wet wood from woodcraft

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rdunn12

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Today I was in Woodcraft and ran across a 3x3x18 inch piece of claro walnut and a 1x1x18 inch piece of black and white stripped ebony.I got them and brought them home sliced em open only to find they are extremely wet.I dont have a moisture meter but dont need it when I can see the moisture after cutting.The wood was wax sealed.Shouldnt they tell people the wood may be wet!This is 35.00 worth of what I consider to be unuseable wood.Granted it will be useable once it has dried but how much will I lose to cracking now that I have cut it?So the question is do I go ahead and cut it into pen blanks and hope for the best or what?I guess I could microwave it.
 
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ed4copies

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Most of WoodCraft's wood is wax sealed. While I am NOT a wood expert, I don't think you do any damage by cutting it - just find the right way to dry it properly (someone here will tell you). May involve microwaving or just resealing with wax and waiting.

Wait for the experts - they will emerge!!!
 

Fred

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You need to immediately cut it slightly over sized and use Steve Russells' method of boiling green woods. Go here to learn the simple procedure...

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html

I HIGHLY recommend you do this outside as there is a lot of steam generated and it often is not something one would want to do inside. I use this method all the time on my larger bowl blanks and so far - knocking on my wooden head - I have had fantastic results and not lost anything to speak of.

BE SURE to follow his direction exactly. And by a boil he means a good strong rolling boil for the entire time of the process. I have found that drying in a closed cardboard box is very good.

I use a turkey fryer from Northern Handiman (try to get it on sale). Harbor Freight does NOT sell this item as they are afraid of the liability, loosely translated customer stupidity looking for somebody else to blame!

Good luck! :D
 

Tonto

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Wet wood might mean green (unseasoned) wood which is supposed to turn easier for bowls. I would assume that any wood with wax sealed ends is green unless otherwise noted. I suspect most here understand the differences between seasoned/air dried and kiln dried as well.
 

marionquill

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Fort Belvoir, VA, USA.
You may try finding your local wood turners association, for example, in D.C. there is the Capital Area Wood turners: http://www.capwoodturners.org/index.html -- they may have a kiln you could use. Also, perhaps your local wholesale hardwoods store may have a kiln they would let you use...for example, again in the DC/Northern VA area Northland Forest: http://www.northlandforest.com/retail_hardwood_products_list.shtml --I'm sure there is something in your area. If it were me, I'd cut the wood into blanks and put them through the microwave. Here is one method to dry wood using a microwave: http://mgorrow.tripod.com/microwave.html
 

Brewmeister35

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Actually, your woodcraft might refund you if you ask them. My woodcraft (and I'd bet all of them) got a ton of new woods in not long ago. Burls, blocks, and blanks. Month and a 1/2 ago maybe. My woodcraft told me they were surprised to learn it was wet. I would think they should have told you. It's not like you're buying from a sawmill or bulk supplier. The products from woodcraft should be ready to use. I'd talk to the store if I were you and see about a refund.
 

fernhills

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Yes yes yes,,thats why they get that price,you could go to saw mill and get it for half of that price.Pricing of wood is gauged on steps taken and a big cost is kiln or air drying.They should have told you,and if they didn`t know they should have known.That why they call it project wood,not future project wood.. Carl
 

Texatdurango

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Originally posted by fernhills

Yes yes yes,,thats why they get that price,you could go to saw mill and get it for half of that price.Pricing of wood is gauged on steps taken and a big cost is kiln or air drying.They should have told you,and if they didn`t know they should have known.That why they call it project wood,not future project wood.. Carl
Sorry Carl but I tend to disagree, perhaps it's YOU that should have known! I haven't been turning that long myself but when I pick up a piece of turning stock sealed with wax on the ends, I'm going to assume it's still green, a condition that many turners prefer when turning items. And if in doubt, I am never too bashfull to ask because that is how we learn things!

I don't think it's fair to assume that Woodcraft should expect that their 3" X 3" X 18" turning blanks will be "sliced open" to make pen blanks that same day! That's why they usually carry a nice assortment of "Pen blanks" as well, which are bone dry, ready to make a pen an hour after purchase.

