Wipe -On Poly for Pen Finish

[William Young]

Has anyone here tried using wipe-on poly for a pen finish. Got pros and cons?
Why I am asking is that I just finished turning six decorative lamps and I used wipe on poly on them instead of setting up my sprayer for my usual laquer finish.
The finish came out better than my expectations. Sure it took four coats and two days but it only takes seconds to wipe it on completely streak free and with no runs. I was thinking the pen blanks could all be slid on to a thin dowel and set aside between appying coats.
I will soon be back at making a bunch of pens so I was just wondering if anyone is doing this. I havn't seen this question come up before for pens.
W.Y.

 

[ryannmphs]

I've used it for several pens. I like it due to ease of application. The cons would be dry time and it does tend to show wear faster than CA (dent's, scratches, etc.)

Ryan

 

[MDWine]

William, what kind/brand did you use? I wouldn't mind trying it myself, on the "low line" pens...

Thanks!

 

[pastorbill1952]

William that is my primary method. I use Minwax brand from wallyworld for less than $6. I really like it but the drying time can be a apin w/ some woods. For the most part I use a sealer coat (snading sealer, or CA or some fancy sealer I bought at woodcraft. Lightly sand after the sealer & bvegin with coats of wipe on poly. Usually dries w/i 45 minutes for a recoat. After a final coat I let cure at least overnight but usually for 1-2 days before assembly.

 

[William Young]

pastorbill;
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I will definitely give it a try. The product I used was Minwax Wipe-On Poly Clear Gloss. It is in a 946 ml can (approx one quart) and cost me $18.99 at the local hardware store plus 14% taxes for a total of $21.65. But I am not complaining about the price. There is probably enough in a can to do a thousand pens.
I realize it is a slower method than most others but if it is not for a special rush order, I don't mind the extra time involved. It can be drying between coats while I am doing other things. I will try it when I am just making a dozen or more as back-up stock. I may even try power buffing it after a couple weeks of curing .

Here are some Decorative lamps that I used it on . I did put a coat of Zinnzer sanding sealer on first followed by three applications of the wipe on poly. I was quite pleased with the outcome.
W.Y.

 

[pastorbill1952]

William those are really nice looking lamps. What kit did you use?

 

[William Young]

Here is the kit I used. I searched the internet and asked on sites because I am so cheap. There were some sites that had the identical kit but at higher prices. Sure pays to shop around sometimes. I got a dozen of them to see how they go at craft sales. I have heard many good reports about them as a craft sale item

http://store.yahoo.com/primitive-originals/oillampinsert.html

That site is all about gourds so just ignore that part. The base can be made out most anything with my preference being wood.

Are we getting off topic in this pen turning site ? [:I]
There is lots of info on these and many other turnings in my own discussion boards site. It may not be proper etiquete (sp) to post the link here so if you want it just PM or email me.
W.Y.

 

[pastorbill1952]

William I am already a member of Woodworking Friends, just don't make it there as often as I do here.

 

[MDWine]

Thanks for the info! Those are nice looking lamps!
Darn... more things for my 'to do' list...

 

[rtparso]

According to Jeff Jeweit sp? wipe on in regular poly thinned down with MS.

 

[pastorbill1952]

William, the fancy stuff from Woodcraft is Mylands cellulose sealer. It was recommended for sealing oily woods.

 

[Bill Collier]

Hi William,
I regularly use wipe on poly. First I sand the blanks down to finished size, then apply the super thin CA. Once the CA has dried, I micromesh the blank to 12000 and then apply 3 coats of wipe on poly. It does take longer than other methods but it really does work well.