WB Lacquer Application

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thostorey

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
79
Location
Qualicum Beach, British Columbia, Canada.
For Bill Young.

Bill, you've convinced me I should try the wb lacquer on my pens so I
ordered a quart from Jeff today. I know you posted your method of
applying it with a foam brush but I didn't copy it at the time. Would you please either repost or email me how you do it. I'd like to get it right the first time!

Thanks, Tom
 

William Young

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
Messages
447
Location
Wynndel, British Columbia, Canada.
Hi Tom
I dont think you have a HVLP spraying system so here is how I do it with the
foam brush. Actually, I am using the brush more than spraying now because it
is less messy.
I tried paper towel and clean T shirt material and fine haired brush before
I finally settled on the little one inch foam brushes. The foam brush leaves
no streaks or fibre particle like the other ones did.
First , make sure that WB laquer is totally stirred from the bottom. I then
put some in a small jar enough for about 20 pens so I dont have to keep
opening the quart can and stirring that.
While the blanks are still on the lathe and sanded down to 12000 MM , and
wiped very clean, I just dip the foam brush into the laquer about 1/2 " and
then wipe any excess on the inside lip of the jar. Then with my left hand on
the hand wheel and my right holding the brush, I brush it on across the pen
in one straight motion and turn the handle slightly and repeat and repeat .
Takes about 6 swipes across to allow for overlap and come to full circle. I
usually turn the brush 180 degrees after the first threee strokes to use
the product on the other side of the brush. You should have a nice "wet"
coat on the entire blank. If there are some areas that look a little cloudy,
dont worry about it. It will soon become clear while setting up. If you
didn't apply enough the first time, you will probably have trouble going
back over it because it dries very fast. Now with a nice shiny wet coat on
it, it is important to sit there for at least one full minute and slowly
rotate the handwheel back and forth until the finish is set. That will
prevent any sags or runs from forming. Once set, I turn the lathe on and let
it spin for faster drying and go about doing other things in my shop for 1/2
hour at which time the finish is sandable dry. I shut the lathe off and if
there are any dust nibs I either gently steel wool them off or use very fine
grit paper. Then clean it off and apply a second coat in the same manner as
the first. Usually there is no sanding required between coats if your brush
is extremely clean before using it. Remember,.. you are using a water base
product so a slightly water dampend lint free cloth makes an excellent
tack rag.
Two coats are usually plenty . Two coats of that have a film depth of
probably more than ten coats of friction fiishes and is way more durable. If
you want to use your lathe right away, slide the pieces off the mandrel and
set them on a piece of kleenex or paper towel and let them cure overnight
before assembly. I have taken them right off the lathe and assembled them a
few times but it is easy to mark the finish that soon so it is best to let
it cure.
Hope this helps. You may find ways that work better but this works for me.
Don't forget, there is a little learning curve with all unfamiliar
processes. If you get perfection the first time, then you did better than I
did.
W.Y.
 
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