What Glue?

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Spinzwood

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What glue do you use to cement the tubes to the drilled blanks?

I've seen CA and have seen turners say it doesn't hold up long term.. possibly to shock, changes in the wood over time, etc. I've used it but have no idea how long it holds up.

I've used 2 part epoxy.. but, if I'm doing multiple pens, the 5 minute (ha) won't stay useable for more than one pen at a time. I guess I could go to a 15 minute type.

Gorilla Glue? I haven't tried it yet.. but it is strong, foaming to fill voids, etc.

I plan on filling the tube with a plug of potato or play dough to keep the cement from getting in and having to deal with any overflow, etc.

Thoughts? In case you haven't guessed, I'm a newbie
 
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leehljp

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There are those who use any one you mentioned and love it and recommend it.

1. Gorilla Glue or polyurethane: It expands and to the uninitiated - it will move the tube out of the blank and harden - UNLESS you tape the ends to prevent it. Make your blanks about 1/8 inch longer and add something that prevents it from pushing the blank out.

2. Like you, I have 15 and 30 minute epoxy that I use when doing several. I use 5 minute when doing just one.

3. Some people have good results with thick CA. I have used it but prefer epoxy and sometimes polyurethane/Gorilla.

The brittleness of CA is the problem. Some people scrub/swipe their tubes with sandpaper to make it hold better. Rubber CA is more expensive but I found some and used it a few times and did not have any problems with it. The rubber CA is not brittle like regular CA is. (I have also used rubber epoxy on brittle wood that has a tendency to crack.

I also use plumbers putty (and others use wax or other putty as you mentioned) to prevent glue from getting into the tubes. ALWAYS clean the inside of the tubes before assembling.
 
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Spinzwood

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Thanks Hank.. Have you tried the foaming CA that fills gaps? I'm guessing if you hit it with a spritz of accelerator it would stay put.. ?

The other question I have with gluing tubes into the blanks has to do with oily woods. I have 10 Cocobolo blanks drilled.. that was a job.. Do I have to use Acetone to remove or dilute any surface oils in the hole the tube will fit into? What considerations would I have to use when choosing an adhesive for these types of wood? Considering at some time cedar along with the cocobolo.
 
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VotTak

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Rubber CA is more expensive but I found some and used it a few times and did not have any problems with it. The rubber CA is not brittle like regular CA is. (I have also used rubber epoxy on brittle wood that has a tendency to crack.
Can you go in details in regards of that"rubber" types of glues, please? I am particularly interested in how well it will hold the blank during turning. Assuming that blanks is very hard material for example "true" stone, bone, horn, fossilized materials etc. Also which brand did you use.
Thanks a lot
 

keithncsu

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I've used epoxy since the first few pens. I, like most, started with the 5 min stuff I got from Lowe's. Eventually decided I needed more time so I could waste less. Started using Bob Industries 30 min epoxy that cures in 8 hours. Decided that may be too long. Have since gone with the 15 min stuff that cures in 2 hours. It is the set with the orange colored bottle/packaging. I've found Amazon as the best source and actually have some that should deliver today.

On a related note, I have always been a "tube scuffer." I glued up 7 pens earlier this week and decided on a whim that I wasn't going to scuff them. I know a lot of people don't and have no issues so I'm going to give it a shot.
 

Spinzwood

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Keith.. I did the same.. I bought some BSI 15 min epoxy. I think it should arrive today as well. I did, however, go toe big orange and bought some acetone to 'de-oil the cocobolo.

On a whim, I also bought a Dap product called Rapidfuse. Says it sets in 30 minutes, 40% tougher than polyurethane and 2x better than super glue. Don't know if those numbers mean anything.. but, it's an all purpose bonding material.. Says it sets in 30 seconds and bonds in 30 minutes. Being it comes in a dropper bottle, I think that time frame should work.. and work well with multiple blanks at one time.

We shall see.
 

Edgar

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The best advice I can give is to experiment with different glues & techniques and see what you like and what works best for you.

I've tried most (but certainly not all) brands of CA and several epoxies. I have settled on 2P10 medium for gluing my tubes for both acrylic & wood blanks. Works well for me, but others prefer other brands or other glues & I have no problem with that.

I also quit scuffing tubes a long time ago. Personally, I think it's an unnecessary waste of time. Again, I have no problem with those who do.

Oily woods may need to be cleaned a bit with denatured alcohol or acetone for better glue adherence (regardless of type of glue). If it's really wet, it might also be good to let it sit for a day or two then recheck the tube fit before gluing & see if it might need redrilling.
 

