Who has the softer acrylic/resin/etc?.

[les-smith]

I'm asking something that I don't know a whole lot about, but I'll ask anyways.

I would like to know something about Acrylics, PR, Alumilite, Celluloid, Resin or whatever it might be called. I realize there are differences between these and that's where I get confused. I bought some blanks from CSUSA, the Jersey celluloid. Well, it seemed to be soft compared to other acrylics that I have turned. I'm not a big fan of any of the acrylic stuff, but I liked turning the softer stuff.

What is the softer stuff? How can you ensure that your buying the softer stuff? Where's a good place that sells a nice variety of the softer stuff? Is there any wording that I should know if I'm talking to someone about buying the softer stuff? Thanks.

 

[rherrell]

Heck man,when you don't know a whole lot about something is exactly the right time to ask.All the stuff I've gotten from Ernie at Bear Tooth Woods has been "soft", IMO.

 

[ed4copies]

Define "soft".

 

[THarvey]

I purchased a number of acrylics through Woodturningz.

The "Acrylic Acetate" blanks were the softest of the bunch. I know different suppliers have a different name for similar blanks, not sure what they are called elsewhere.

 

[ElMostro]

Les, Allumilite is softer than PR. But, it is more expensive and the only blanks available are custom made, none of the big pen suppliers sell Allimilite blanks (none that I know of).

Eugene

 

[rherrell]

I define soft as not "chippy". Of course Les might have a different definition.

 

[les-smith]

Originally posted by rherrell
<br />I define soft as not "chippy". Of course Les might have a different definition.

I would agree. I know there are reasons unrelated to the blank that cause chippiness, such as dull tools, mandrel flexion, etc. I don't think I have problems with those. It just seems some blanks feel better than others.

Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />Define "soft".

Hey Ed. With out getting into the whole "Are your tools sharp enough" discusion. It just seems that sometimes I get a blank that turns a lot better than the others. It just seems to cut and turn easier. It has the feeling of being softer. I thought that if I knew who sold this type of blank (whatever type it is) that I could look into purchasing them.

Originally posted by ElMostro
<br />Les, Allumilite is softer than PR. But, it is more expensive and the only blanks available are custom made, none of the big pen suppliers sell Allimilite blanks (none that I know of).

Eugene

Hey Eugene, that's kind of what I was looking for. I've turned some alumilite and I liked it. I just didn't know if someone sold those type of blanks.

I have mainly purchased blanks from the retailers, online and walk-in. I've never ordered custom blanks before. I'm not against it, I just haven't ever done it. I just didn't know how to talk to them about this subject if I was to contact them.

 

[redbulldog]

The best "alternate wood" blanks that I have turned are Dawn's potion #9, they are so much easier to turn and finish in my opinion. Get Ed's
cat-a-log for their blanks.

 

[ed4copies]

Originally posted by redbulldog
<br />The best "alternate wood" blanks that I have turned are Dawn's potion #9, they are so much easier to turn and finish in my opinion. Get Ed's
cat-a-log for their blanks.

Thanks Red!!!

I understand "non-Chippy" - I didn't mean to be evasive, I want to accurately answer your question.

The acrylic acetates and real celluloids are not "chippy".
Polyresin is as "chippy" as the maker's recipe.

There is a trade-off. USUALLY if the material is "softer", it is not as receptive to being polished. So, you have to learn a LOT about plastics to make a REALLY NICE pen from bowling ball material, for example. But, then, why would anyone WANT a REALLY SHINY bowling ball??? (Unless they were making a pen out of it!!)

I have not knowingly turned enough Alumilite to have an informed opinion.

And, my final plug, if you order from ME, I will tell you which ones are more difficult to turn successfully. ALL of mine polish well, but they are NOT ALL user-friendly.

If we stick to that which is easy, our turning skills will never IMPROVE!!![][] I ENJOY making pens that MANY others CAN'T!! At a craft show, you will frequently hear "My husband could make that", I encourage their husbands to TRY!!![}][}][}][}]

 

[les-smith]

Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />[quote

If we stick to that which is easy, our turning skills will never IMPROVE!!![][] I ENJOY making pens that MANY others CAN'T!! At a craft show, you will frequently hear "My husband could make that", I encourage their husbands to TRY!!![}][}][}][}]

Ed, I agree with you 100%. I do turn, or try to turn things that are challenging (at least to me), but I like the easy road sometimes as well. I haven't turned a whole lot of this stuff and the differences between them have been on my mind for awhile now.

 

[ed4copies]

Les,

There are some FABULOUS turners in the IAP who proudly proclaim, "I ONLY turn WOOD!!!" THAT'S GREAT!!!!

FOR ME, plastic sells better and presents more of a challenge. BUT, I have been turning plastic for over a decade - I SHOULD be able to do SOME things that others can't?????!!!!!!! Recently there are a lot more choices than there were and I enjoy finding out what each material offers, so please don't take anything as "attacking" you or other turners, I attack the material!!!


USUALLY, I WIN (on the fiftieth or sixtieth try!!!)[:0][:0][:0]

 

[winpooh498]

Ok I have a question about blanks that seem to be VERY HARD. We bought some blanks from a reputable dealer, and they are so HARD (that's the best way I can explain it) while drilling the material seemed to melt, then while turning (with razor sharp tools [] ) the material doesn't cut it seem to almost melt and rub off, like when you touch almost dry paint and it peels away. That is the best way we can explain it.
Hopefully I made that a clear as mud.[]

 

[ed4copies]

actually, Dawn, I think I can see more thru the MUD!!!

Melting while drilling is usually a "rubbery" blank, in my experience.
YOu overcome it by putting cool water in the hole, drill half an inch, empty water and shavings and put new cool water in the hole, etc. Repeat until you get NEAR the end, then DON'T go through the other end.

Cut off the bottom, so you never have to "pass through" it.

Now, you have a WET blank - DON'T GLUE IT right away, water is an accelerator for CA!!!!!!!!! Blow it dry with compressed air or wait until tomorrow for gluing.

If this is what you have, you will not get a great shine on it, either. MM isn't bad, Hut plastic polish is pretty good, buffing wheels are OK. NOTHING is GREAT!!

 

[maxwell_smart007]

Or slow down the drill and lathe speeds - that would help combat the melting, I'd guess

 

[louisbry]

Ed Brown,
Is your new cat-a-log available now?

 

[ed4copies]

Yes, Louis,

Send me e-mail, I will reply with it as an attachment --THANKS!!!!!!!

 

[les-smith]

Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />
.......so please don't take anything as "attacking" you or other turners, I attack the material!!!

USUALLY, I WIN (on the fiftieth or sixtieth try!!!)[:0][:0][:0]

Hey Ed, I haven't taken anything as attacking. I very much appreciate your comments and understand exactly where your coming from.

To me this material is so confusing. It's called by so many different names, it has so many different properties, it can be treated in so many different ways, and a lot of it feels different one to the next. I'm trying to understand it a little better so that I might be able to spend my money on the type that best suits my needs.