If I were you, I would chalk this up to my inexperience in selecting wood and call it a valuable learning experience rather than coming here blaming Woodcraft and their employees for MY mistake.

Perhaps during your next visit you could ask a question like... "is this blank suitable for slicing into a dozen pen blanks and turning this afternoon?" You might be suprised that they DO know what they are doing afterall!
 

fernhills

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Originally posted by Texatdurango

Originally posted by fernhills

Yes yes yes,,thats why they get that price,you could go to saw mill and get it for half of that price.Pricing of wood is gauged on steps taken and a big cost is kiln or air drying.They should have told you,and if they didn`t know they should have known.That why they call it project wood,not future project wood.. Carl
Sorry Carl but I tend to disagree, perhaps it's YOU that should have known! I haven't been turning that long myself but when I pick up a piece of turning stock sealed with wax on the ends, I'm going to assume it's still green, a condition that many turners prefer when turning items. And if in doubt, I am never too bashfull to ask because that is how we learn things!

I don't think it's fair to assume that Woodcraft should expect that their 3" X 3" X 18" turning blanks will be "sliced open" to make pen blanks that same day! That's why they usually carry a nice assortment of "Pen blanks" as well, which are bone dry, ready to make a pen an hour after purchase.

If I were you, I would chalk this up to my inexperience in selecting wood and call it a valuable learning experience rather than coming here blaming Woodcraft and their employees for MY mistake.

Perhaps during your next visit you could ask a question like... "is this blank suitable for slicing into a dozen pen blanks and turning this afternoon?" You might be suprised that they DO know what they are doing afterall!

George,it wasn`t me that bought the peice of wood,I think all retailers should know what they are selling,and it should be marked as such.If i needed wood to be green to turn i would have asked for that,i don`t think i would have ever gone to a store like woodcraft if i wanted green wood anyway,i would have harvested it myself.the only inexpeicence i have is shopping at woodcraft.. Carl
 

Rudy Vey

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The Woodcraft I used to go to (and miss terribly) in Canton, MI sold from time to time some exotics - surely wax-sealed ends, but I was always told that this wood is green and needs to be dried if used for pen blanks. The manager was a very experienced and good turner, and he knew that I have a small pen business - he would never sell me this fresh wood as ready to turn. He often called me when he got some dry Amboyna burl blocks or Thuya burl slabs - and put it away for me until I picked it up. All employees there were very experienced wood workers, and most know a lot about turning.
 

ed4copies

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The unfortunate part about WoodCraft is the inconsistency.

They are all privately owned now, some of the owner-managers are Great!!! (READ MILWAUKEE - Chris) Some are really poor (I will not say where).

So, you gotta go in and learn who knows what.[:0][:0]
 

ed4copies

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Originally posted by Texatdurango

Originally posted by fernhills

... George,it wasn`t me that bought the peice of wood,
Oops, I hit the reply button on the wrong post, it's this stupid laptop keyboard!:D

My reply was directed towards rdunn12.

I believe this is more "Operator Error"

Slow day in the copier business, so I can post unrelated comments. Aren't you thrilled???
 

rdunn12

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Well I should have known it was green.I am not blaming woodcraft for it being green and I SHOULD HAVE ASKED.I have bought many a bowl blank in my time turning and only 1 was green.It also came from woodcraft.Both of the blanks were wax sealed and some of the others were not.So I guess the ones that arent wax sealed are dry and ready to use.Oh well no biggie I will try some of the suggestions and wait.It isnt like it is going to spoil or something.Ronald
 

Woodlvr

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The WC franchise owner for my local WC is half owner in a sawmill and is supplying some of his own woods. I would bet that NOT one employee (well maybe the manager) would know whether the wood is wet or not because it is waxed, and some of the employees do not know a whole lot about woods. I always took it for granted that the wood that we sold was suitable for use right from our shelves, but that is me.

Mike
 

rdunn12

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Well I know a couple of the guys at my local woodcraft and they are quite knowledgeable.I too assumed(we all know what that means)that at least 90 percent of the wood on the shelves was dry and ready to use.Maybe I am so unlucky that I picked the only two green pieces on the shelf.It is possible.
 

