suefox51
Member
I have the Delta 460 lathe and want to start drilling the blanks on the lathe instead of the drill press. Can someone give me a list of items I need to purchase to be able to do that???
Thanks,
Sue
Thanks,
Sue
What do I need?
- Thread starter suefox51
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JimB
Member
You need some type of chuck for the headstock. There are several options such as a scroll chuck, a pen blank chuck or collet chuck. The second thing you need is a Jacobs chuck (drill chuck) for the tail stock.
Bill in Buena Park
Member
Sue,
I believe that lathe is MT2, with 1x8 headstock. I use a drill chuck, and a scroll chuck with pen jaws. I use the chuck on the headstock, drill in the tailstock.
For an economical drill chuck solution, you might check out these options below (MT2 versions):https://www.pennstateind.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SEARCH&q=drill+chuck+mt+2
For an economical scroll chuck, you can go one of two ways - dedicated pen jaws chuck,
Pen Blank Drilling Chucks at Penn State Industries
or multi-purpose chuck with add-on pen jaws:
Utility Grip 4 Jaw Chrome Lathe Chuck System: includes 2 sets of jaws and FREE 8 in. Jumbo Flat Jaws at Penn State Industries with Pen Blank Drilling Jaws for C Series Lathe Chucks at Penn State Industries
I believe that lathe is MT2, with 1x8 headstock. I use a drill chuck, and a scroll chuck with pen jaws. I use the chuck on the headstock, drill in the tailstock.
For an economical drill chuck solution, you might check out these options below (MT2 versions):https://www.pennstateind.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SEARCH&q=drill+chuck+mt+2
For an economical scroll chuck, you can go one of two ways - dedicated pen jaws chuck,
Pen Blank Drilling Chucks at Penn State Industries
or multi-purpose chuck with add-on pen jaws:
Utility Grip 4 Jaw Chrome Lathe Chuck System: includes 2 sets of jaws and FREE 8 in. Jumbo Flat Jaws at Penn State Industries with Pen Blank Drilling Jaws for C Series Lathe Chucks at Penn State Industries
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
If you can afford it, choose a good scroll chuck (there are many, everyone says the one they bought is the "best"). They are versatile, you will use it often, once you have one.
Jacobs chuck (drill bit holder) can be had at Harbor Freight, too. Cheap, works fine. Be aware that we have a lot of bits right around half an inch. 15mm is nearly six tenths of an inch and will take bits that won't fit in half inch chuck. AGain, not a huge deal, but the metric chucks tend to allow larger bits.
1/2" equals about 12.7 mm
Jacobs chuck (drill bit holder) can be had at Harbor Freight, too. Cheap, works fine. Be aware that we have a lot of bits right around half an inch. 15mm is nearly six tenths of an inch and will take bits that won't fit in half inch chuck. AGain, not a huge deal, but the metric chucks tend to allow larger bits.
1/2" equals about 12.7 mm
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Bill in Buena Park
Member
I personally use the HF drill chuck mentioned by Ed, works fine for me. Here's the link: 1/2" MT2 Mini-Lathe Drill Chuck
If you do go with a 1/2inch chuck, make sure that for any larger (over 1/2inch) drill bits you get have a 1/2inch (or smaller) shank, like those at Woodcraft (e.g., Ed's example of 15mm: Buy Colt 15 mm Pen Maker Bit at Woodcraft.com
If you do go with a 1/2inch chuck, make sure that for any larger (over 1/2inch) drill bits you get have a 1/2inch (or smaller) shank, like those at Woodcraft (e.g., Ed's example of 15mm: Buy Colt 15 mm Pen Maker Bit at Woodcraft.com
Pretty well covered, many of the large pen kits (i.e. Emperor) do require larger than 1/2" bits so if you don't get a bigger chuck you'll need to get reduced shank bits...They are not a lot costlier than standards.
jttheclockman
Member
By far I would highly recommend the pen drilling chuck from PSI.
If it were me I would spend the extra money to get the larger one if you plan on doing bottle stoppers and things like that but this one is perfect.
Dedicated Pen Blank Drilling Chuck at Penn State Industries
Also I would get the 1/2" drill chuck as mentioned. Buy once.
If it were me I would spend the extra money to get the larger one if you plan on doing bottle stoppers and things like that but this one is perfect.
