What's your choice of glue for Segmenting?

[Hayseedboy]

All,

I have been through the archives and am finding that this is kinda like how you like your steak. What kind of glue do you use for segmenting or gluing up wood to wood blanks?

Medium CA, Thick CA, Epoxy, Tightbond? What's your favorite?

Thanks in Advance,
lr

 

[hewunch]

Med or thick CA (mostly med)

 

[rdunn12]

Medium CA works great for me.

 

[workinforwood]

Totally depends on the segmentation. A majority of mine are a combination, wood glue and gorrilla glue. Quick add-ons, Med CA. Epoxy is solid, but sometimes doesn't squeeze out enough for a tight seam. Wood glue withstands the most heat <from your choices >, and gives the strongest bond, stronger than gorrilla glue even, but only for parrallel wood grain. CA bond is usually adequate, but doesn't allow enough working time for some projects, and the bond is easiest to break with a sharp impact. So, it's mostly up to you what you want to use, and then the level of segmentation comes into play.

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

Medium CA works the best for me.

 

[nightowl]

I have tried Epoxy once and didn't like it at all. I have tried Gorilla glue once and it did a good job it was just hard to squeeze the excess out and clamp straight. Now I am a straight CA man. I haven't had any problems with any Segmentation usin it....So Far.

 

[drayman]

med ca for me too.

 

[VisExp]

Thin CA, med CA, thick CA, Titebond original, Titebond III and Gorilla Glue :biggrin: It depends on the segmentation.

I dislike working with CA with a passion. It hurts my eyes, often sets up to quick and I normally end up gluing myself to the blank or my workbench :frown:. Wherever possible I try and avoid yet however, there are some segmentations where it is the only choice.

Gluing wood to wood I'll use Titebond original or Titebond III. Titebond III gives me a couple more minutes to line things up than the original does which is handy sometimes. One of the great things about Titebond is there is virtually no glue line. I always try and clamp the work for at least an hour although sometimes I will use a "rub joint".

Gluing metal or any other material to wood, I'll use Gorilla glue or Titebond's equivalent. They are both polyurethane glues and will foam slightly. Just wipe off with a dry cloth. Definitely need to clamp or the foaming action can force the pieces apart. Also dampen one of the pieces being glued with water.

All glues, even CA, need 24 hours to reach full strength. It will reach 80% strength in an hour, but takes 24 to fully cure. I never stress a joint or make a subsequent cut through a glued up joint for at least 24 hours.

 

[TellicoTurning]

I don't do a lot of segments, but if I'm gluing up pen blanks, I like thick CA... for my pepper mill blanks, I like a good quality wood glue.. I think current bottle is Elmer's or something similar from Lowe's or Wally World.

I glue up for the stems of my wine glasses using the thick CA or wood glue which ever is handy.

 

[stolicky]

Thin CA, med CA, thick CA, Titebond original, Titebond III and Gorilla Glue :biggrin: It depends on the segmentation.

I dislike working with CA with a passion. It hurts my eyes, often sets up to quick and I normally end up gluing myself to the blank or my workbench :frown:. Wherever possible I try and avoid yet however, there are some segmentations where it is the only choice.

Gluing wood to wood I'll use Titebond original or Titebond III. Titebond III gives me a couple more minutes to line things up than the original does which is handy sometimes. One of the great things about Titebond is there is virtually no glue line. I always try and clamp the work for at least an hour although sometimes I will use a "rub joint".

Gluing metal or any other material to wood, I'll use Gorilla glue or Titebond's equivalent. They are both polyurethane glues and will foam slightly. Just wipe off with a dry cloth. Definitely need to clamp or the foaming action can force the pieces apart. Also dampen one of the pieces being glued with water.

All glues, even CA, need 24 hours to reach full strength. It will reach 80% strength in an hour, but takes 24 to fully cure. I never stress a joint or make a subsequent cut through a glued up joint for at least 24 hours.

Ditto except for the Titebond III. Haven't tried it yet. I have not tried epoxy. Usually, its Titebond or GG if its not wood to wood. I am fairly new to segmenting though. I try to avoid CA for the reasons above, and also for its tendency to be brittle.

 

[shull]

Gorilla Glue or Tightbond III. CA tends to set up too fast for me so I avoid it in segmenting if I can.

 

[steve_mcloon]

Tightbond III only...even with endgrain to endgrain, but I assume this will be a weak bond, so I treat it with care until I get it glued to tubes.