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Old 05-14-2012, 11:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
jd99's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Ontario, CA United States
Photos: 1


Originally Posted by ed4copies View Post
Originally Posted by jd99 View Post
I am trying an experment right now with some Streamline pens, I make a lot of Corian and it cracks all the time.

Going to drill both ends of my blank a little over size maybe 9/32" down about 1/4" the use the ruberized CA Monty has, it is supposed to give a little: my hope are that when I press in the components the glue will assorb the expansion and not try to expand the corian.

Could work, might solve the wood cracking issue also.
CAUTION: CA will offgas and make the hardware look "foggy". I don't know about the "rubberized"--but test your plan before doing a "run" one night and seeing all your pens turn ugly!!
I'm talking about when I glue the tube in, in other words the two ends of the blank will be a little larger then the 7mm in the middle, so when I press in the components the tube will have space to expand, and the ruberized glue will compress, with out trying to expand the corian.

Its all theory right now.

Not talking about gluing the components in.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Jenks, Oklahoma
Photos: 7

Default mandrel?

Do you use a mandrel to turn your pens? Over the years, I have found that when tightening the nut to "hold it all together", when the blank sometimes slips. To compensate, I always used to tighten the nut tighter. When you do this, you are compressing and distorting the ends of the tube which deforms them and you run into cracking problems. Not always, but often enough to make you change the way you do things.

African Blackwood is a close relative to ebony. Ebony is the worst wood there is when pressing a pen together because more often that not it will crack or worse, it cracks the following day (s). I've found that this is in part due to getting the wood too hot when sanding, displacing the oil in the blank and in effect 'drying' it out. This in effect changes the characteristics of the wood and it will crack. My $0.02 worth
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Allen, Texas
Posts: 259
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I have a set of chucking readers in 1/16th inch increments. If I thinking might have a problem with splitting, I ream the inside of the tube. I've only done so a few times so far (don't turn that many small diameter thin walled pes), but I've had no splitting since.

A couple of adjustable readers would cover all pen sizes, and the would be, well, adjustable.

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Old 05-15-2012, 01:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Destin, FL
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I would definitely chamfer each end of the tubes after they have been turned. Also ensure the tube interior is completely clean and devoid of adhesive and paint. I haven't cracked a single pen since I started doing this.

To chamfer, you don't need to buy a special tool. I use a sharp exacto knife and just run it around the edge taking off about 1/64" or so material. I will also use the blade to scrape out the inside of the tube before assembly to ensure I don't have any built up glue.

Just my 2.
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