When is it time to replace micro mesh?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Tiger

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2009
Messages
245
Location
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Do you go by number of pens made, feel? I wash mine in a little detergent every now and then, it seems to last forever especially the higher grits.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

lorbay

Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
3,384
Location
BC. Canada
Its just like sand paper, use it like it was someone elses. Don't see the point in putting it into socks and trying to wash them. JMTSW.

Lin.
 

wyone

Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
1,764
Location
15314 Grasslands, Parker, CO 80134
I have used mine quite a bit since I started.. and they still work, but Woodcraft has them on sale this week, so I bought another set just because. I have not opened the package yet, but they were like $5 off so I thought it was a good idea. :)
 

Tiger

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2009
Messages
245
Location
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Took your advice and changed them, first thing i noticed was how much quicker the new pads cut, had to remind myself to be gentle. Result was a little bit better than previously but there were still some very fine scratches that i couldn't remove.
 

OOPS

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
674
Location
Spokane, WA
When I took my first pen turning class, I was told that a set of MM lasted about 100 pens. He preferred dry sanding with MM, whereas some people prefer wet sanding, especially on acrylic blanks. Wet sanding would make the MM last longer, IMHO. So I have just tried to go with this as a guide. Having read some of the posts above, it might be a good experiment to try a new pack after 50 pens or so and see if there is a difference in performance.
 

toddlajoie

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
1,728
Location
Feeding Hills MA
I use the smaller (around 2x2 rounded corners) pads. I mark one side with a sharpie (I letter them A-B-C-D-E, so when I eventually drop them, I know what order they go in without the little chart...), and use the unmarked side. I also use them diagonally, so I'm using the corners of the pad only rather than the whole thing, so figuring for random selection of the corner used, they should last quite a while. If I'm thinking that they are wearing out, I try the marked sides, and if it seems significantly different, then I start using the marked sides, and buy a new set next time I get a chance... If I start to question the marked side, I don't bother checking, I just toss them and start using the new set...
 
Last edited:

SSGMEADER

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
67
Location
New Hampshire
I use the smaller (around 2x2 rounded corners) pads. I mark one side with a sharpie (I letter them A-B-C-D-E, so when I eventually drop them, I know what order they go in without the little chart...), and use the unmarked side. I also use them diagonally, so I'm using the corners of the pad only rather than the whole thing, so figuring for random selection of the corner used, they should last quite a while. If I'm thinking that they are wearing out, I try the marked sides, and if it seems significantly different, then I start using the marked sides, and buy a new set next time I get a chance... If I start to question the marked side, I don't bother checking, I just toss them and start using the new set...

You are a genius...I am a tad bit color blind so I'm always super super super careful to keep the pads in order of grit. I have no idea why I didn't think to mark them like this.
 

StuartCovey

Member
Joined
Oct 2, 2013
Messages
568
Location
Rogers, AR
I've had my set for well over 100 pens and there still working great. I'm thinking of starting a new set set though, cause a few of them have wear spots on them.
I think it just depends on how you think the condition of the pads are.
FYI I have never washed them.
 
Last edited:

Fatdawg

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
239
Location
Bedford, PA 15522
I usually get a couple years out of a set. I wet sand with them and keep the stored in a container of water, ready to go at all times. When the foam material between the two sides start to degrade, I toss them.
 

mark james

IAP Collection, Curator
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
12,751
Location
Medina, Ohio
Took your advice and changed them, first thing i noticed was how much quicker the new pads cut, had to remind myself to be gentle. Result was a little bit better than previously but there were still some very fine scratches that i couldn't remove.

I'm not a very good pen turner so take this with a bit of caution... I believe it was Marko50 who when I mentioned the same problem... suggested I to start with a higher grit. I may have been putting in deeper scratches with lower grit paper than I was able to take out... Just a thought for you to consider.

I was turning Alumilite which is soft, and using wet sanding, but the concept is the same... Start as high in grits as applicable. I have noticed an improvement.
 

plano_harry

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
Messages
1,959
Location
Plano, TX 75093
I like Todd's ideas, except i use numbers - it is easier than the alphabet!:tongue:

Each pen, I alternate between numbered side and blank side to even the wear (but his system to validate wear is a good one) I run them until #5 delaminates - that seems to be the one that fails :) When I do the lathe off sanding, if a pad can take out it's own rotary scratches, I keep using it.

Since I started doing the Texatdurango buffing process, I don't even use the top 4 pads.
 

Tiger

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2009
Messages
245
Location
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
Took your advice and changed them, first thing i noticed was how much quicker the new pads cut, had to remind myself to be gentle. Result was a little bit better than previously but there were still some very fine scratches that i couldn't remove.

I'm not a very good pen turner so take this with a bit of caution... I believe it was Marko50 who when I mentioned the same problem... suggested I to start with a higher grit. I may have been putting in deeper scratches with lower grit paper than I was able to take out... Just a thought for you to consider.

I was turning Alumilite which is soft, and using wet sanding, but the concept is the same... Start as high in grits as applicable. I have noticed an improvement.
Thanks Mark, i start at the 400 grit MM, i'll try starting at 600 (green) although i know it will take a little longer to sand by starting at this point.
 

toddlajoie

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
1,728
Location
Feeding Hills MA
I like Todd's ideas, except i use numbers - it is easier than the alphabet!:tongue:

I settled on the alphabet so I wouldn't think that the number had anything to do with the actual grit, as when I cut my sandpaper into strips, I label any that don't retain the original grit marking with a number (4=400, 8=800, 12=1200) and I can't keep 2 different systems of numbers separate in my head...:eek:
 

Tiger

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2009
Messages
245
Location
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
A previous post reminds me, can you do anything when the sanding pad comes off the foam ie can you re-glue it? This happened to me, there was still enough grit on the pad it had just lost its adhesiveness to the foam backing.
 

toddlajoie

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
1,728
Location
Feeding Hills MA
you can use it without the foam. They sell micromesh in sheets (wolftat here in IAP used to sell full sheets, probably still does, but I haven't seen him mention it latetly...) and while they are slightly different (no colors, all grey, but marked on the back like sandpaper) they work just fine with no foam backing. That said, I do prefer the foam pads, probably because I'm used to them.

Of course as others have said, I consider delaminating from the foam an indication that it's time for a new set.

As for re-attaching it, you would need an adhesive that was VERY flexible, or it likely wouldn't work out well.
 

BSea

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Messages
4,628
Location
Little Rock, Arkansas
The 1st set I bought about 4 years ago didn't have the delaminating problem. But every set after that 1st set has had that issue. So I think I'm using my last set of MM. I'll go to abranet and high grit sandpaper from now on. I now polish with a beall buffing system, so I rarely use any pads past the tan (4th) pad anyway.
 
Top Bottom