wish they would tell us these things

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Rifleman1776

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I just finished a European and had an unexpected problem during assembly. Normally, instructions say to insert the transmission a 1/4" past the circular indentation. Being cautious, I always only go about 1/8". Today, following that procedure I found the point when retracted would not go all the way back into the pen. Using the great, handy-dandy, pen dissasembly tool from Lamar Sherill, I took it apart and redid, this time only going to the indent and it worked. But the point barely was back in the pen. My next one I will insert the transmission up just up to about a 1/32nd" before the line. I buy my Euros from two sources, CSUSA and Beartooth and just toss all my kits into a common box. So I don't know which is which. But I do wish suppliers/manufacturers would include proper information with their kits to avoid unnecessary problems. On the upside, I used a blank that came from Bill Baumbeck of Arizona Silhouette (that's BB of AZ for those of you who speek acronymese [:p] ). The blank was desert ironwood. It is very hard but turned well even though it didn't like being skewed, had to use a gouge most of the time. Finished nicely and has a neat orange color to it. If he is just trying to tempt me to buy more of this stuff....it worked. :)
 
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tipusnr

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Thanks for the heads up. I hanven't built any of those yet and normally don't run into that sort of problem as I only press the transmission in until it seats straight and the start the "test and press" procedure that takes up most of my assembly time.

Who knows - someday I might actually have confidence in the instructions to short assembly time and then it would be nice to know which ones you can trust!!
 
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I've experienced that too, Frank, with the Europeans.
And, if you do any Patriots, the instructions say to scribe a line 13/16 from the brass end of the transmission and insert to that line. I learned the hard way to start checking well before that line is reached.
ken
 

DCBluesman

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I guess I ought to read the directions...I use Tip's method for all transmissions. Wait! Based on this experience maybe I SHOULDN'T read the directions.
 

low_48

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It might be dependant on if you use the short tube for the lower half, or the longer tube. I put the long tube on the bottom and I always have to set the transmission deep.

Rich
 

Mainebowlman

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ITFWIWD (In the for what it's worth department): I use a pre-sized block next to the lower half of the pen as I insert the transmission. The block is sized to allow the transmission to only go just so far. Then I insert the refill, twist to extension and see how much I need to tweak it. Next I put a piece of scotch tape on the shaft above the wood to mark the additional distance I want it to travel. That way I can see when I've reached the planned spot in advancing the transmission.

Since I've started using this method, I've not had any problems with mixing kits. As long as all the refills are the same length this should be foolproof for me. (Ah, but I've used those words before and eaten crow.)

Jack
 
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Well I have a different approach, but not original to me.

If you take a small block of wood and cut a 45° V shape in it and then cut that block exactly 4" long you have a transmission setting tool.

All Cross style refills are exactly the same length. The plastic end has a threaded area that screws into the end of the transmission. No matter what pen kit you are putting together, doesn't matter they style or the maker. The end of the transmission, when it is pushed into the lower section of the pen has to be 4" from the place where the tip of the refill comes out of the little hole.

You put the barrel of the pen in the V groove, the writing tip has to be on the barrel of course, and you start the transmission into the other end of the brass tube. Put them both on the pen press and press the transmission in until the 4" V block won't let the ram of the press travel any further.

No fiddling around checking and rechecking, measuring, squinting, tweaking, tape markers or anything else.

If this isn't clear, if someone wants pictures, just post here and I'll post pictures.
 

Paul in OKC

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Originally posted by Mac In Oak Ridge
<br />Well I have a different approach, but not original to me.

If you take a small block of wood and cut a 45° V shape in it and then cut that block exactly 4" long you have a transmission setting tool.

Ihave used a block for years. Same block for the 7mm kit. Mineis just under 4". Wprks great and don't have to worry about it[:)]
 
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Mac in Oak Ridge, it's late for me (at least that's waht I will use for an excuse) show pics. Thanks. I just got some Euro's and would like to have this before I begin.
 
