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Old 09-01-2017, 05:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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I never was a fan of CA glue for gluing in tubes. For many years gorilla glue was my go to. You could always tell if I had just done a round of pens because my finger tips would be brownish black from getting it on me.

I had a few cases where blanks came apart on me that I would swear I covered VERY well with gorilla glue. Decided to try this epoxy thing everyone raves about and since switching I've not had a problem. Now I do keep 5 minute around for quick turnarounds and some 2 ton 15 minute stuff for when I've got 7-8 pens laid out ready to get glued up. Even that can get a little tight on time depending on the weather.
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Old 09-01-2017, 05:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I've only used Epoxy and have not had any issues. Polyurethane glue has its uses, particularly glueing two pieces of wood that aren't completely flat for example but it's terribly messy stuff and excessive foaming can be a real pain when it comes to clean up. I'm not really a fan of CA glue as it sets too quickly for my liking.
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I use 30 min epoxy to glue tubes in blanks. I will usually drill the blanks and glue them the night before. Then the next day I can trim and square them up. Then turn them and finish. By picking the blank and kit the day before I find I can plan my next shop day ahead of time in my mind.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Ditto to Boz. 30 minute epoxy has become my choice after a lot of experimenting.
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VotTak View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by leehljp View Post
Rubber CA is more expensive but I found some and used it a few times and did not have any problems with it. The rubber CA is not brittle like regular CA is. (I have also used rubber epoxy on brittle wood that has a tendency to crack.
Can you go in details in regards of that"rubber" types of glues, please? I am particularly interested in how well it will hold the blank during turning. Assuming that blanks is very hard material for example "true" stone, bone, horn, fossilized materials etc. Also which brand did you use.
Thanks a lot
I did a search on Ebay for "rubber CA glue" and it came up. Wasn't as expensive as when I last bought some. Rubber Epoxy is black.

I bought quite a bit of rubber epoxy when I lived in Japan; it cured white. I found some here in the US after I returned - at either HD or Lower. I can't find it now. Here is a link to Amazon and it is now called "Flex Epoxy" and is used in boats for sealing.

https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Fle...adhesive&psc=1

West Systems has an epoxy called "G/Flex Epoxy". After reading about it, I did not see a reference to "flexing" but it gets rave reviews on Amazon.

These will hold during turning. They are not soft rubber epoxies or soft CA
rubber after curing. There is "some" flex to them but not soft. It will hold well. The flex is more or less shock absorbing and why I use it on brittle woods and bone/antler material that are subject to cracking. Heat and or humidity changes are rough on some material.

The CA and rubber/flex epoxy hold/stick well. AS to oily woods, after wiping out with acetone on a Q-Tip, it sticks fine.

I just checked: Exotic Blanks has the Epoxy CA in stock.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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I have used all of the above, and finally settled on the gorilla polyurethane glue. I have had no problem with it moving the tubes out of the blank, that is because I alternate inserting the tube into the blank from each end, which evens out the glue instead of leaving most of it at one end. As far a keeping the tube clean, I do not use plugs in the end, and just "peel" any overage out of the tube with a narrow bladed knife.

I gave up on superglue when I got tubes about halfway in and the glue would set up. Probably just me, but still won't use it. The epoxy works good for a few pens, but it doing more than 5 or 6, I have to stop and mix more epoxy, especially in hot weather.

To speed up things, I use a spray bottle to spray a bit of water into the blank just before I insert the tube. Then the tube has to be inserted quickly or the wood will swell and clamp down on the tube making insertion difficult.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:19 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Insta-cure gap filling 2oz Bob Smith Ind.
Bob Smith Industries
Insta-cure gap filling 2oz Bob Smith Ind.

$7.99

2oz for $7.99...works like a champ. Nothing negative ...been using for 3 years and swear by it.
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:42 AM   #18 (permalink)
 
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5 min epoxy for one or two pens

30 min epoxy for more

No problems at all in 8 years.
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Old 09-02-2017, 03:08 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
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I use Gorilla Glue and run a rubber band around each blank after as the Irish say just to be sure . I had one tube pop out that was enough for me to take precautions.

I always scuff, believe in it, when the tubes are prepared they use a fine oil.

A guy in Australia turned innumarable pens never even glued the brass he had a firm make a number of drills that allowed them to be pressed, had a tremendous output of exquisite aussie burl etc. He wholesaled for a long time to top places in Australia. I travelled a long way to spend time at his workshop I was so impressed.

After a long and prosperous career he passed in the last few years.

One of his outlets is not too far away from here and they reveered the man and his quality


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Old 09-02-2017, 05:40 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Many years ago I was an avid Crossbow shooter and shot in National, European and World championships. Over a ten year period I made up dozens of bolts using Epoxy adhesive to glue the points in the arrow tube and never had one come loose. I never scuffed up any of the components just wiped then down with Isopropyl to remove any oil. If Epoxy is good enough to secure a point that decelerates from 200mph to zero in a fraction of a second I'm sure it will be fine for a pen!
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