What say Ye on the finish

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jtalbert

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May 12, 2007
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Cabot, Arkansas.
My wife has ask me to make a few pens from this wood to give as gifts at the church where she works. I have lowered myself to actually practicing my finish work. I have been applying a finish then cutting it off and trying again. This is the best I have so far.
Where would you say I need to go from here?

I would like to have that foot deep shine, but I dont think I'm going to get the hang of it in time for Christmas

2007126211219_final%20finish.jpg
 
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leehljp

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Tunica, Mississippi,
Sand the wood to at least 600 or 800 grit, apply the CA and sand all the way to 12000. I know that time is running out before Christmas, but putting a couple of layers of medium CA will build up the depth faster overall, but you will need to wait a tad longer for it to cure.

Let me clarify something here - Russ Fairfield has an excellent video out and he applies his CA with paper towel using the CA/BLO method. His method cures the CA almost instantly. You can repeat what he is doing a dozen times to keep building up the layers. For me, I found that I was using lots of paper towel and soaking more CA into the paper towel than getting on the pen, so I started applying two or three thin coats with paper towel and then using a rubber glove or non-stick flexible plastic applicator to apply medium or thick CA. I think this last way takes a bit longer for the CA to cure, but it is the trade off for me is using less paper towel and CA. I cannot get CA in more than one ounce sets here. The upside is that I do have a considerably thicker layer of CA than I get when I wipe on with paper towel.

You are RIGHT ON to practice. Most of the time, I get the impression from many people that they are much more interested in getting a pen out than developing the skill that goes with it. Time might be money, but money won't come unless the time is put in on developing the skill. Discipline! I can tell that we will see some great pens from you!
 

R2

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Sep 21, 2007
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Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Don't forget to sand along the grain with each grit before you go onto the next. I think you are getting there with the finish. Plent of practice time between now and Christmas.[:D][:p]
 
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I have been trying different finishing techniques and one of my more recent surprised me.
Although I have been using a CA finish, I tried some pens without the CA. All of the pens I turn are from non-stabilized, harvested, Wisconsin wood.
I use CA as a filler after sanding with 240
After sanding to 400 (vertical as well as at about 1500 rpm)
I use brown paper at full speed. I then use EEE followed by Shellawax.
I examine all pens using a dissecting microscope and am pleased by the virtual absence of sanding scratches.

I would include a photo, but don't know how to add one to this reply.

Larry

http://webpages.charter.net/lgottlieb2/
I realize that with use the high gloss look will fade, but after all, it is wood not plastic.
 

jtalbert

Member
Joined
May 12, 2007
Messages
37
Location
Cabot, Arkansas.
Thanks so much for the photo enhancement. I tried to get a better picture, but the photo software I have would not do it.

I truly appreciate the responses from you folks. I have some of the Micro Mesh paper ordered, but they are being slow about shipping. I have 320 thru 1200 in wet dry paper, but will certainly give the Micro paper a good try.

I have also been trying a product from dupont called finesse. It has some scratch removing compound along with wax. This may be a mistake.

I am now writing down the steps as someone suggested, and trying to narrow the process that way and crossing them off if they don’t work.

I will try the rubber glove tip and also the brown paper method. These are things I would have never thought of.

You guys deserve a medal for putting up with a newby like me, Im sure you have answered these same questions many times

Thanks again

James
 

marionquill

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Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
164
Location
Fort Belvoir, VA, USA.
Originally posted by leehljp
<br />Sand the wood to at least 600 or 800 grit, apply the CA and sand all the way to 12000. I know that time is running out before Christmas, but putting a couple of layers of medium CA will build up the depth faster overall, but you will need to wait a tad longer for it to cure.

Let me clarify something here - Russ Fairfield has an excellent video out and he applies his CA with paper towel using the CA/BLO method. His method cures the CA almost instantly. You can repeat what he is doing a dozen times to keep building up the layers. For me, I found that I was using lots of paper towel and soaking more CA into the paper towel than getting on the pen, so I started applying two or three thin coats with paper towel and then using a rubber glove or non-stick flexible plastic applicator to apply medium or thick CA. I think this last way takes a bit longer for the CA to cure, but it is the trade off for me is using less paper towel and CA. I cannot get CA in more than one ounce sets here. The upside is that I do have a considerably thicker layer of CA than I get when I wipe on with paper towel.

You are RIGHT ON to practice. Most of the time, I get the impression from many people that they are much more interested in getting a pen out than developing the skill that goes with it. Time might be money, but money won't come unless the time is put in on developing the skill. Discipline! I can tell that we will see some great pens from you!

I about ruined my lathe after trying to wear a latex glove while doing a CA finish - the CA grabbed the glove right off my hand, the lathe twisted the glove around and around as I jumped back and grabbed my hand in total shock and there was the glove totally wrapped around the chuck area and into the bearings making all kinds of noises you don't want your beautiful lathe to make. I tried to dig the glove out but ended up having to replace the seal...just a word to the wise...gloves and lathes don't seem to get along well.

Jason
 
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