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The problem with using the ring on the transmission as a point to set it by is that it doesn't provide for how long the lower pen barrel is. If you trim one exactly the length of the brass tube, one a tiny bit shorter and one way shorter all three pens will require the transmission to be set at different points.

With this method it doesn't matter how long the lower pen barrel is. This is pictures of a European style and a Slimline style. They have way different lengths of barrels but the transmission is the same in both pens. This method can be used for any pen that uses the Cross style refill.

You just put the barrel and transmission together and press the transmission in until the ram on the press hits the V-block. I find that the V-block being 4" long works for me. You may want to trim it a different lenght. Once you establish what is best for you then you don't have to fiddle around with pressing the transmission anymore. Just put it in the press and push it in place.

Try starting with a block 4 1/16" long, press a transmission check the fit of the refill and trim the V-block until you get it the length that suits you.

20054102561_V-Block-0011.jpg


200541025619_V-Block-0014.jpg
 

Daniel

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Some mighty nice wood your using for blocks there Mac. Let me loose in your shop and they mivht accidentaly become pens. I must be really sick though I understood the written directions. I guess your head has to be spinning just right.
 

Old Griz

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I buy my Euros from two sources, CSUSA and Beartooth and just toss all my kits into a common box. So I don't know which is which.
I just looked at Beartooth's website and they specifically state that the kits they sell are Berea kits... this could very well be part of your problem... pen kit parts from different manufacturers should not be stored together... you may find that the tubes from one manufacturer are a different length than the other manufacturer... which would account for the difference in final length of the mechanism if using the ring as a guide...
I always keep my kits separated by manufacturer...

It also sounds like you reversed the tubes and used the short tube for the bottom of the pen... that is the only way I can figure that the mechanism needs to be set before the indent guide ring...

Just my 2Cents on the way I do things... BTW, I no longer make any of the Cross Style Euro pens... or for that matter any Cross style pens at all... I found that the Parker refill Euros outsold them 10 to 1 and for some reason I can't give away slimline and streamline pens... It seems that as soon as the custome tries a pen with a Parker refill, he just does not want the Cross refill pens... hopefully the Elegant American with the Parker refills will sell as well.. they are just a tad bigger than the streamlines...
 

Thumbs

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Great solution with the V-block! [^] And separating by manufacturer seems to be another excellent idea, too!

But the real question?
What does iambic <b>PEN</b>tameter mean to <b>Jack</b> or <b>Mac</b>? [?]

Obviously, <b>NOTHING!</b> [:p][:D][:p][:D][:p]
 

Rifleman1776

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I didn't reverse the blanks (that time [:I] ). The new indent seemd to be just about the right seating depth if the blank is exactly the length it should be. But I am going to insert short and test regardless. Besides I may have an older kit in the box as new stuff gets tossed on top of existing. Interesting about the fussiness of your customers regarding refills. Until I got involved in the pen making madness I had, never in my life, give consideration to what kind of pen or refill I was using. Usually, if it was cheap and wrote I was happy.





Originally posted by Old Griz
<br />I buy my Euros from two sources, CSUSA and Beartooth and just toss all my kits into a common box. So I don't know which is which.
I just looked at Beartooth's website and they specifically state that the kits they sell are Berea kits... this could very well be part of your problem... pen kit parts from different manufacturers should not be stored together... you may find that the tubes from one manufacturer are a different length than the other manufacturer... which would account for the difference in final length of the mechanism if using the ring as a guide...
I always keep my kits separated by manufacturer...

It also sounds like you reversed the tubes and used the short tube for the bottom of the pen... that is the only way I can figure that the mechanism needs to be set before the indent guide ring...

Just my 2Cents on the way I do things... BTW, I no longer make any of the Cross Style Euro pens... or for that matter any Cross style pens at all... I found that the Parker refill Euros outsold them 10 to 1 and for some reason I can't give away slimline and streamline pens... It seems that as soon as the custome tries a pen with a Parker refill, he just does not want the Cross refill pens... hopefully the Elegant American with the Parker refills will sell as well.. they are just a tad bigger than the streamlines...
 
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