I drill long enough for the tube and cut off the excess on the band saw like others have said. I also do a bunch of blanks at once, so I have 3-4 of each drill bit size and rotate through them one blank at a time. By the time I get back to the first bit, it's cool enough to use again. So far I've only blown out 2 blanks (knock on wood) - one when I wasn't paying attention and went back in too fast after clearing out, and the other the end of a M3 blank that got too hot.
 
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