Spinzwood

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Well, looks lee the DAP adhesive IS a CA glue.. finger stuck together pretty fast. Label didn't say anything about that.. guess I'll have to read more carefully. Sets up FAST.. less than the 30 secs on the label.
 

keithncsu

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Well, looks lee the DAP adhesive IS a CA glue.. finger stuck together pretty fast. Label didn't say anything about that.. guess I'll have to read more carefully. Sets up FAST.. less than the 30 secs on the label.

I think you forgot the "don't ask me how I know this" disclaimer :biggrin:
 

Woodchipper

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From rod building experience: For my first rod, I almost didn't get a grip in place with 5 minute epoxy. Never used it again. I used Two Ton Epoxy- great for a lot of things. I found about it from a guy who used it on golf club heads. It should hold a pen blank! It has about a 30 minute set up time. I always had two tubes on hand- JIC.
 
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I never was a fan of CA glue for gluing in tubes. For many years gorilla glue was my go to. You could always tell if I had just done a round of pens because my finger tips would be brownish black from getting it on me.

I had a few cases where blanks came apart on me that I would swear I covered VERY well with gorilla glue. Decided to try this epoxy thing everyone raves about and since switching I've not had a problem. Now I do keep 5 minute around for quick turnarounds and some 2 ton 15 minute stuff for when I've got 7-8 pens laid out ready to get glued up. Even that can get a little tight on time depending on the weather.
 

Woodster Will

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I've only used Epoxy and have not had any issues. Polyurethane glue has its uses, particularly glueing two pieces of wood that aren't completely flat for example but it's terribly messy stuff and excessive foaming can be a real pain when it comes to clean up. I'm not really a fan of CA glue as it sets too quickly for my liking.
 

Boz

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I use 30 min epoxy to glue tubes in blanks. I will usually drill the blanks and glue them the night before. Then the next day I can trim and square them up. Then turn them and finish. By picking the blank and kit the day before I find I can plan my next shop day ahead of time in my mind.
 

leehljp

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Rubber CA is more expensive but I found some and used it a few times and did not have any problems with it. The rubber CA is not brittle like regular CA is. (I have also used rubber epoxy on brittle wood that has a tendency to crack.
Can you go in details in regards of that"rubber" types of glues, please? I am particularly interested in how well it will hold the blank during turning. Assuming that blanks is very hard material for example "true" stone, bone, horn, fossilized materials etc. Also which brand did you use.
Thanks a lot

I did a search on Ebay for "rubber CA glue" and it came up. Wasn't as expensive as when I last bought some. Rubber Epoxy is black.

I bought quite a bit of rubber epoxy when I lived in Japan; it cured white. I found some here in the US after I returned - at either HD or Lower. I can't find it now. Here is a link to Amazon and it is now called "Flex Epoxy" and is used in boats for sealing.

https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Fl...-spons&keywords=flexible+epoxy+adhesive&psc=1

West Systems has an epoxy called "G/Flex Epoxy". After reading about it, I did not see a reference to "flexing" but it gets rave reviews on Amazon.

These will hold during turning. They are not soft rubber epoxies or soft CA
rubber after curing. There is "some" flex to them but not soft. It will hold well. The flex is more or less shock absorbing and why I use it on brittle woods and bone/antler material that are subject to cracking. Heat and or humidity changes are rough on some material.

The CA and rubber/flex epoxy hold/stick well. AS to oily woods, after wiping out with acetone on a Q-Tip, it sticks fine.

I just checked: Exotic Blanks has the Epoxy CA in stock.
 
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Jolly Red

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I have used all of the above, and finally settled on the gorilla polyurethane glue. I have had no problem with it moving the tubes out of the blank, that is because I alternate inserting the tube into the blank from each end, which evens out the glue instead of leaving most of it at one end. As far a keeping the tube clean, I do not use plugs in the end, and just "peel" any overage out of the tube with a narrow bladed knife.

I gave up on superglue when I got tubes about halfway in and the glue would set up. Probably just me, but still won't use it. The epoxy works good for a few pens, but it doing more than 5 or 6, I have to stop and mix more epoxy, especially in hot weather.

To speed up things, I use a spray bottle to spray a bit of water into the blank just before I insert the tube. Then the tube has to be inserted quickly or the wood will swell and clamp down on the tube making insertion difficult.
 

WriteON

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Insta-cure gap filling 2oz Bob Smith Ind.
Bob Smith Industries
Insta-cure gap filling 2oz Bob Smith Ind.

$7.99

2oz for $7.99...works like a champ. Nothing negative ...been using for 3 years and swear by it.
 

magpens

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5 min epoxy for one or two pens

30 min epoxy for more

No problems at all in 8 years.
 

