pipemaker
Member
I have noticed that very few pens are turned from Wenge. Aside from it's relatively coarse grain and texture, does this wood have any other disadvantages?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
Wenge
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Gary
Member
I've used it but have not been happy with it. It splinters easily when working it, has very open grain, and for me at least, just isn't that attractive.
There are 10 pens plus a bottle stopper that are either entirely wenge or use wenge for accent in our photo galleries. There are probably more, but that's all that use "wenge" in the title or filename. That's a lot less than maple or walnut, but a lot more than many woods!
timdaleiden
Member
I happen to think that Wenge is a very handsome wood, once the open grain is properly filled. A Sanding Sealer or CA slurry will do it.
It is a bit "chip out" prone to work with, but not that bad.
My biggest problem is that I don't know how to pronounce Wenge. Is it Wengy? or Wenj? or Wenjy? I dunno.
It is a nice looking wood, IMO.
It is a bit "chip out" prone to work with, but not that bad.
My biggest problem is that I don't know how to pronounce Wenge. Is it Wengy? or Wenj? or Wenjy? I dunno.
It is a nice looking wood, IMO.
KKingery
Member
I've used it also, and not been too happy. Of course, I'm not big on filling. Properly done, it is a beautiful wood, but just not one I'm fond of.
Gary
Member
http://www.woodworking.org/WC/Woods/265.html
timdaleiden
Member
Wenge
(pronounced 'When-gay')
Well; there you go. Maybe that is why many people avoid it. LOL
KKingery
Member
LOL.....
jwoodwright
Member
Too funny...[
]
I can hear it now, "What wood is that pen made with?"
Oh, that's when-gay, "I'll take the Rosewood..."[]
]I can hear it now, "What wood is that pen made with?"
Oh, that's when-gay, "I'll take the Rosewood..."[
]Mac In Oak Ridge
Member
I found a nice board of Wenge at the Woodcraft store. Very fine grain, about 30 lines per inch. It just so happened that it was cut with the grain on a 15° angle. Perfect for showing off the wood grain. I have made three pens out of the blanks from that board and the third one I just finished yesterday. It is the first one that I have been pleased with. The other two had voids in the light color grain, tiny chip outs. The first one was the worse cause I didn't know it would do it. The second I tried stabilizing with CA and it helped, a lot. I still didn't get them all.
The third one I stabilized with vacuum and Bondo Wood Hardener and CA when I got down close to dimension and it came out without any chip out of the light stripes. However, one section did split off when I put the pen mill in one end of the square blank. I CA'd it back in place. Then when turning another piece flew off. The wonder of it is the dust collection system didn't suck it off to oblivion. I was able to retreive it and CA it back on. Pen came out very well.
The third one I stabilized with vacuum and Bondo Wood Hardener and CA when I got down close to dimension and it came out without any chip out of the light stripes. However, one section did split off when I put the pen mill in one end of the square blank. I CA'd it back in place. Then when turning another piece flew off. The wonder of it is the dust collection system didn't suck it off to oblivion. I was able to retreive it and CA it back on. Pen came out very well.
G
Guest
Guest
In the minority again.
I happen to love the rich dark color of wenge.
In an earlier thread I mentioned that I cut a lot of my wood blanks either on a bias or cross grain.
Mac, you brought out the fact the board you found was cut on an angle.
That one of the benefits of not buying precut blanks.
Different grain orientation is one of the biggest benefits of buying wider stock and cutting your own blanks.
Wet sanding with BLO and then adding a sealer helps fill the grain better for me than the ca METHOD.
I hate going through all the grits of MM only to find a fleck of white CA buried in the finish.
I'm finding a little bit of patience and working on more than one pen at a time improves the final product.
Giving them a period of time to rest.
I happen to love the rich dark color of wenge.
In an earlier thread I mentioned that I cut a lot of my wood blanks either on a bias or cross grain.
Mac, you brought out the fact the board you found was cut on an angle.
That one of the benefits of not buying precut blanks.
Different grain orientation is one of the biggest benefits of buying wider stock and cutting your own blanks.
Wet sanding with BLO and then adding a sealer helps fill the grain better for me than the ca METHOD.
I hate going through all the grits of MM only to find a fleck of white CA buried in the finish.
I'm finding a little bit of patience and working on more than one pen at a time improves the final product.
Giving them a period of time to rest.
Gregory Huey
Member
Just not one of my favorite woods. I have made afew pens from it and it does take a little extra effort. SHARP TOOLS is a must. The ca/blo finish seems to fill in the grain quite well.
G
Guest
Guest
One more thing about filling the grain.
Snading with the grain is important.
Sanding with the lathe on seem to "clean" out the grain.
Snading with the grain is important.
Sanding with the lathe on seem to "clean" out the grain.
jkirkb94
Member
One of the major reasons I haven't done more IS the open grain. I just need to use fillers more. Once tuned and finished, it is a really nice looking dark wood that can make pens rich looking! Kirk[8D]
jwoodwright
Member
Paul sent me some, so I'll use these tips to turn them... Thanks... [8D]
Daniel
Member
Eagle,
I'm with your. I think Wenge makes a very handsome pen. one of my favorites in fact. the grain does make it harder to get a clear finish. but using CA I can get it to come out just fine. since you can actually sill voids with CA slurry. a deep grain is pretty minor.
I'm with your. I think Wenge makes a very handsome pen. one of my favorites in fact. the grain does make it harder to get a clear finish. but using CA I can get it to come out just fine. since you can actually sill voids with CA slurry. a deep grain is pretty minor.
woodscavenger
Member
I like the feel of it. I have one in my album with a bocote cb. I just used oil and friction polish. Personally I like the open pores. I am obviously in the minority. I think sometimes things get filled too well and it looks like a manmade material. Just MHO.
pipemaker
Member
Thanks to all who responded.
I will put your knowledge and experience to good use.
Mike
I will put your knowledge and experience to good use.
Mike
Fred in NC
Member
Shane, I agree with you. Especially for the common local woods, my customers like to be able to feel the wood.
woodscavenger
Member
So what do you use for a simple more natural finish? Is there something that is quick and simple that doesn't take multiple coats and lots of time?
G
Guest
Guest
MYlands sealer,polish and Carnuba wax can be used to give any degree of "finish" shine you want.
Yep it takes multiple coats,
I use 3 sealer, 3 polish and 2 wax,5 minutes tops,one right after another.
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