When to stabalize

[cowchaser]

Figured this belonged here more than in casting so here goes. How do I know when something will need stabalized or not. I mean is there a rule of thumb on this.

Like amboyna burl. Does it need stabalized or not? For someone that has no experience in stabalized woods, either turning or buying how can I tell without actually holding the wood or being told one way or another.

 

[Daniel]

if it's wood stabalize it.
that is pretty much my rule. but not quite completely true. some woods cannot be stabalized. hard dense woods will not stabalize well. and oily woods will not do well either.
I have found that even water buffalo horn could do with some stabalizing. I am going to stop offering it as a material choice.
wood that is to soft, brittle or will basically tear apart from the turning process are a must for stabalization. that is a call you will have to make by feel and sight.

 

[cowchaser]

One of the main reasons I ask is I don't want to buy something I can't turn. I have no way of stabalizing and no idea how to do it anyway. So until later in the future I won't be able to do any.

 

[ElMostro]

Dustin, take a look at this post. I described several options.

Eugene

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29663

 

[great12b4ever]

Dustin, there is no hard fast rule of when to stabilize or not. Some do a lot more than others. I have some unstabilized blanks of Maple and Myrtle burl that a lot of people would stabilize immediately, but I have been able to turn them without stabilizing by using very sharp skews and light cuts, and knocking off the corners before I begin turning. On some of the really questionable woods, I will put a couple of coats of thin CA on, turn some, add more CA, turn more and continue this way. On my segmented blanks I alwasy coat with CA a few times during the turning process to keep the surfaces somewhat of the same texture. You will find it to be a judgemnt call, and sometimes you are right [], and other times not []

Rob

 

[rherrell]

I certainly do not subscribe to Daniel's "if it's wood stabilize it" theory. I like plain old wood just fine. A little CA and some patience goes a long way.

 

[fstepanski]

Dustin "When to stabilize"? I would say when you come across really soft woods like Redwood and Buckeye, spalted maple, etc... These are difficult to cut clean.

I don't see a need to stabilize good solid woods i.e. maple, oak, ash, the amboyna burl you asked about is very solid, as is cocobolo, coolibah burl, in general I would say you have no need to worry about these.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Originally posted by cowchaser
<br />One of the main reasons I ask is I don't want to buy something I can't turn. I have no way of stabalizing and no idea how to do it anyway. So until later in the future I won't be able to do any.

Dustin, you have seen (mostly) good advice so far. I don't agree with Daniel about stabilizing all, or most, woods. Most woods can be turned successfully without stabilizing. In fact, many people would prefer the more natural appearance of non-stable wood. But, do expect failures along the way. It is part of pen turning and all wood working. We don't like it but that is part of the learning process, which never ends. I have had to stabilize some burls that would simply fall apart if I tried turning nekkid. I guess, a general rule could be 'if it's soft and crumbly, stabilize'.