PenPal

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I use Gorilla Glue and run a rubber band around each blank after as the Irish say just to be sure . I had one tube pop out that was enough for me to take precautions.

I always scuff, believe in it, when the tubes are prepared they use a fine oil.

A guy in Australia turned innumarable pens never even glued the brass he had a firm make a number of drills that allowed them to be pressed, had a tremendous output of exquisite aussie burl etc. He wholesaled for a long time to top places in Australia. I travelled a long way to spend time at his workshop I was so impressed.

After a long and prosperous career he passed in the last few years.

One of his outlets is not too far away from here and they reveered the man and his quality


So courses for horses make your own determination. Love many trust few but always paddle your own canoe.

Peter.
 

Woodster Will

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Many years ago I was an avid Crossbow shooter and shot in National, European and World championships. Over a ten year period I made up dozens of bolts using Epoxy adhesive to glue the points in the arrow tube and never had one come loose. I never scuffed up any of the components just wiped then down with Isopropyl to remove any oil. If Epoxy is good enough to secure a point that decelerates from 200mph to zero in a fraction of a second I'm sure it will be fine for a pen! :biggrin:
 

Woodchipper

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Glue is like chasing women- we all have our preferences. The use of 15 or 30 minute epoxy would be good when doing several pens at once. To me, it is a waste (even though glue is a cheaper part of penmaking) to mix up a batch of epoxy for one or two pens.
 

MTViper

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Clyde, Texas
I have used all the above and have settled on System Three BarrelBond that I get from Woodcraft, but it's available other places. It's listed as a "5 Minute Gel Glue" but I can usually get 6-8 tubes glued and inserted before it starts to stiffen up. I have the blanks drilled and the tubes sanded (if needed) and beside the blank so that when the gel is mixed, I start inserting tubes. I've never had a failure with it.
 

tbfoto

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Lafayette, Indiana
I tried using CA glue years ago and did not like the results so I have used epoxy ever since....UNTIL today when I decided to once again try CA glue. Again I found that the CA did not do a good job of filling in the area around the tube and hole drilled so I will go back to epoxy and never question again. Might have been my technique or the type of CA I use but I'll just stick with epoxy for now on.
 

Lucky2

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New Brunswick/ Canada
All I've ever use is CA glue for my pens, I've never had any issues using it. I buy my CA glue at the dollar store, it comes in a container with four small tubes inside. I use one small tube per pen, each small tube cost about .25 cents. In the past, I tried using Gorilla polyurethane expanding glue, that was nothing but a mess. And I'm very used to using Gorilla poly glue, I use three or four bottles of it a year to make plywood with. I also tried using epoxy, and I didn't have any issues using it. I found using the epoxy, just a bit friggy to use with the mixing of the two halves.
Len
 

VotTak

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Staten Island, NY, USA
Rubber CA is more expensive but I found some and used it a few times and did not have any problems with it. The rubber CA is not brittle like regular CA is. (I have also used rubber epoxy on brittle wood that has a tendency to crack.
Can you go in details in regards of that"rubber" types of glues, please? I am particularly interested in how well it will hold the blank during turning. Assuming that blanks is very hard material for example "true" stone, bone, horn, fossilized materials etc. Also which brand did you use.
Thanks a lot

I did a search on Ebay for "rubber CA glue" and it came up. Wasn't as expensive as when I last bought some. Rubber Epoxy is black.

I bought quite a bit of rubber epoxy when I lived in Japan; it cured white. I found some here in the US after I returned - at either HD or Lower. I can't find it now. Here is a link to Amazon and it is now called "Flex Epoxy" and is used in boats for sealing.

https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Fl...-spons&keywords=flexible+epoxy+adhesive&psc=1

West Systems has an epoxy called "G/Flex Epoxy". After reading about it, I did not see a reference to "flexing" but it gets rave reviews on Amazon.

These will hold during turning. They are not soft rubber epoxies or soft CA
rubber after curing. There is "some" flex to them but not soft. It will hold well. The flex is more or less shock absorbing and why I use it on brittle woods and bone/antler material that are subject to cracking. Heat and or humidity changes are rough on some material.

The CA and rubber/flex epoxy hold/stick well. AS to oily woods, after wiping out with acetone on a Q-Tip, it sticks fine.

I just checked: Exotic Blanks has the Epoxy CA in stock.
I really appreciate this info. Will grab Flex epoxy and try it. G/Flex is probably better for knife application than for pen turning.
Thank a lot.
 
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