Jarheaded

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Did you ask if the wax sealed wood was green or dry? The salesperson normally assumes that the customer picking out wax sealed woods would know that it is sealed for a reason. I am friends with a Woodcraft store owner and have helped out when he is short on salesmen. I wouldn't tell you the wood is green . The board wood is not sealed and is dry. If you bring it back and explain what happened, they may take it back knowing that they could sell it to someone like me at a discount rate. If you are going to bring it back, let me know so I can get it cheaper.:D:D:D
Thanks and have a great new year,
Johnnie
 

Rod

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I also bought a piece of osage orange wood from WoodCraft. It was completely sealed in wax. Most of their wood there was so I didnt ask why.When I turned it it was very wet,just wet wood chips no dust! I made a bottle stopper out of it.Two days later it cracked.I have a question, Why is wood sealed in wax if it is wet? Wouldnt the wax keep it from drying? Or does the wax slow the drying process down so it will not crack? If wood is waxed how long does it take to dry? Well I guess thats four questions! I'm still learning and dont want to make an expensive pen and have it crack because of green wood.Thanks for any suggestions. Rod......
 

rdunn12

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Yes wax slows the drying process to help prevent cracking.As I said,I assumed that even though it was waxed it was dry but that is not the case as I found out.And you did too.Since my first post on this subject the wood I cut is already starting to crack badly.Will have to hurry up and try some of the suggestions mentioned here.Ronald.
 

DaveM

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Houghton Lake, Michigan
What is the best method for air drying this type of wood? I don't have a kiln, or a surplus microwave, but I can take the time, and put the wood aside for the future. Right now, I knock off the corners on the lathe, but leave the ends covered with wax, and set them aside for several months. Sometimes, I drill out the centers (If they are pen blanks) with a small drill to aid the drying, and then when they are dry, I drill and turn them. This is for 1" and smaller blanks. Larger blanks would probably take a few years to dry out.

Any better methods out there? I assume that with the wax coating they won't really ever dry completely. I have a five year supply of waxed 2" blanks for other projects like stoppers and duck calls, but I was going to wait three or four years to turn them.

Thanks,
Dave
 

Jarheaded

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I dry my wood in a toaster oven that I bought for $30. If the wood is just wet from rain or something like that then I place it on top of my portable oil filled radiator heater. When the wood is just too wet for either of those, . I dry it in the fireplace and that seem to work well and makes me less stressed.
Have a good new year,
Johnnie
 

rdunn12

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I have tried the old radiant heater thing on some spalted white oak blanks I found out in the woods near my house.It worked great with minimal cracking and I was able to get some nice pens from those limbs.The pens I made from the limbs I found flew out of the pen box.I have enough of this left to maybe get 2 pens,need to take another walk in the woods.Ronald.
 

Tonto

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I cut some small buckthorn in my yard this summer, milled into 3/4 X 3/4 by 12-20 inch long pieces, stacked them in my garage with pine 1/4 X 1/4 inch stickers like a larger lumber stack would be done and put them on a shelf in my garage with a fan blowing nearby for a couple of days. By the time I got to turn into pens, wood was fine, some twisted slightly but not enough to ruin them for pen blanks. Caveat, tried the same with honeysuckle, they twisted and split as the wood was lighter density and much "wetter" so this may or may not work depending on species. I did get some honeysuckle for blanks though. I suspect Oak would work fine with this as would most denser hardwoods. I think a month or so "drying" such small blanks is fine, you can feel the difference in weight between a green and air-dry blank and it doesn't take long to get there (at least here in MN)
 

Rod

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Thanks for all of the responses, I will sure be more careful on how I select my wood and how soon I use it.I will also ask about its moisture content if it's waxed!! Rod....
 

louisbry

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I have often cut green logs into pen blanks and I usually paint the end grain with wax or even latex paint and stack them so that air can circulate. If they are really wet I put them into a sealed paper bag for a week or two, changing the bag if it gets too wet. Basically the same methods used for once turned green bowls works for pen blanks. I very seldom have any problems with pen blanks, especially if straight grained. If you have a burl or root that is really wet you may have to seal the entire blank with wax and wait for it to dry slowly to prevent severe warping.
 
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