Dedicated Pen Blank Drilling Chuck at Penn State Industries
Also I would get the 1/2" drill chuck as mentioned. Buy once.
silent soundly
Member
This is exactly what I did. It really hurt to press the process payment button, but it is worth it. I have never had a single problem drilling blanks.
csr67
Member
+1 to the PSI pen chuck. I bought it and its' been flawless. If you use Amazon Prime, you can also get the PSI chuck there:
http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworki...UTF8&qid=1433359030&sr=8-1&keywords=pen+chuck
suefox51
Member
Thanks for the great info and links - bought the one from PSI and got 10% off since it was my "anniversary" of first order with them!
Sue
Sue
Justin H
Member
One more...
Just as an FYI.
If you're blanks aren't square, you're not going to get a straight hole, ever. And it won't matter how much you spend on your chucks.
It doesn't matter much on most blanks but if you start doing segmented stuff you'll need the equipment to ensure your blanks are square before you drill them.
Just as an FYI.
If you're blanks aren't square, you're not going to get a straight hole, ever. And it won't matter how much you spend on your chucks.
It doesn't matter much on most blanks but if you start doing segmented stuff you'll need the equipment to ensure your blanks are square before you drill them.
jttheclockman
Member
Just as an FYI.
If you're blanks aren't square, you're not going to get a straight hole, ever. And it won't matter how much you spend on your chucks.
It doesn't matter much on most blanks but if you start doing segmented stuff you'll need the equipment to ensure your blanks are square before you drill them.
If I may, I would like to disagree with this to a degree. I do agree when doing segmenting work uniformaty is a must. Can be done with a round blank as well as a square one.
As far as the first point. with the PSI chuck the beauty is the blank can be any shape and it will drill to the center of the blank chucked up.
monophoto
Member
Sue
OK - you have a great jacobs chuck. Now what?
Others have mentioned holding the blank in a scroll chuck on the headstock, and with the wood spinning, advance the tail stock quill to drill the hole. That's the ideal approach. You can purchase special blank drilling jaws for your scroll chuck, but they aren't really necessary - just get the blank reasonably centered with whatever jaws you have, and you will be fine.
But there is another option - yeah, it's unconventional and not ideal, but it works. Put the jacobs chuck in the headstock, center the bit on the blank, and then use the tail stock to advance the blank onto the spinning drill bit while holding the blank with your hand so that it can't rotate. As long as you start the bit in the center of one end of the blank, and the other end of the blank is centered on the tailstock, you will drill a straight hole.
In either approach, set your lathe speed to somewhere in the 400-600 r/min range. If the wood has pronounced grain, the bit may try to follow the boundaries between hard winter growth wood, and softer summer growth wood. To keep that from happening, advance the bit into the wood very slowly - let the rotation of the bit cut the hole, don't try to force the bit into solid wood. Back the bit out of the hole frequently to clear the swarf - if the flutes in the drill bit get filled with swarf, the friction will cause heat that could crack the wood.
OK - you have a great jacobs chuck. Now what?
Others have mentioned holding the blank in a scroll chuck on the headstock, and with the wood spinning, advance the tail stock quill to drill the hole. That's the ideal approach. You can purchase special blank drilling jaws for your scroll chuck, but they aren't really necessary - just get the blank reasonably centered with whatever jaws you have, and you will be fine.
But there is another option - yeah, it's unconventional and not ideal, but it works. Put the jacobs chuck in the headstock, center the bit on the blank, and then use the tail stock to advance the blank onto the spinning drill bit while holding the blank with your hand so that it can't rotate. As long as you start the bit in the center of one end of the blank, and the other end of the blank is centered on the tailstock, you will drill a straight hole.
In either approach, set your lathe speed to somewhere in the 400-600 r/min range. If the wood has pronounced grain, the bit may try to follow the boundaries between hard winter growth wood, and softer summer growth wood. To keep that from happening, advance the bit into the wood very slowly - let the rotation of the bit cut the hole, don't try to force the bit into solid wood. Back the bit out of the hole frequently to clear the swarf - if the flutes in the drill bit get filled with swarf, the friction will cause heat that could crack the wood.
nativewooder
Member
I have a slightly used Colt Five Star Hss-M2 Pen Bit Set if you are interested in the best drill bit set made. Includes 7mm, 10mm 27/64", 3/8", and "O" bits. The only bit I used very much is the 27/64, the rest just watched!:biggrin: Let me know if you are interested.
WriteON
Member
Good move. You did it right the first time. Those chucks along with Jacobs chuck will serve you well for a long time. And the drilling process will be pleasurable.
engine lathe micro with live cutter
I have 2 of these and one with the small spindle bore.
Large bore headstock
PS the big spindle bore comes with a built in 24 position indexer.
I have 2 of these and one with the small spindle bore.
Large bore headstock
PS the big spindle bore comes with a built in 24 position indexer.
