Waxy Blanks

[Squeaker]

Just wondering if anyone removes the wax from your blanks before working them. I need to remove wax and would like to know the best way (solvent prefered) to do that?

Thanks, Squeaker.....

 

[wdcav1952]

I don't bother as my skew does a terrific job of removing the wax.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

If the mosture content is high then you should remove the wax and let the blank dry. A week in a bucket of saw dust should work just fine.

Mike & Linda

 

[wdcav1952]

Originally posted by MLKWoodWorking

If the mosture content is high then you should remove the wax and let the blank dry. A week in a bucket of saw dust should work just fine.

Mike & Linda

OK, so you have a rational idea Still, Squeaker wants a method to remove the wax. Didn't someone mention using a blow torch to vaporize the wax?

 

[Nolan]

This is how I do it on the natural edges of burls. Like bowls and such. Just dont get the wood too hot or it will damage it. I have heard you can boil the wax off also in a pot of water but I havent tried it. BTW the little wire brush is a flux brush that is soft, not the firm wire brush.

 

[Dan_F]

I've just scraped it off with a razor blade.

Dan

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Originally posted by wdcav1952

OK, so you have a rational idea Still, Squeaker wants a method to remove the wax. Didn't someone mention using a blow torch to vaporize the wax?

See Cav, Ask and ye shall receive. I don't do the blow torch thing as I am a bit of a pyro and might get carried away.[}] Since I am not a cutter I do like Dan and scrape!

Mike

 

[Blind_Squirrel]

I was thinking about trying to put a blank in the toaster oven I use for PCing to melt the wax. Any idea how warm it would have to get to melt the wax?

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Just curious and I don't know but rather thinking of the physics of it.

Whether heating from a torch, boil or oven, wouldn't those tend to allow more wax deeper into the wood grain? I mean you are heating the wood which causes it to swell and as you melt the wax it has to go someplace.

Any thoughts on this?

Mike

 

[cdcarter]

Now if only I knew where I could get some sawdust cheap.

A week in a bucket of saw dust should work just fine.

Mike & Linda

 

[edstreet]

I bought wood from one person and they had a thick coat of candle wax over the entire section. I tried everything to get it off and it was quite deep in the wood. I found out they were tossing them into a vat of melted paraffin. Needless to say getting it off was a pain, the best way I found was a belt sander but the belts clog easy.

Now if it is anchorseal then it's way easy to get off and it does not penetrate into the wood.

Ed

 

[Rifleman1776]

I use the propane torch method. Quick and easy. The wax just smokes off and vaporizes quickly. Sometimes the corners of the wood scorch a little but that isn't a problem. As for those who scrape off. Doesn't work. The wax adheres to the surface. All you are removing is the thick excess.

 

[Nolan]

Originally posted by MLKWoodWorking

Just curious and I don't know but rather thinking of the physics of it.

Whether heating from a torch, boil or oven, wouldn't those tend to allow more wax deeper into the wood grain? I mean you are heating the wood which causes it to swell and as you melt the wax it has to go someplace.

Any thoughts on this?

Mike

Mike they are waxed in a big pot like you would use to deep fry a turkey so the wax does penitrate the wood when the wax is applied.

 

[Nolan]

Originally posted by Blind_Squirrel

I was thinking about trying to put a blank in the toaster oven I use for PCing to melt the wax. Any idea how warm it would have to get to melt the wax?

The parifin wax used depending on which supplier you use melts from about 125 to 140. BTW the higher melting content the better for sealing the wood and making it look good. Basically the lower meltin temp wax has a tendency to whiten when it drys so it is cloudy and you cant really see the grain well.

 

[IPD_Mrs]

Nolan I was talking about burning, boiling and cooking the wax off not applying it. You know me I just hate to screw up a good piece of wood.

Mike

 

[Nolan]

Originally posted by MLKWoodWorking

Nolan I was talking about burning, boiling and cooking the wax off not applying it. You know me I just hate to screw up a good piece of wood.

Mike

Right, I was just saying (via shorthand) that in order to put the wax on they heat the wax in a big pot and then dunk the burl into the pot as to cover the said burl. Basically any and all open grain, cracks, voids and such get filled with wax.That is why I first put that you need to be careful and not get the wood too hot so you dont damage the wood. I think it would be interesting to see if your thought is actually a factor. Maybe if I get time I will take a whole burl and cut it in half or quarters and do some un-scientific testing. I know there are solvents out their to remove the wax also but never really felt the need to pursue it. The only time it is a factor for me is when I am doing a natural edge bowl. For pen blanks and stuff I dont personally wax them. As far as Anchorseal it is also waxed based as it says on their website. (ANCHORSEAL is a stable wax and water emulsion.)

 

[Jarheaded]

Carl,
I just happen to be running a big sale on sawdust. just let me know what type you would want and I will send out a truckload(some disassembly required). [}]
Johnnie

Why do you want to get rid of the wax? It comes off when you turn it.

 

[Aderhammer]

Try a space heater. I use one to speed up the curing of my epoxy on pen blanks and i found that waxed blanks like ow will lose there wax after sitting in the heater*

 

[Fred]

Try FREEZING the blanks and then chipping off the wax. This works relatively well if the wax is applied with some degree of thickness. Be careful of freezing the wood to the point where it splits due to any internal moisture in the blank.

Actually dropping the weighted down blanks into rapidly boiling water is also a good quick way to remove the wax. Be sure to have a means of grabbing the blanks is at hand. I usually just tie a cord to the blank, add a weight to hold the blank down, then rapidly dip and pull the blank out in seconds. Repeat if necessary several times to get all the wax off.

Getting the blank out of the boiling water and NOT re-applying some of the wax is tricky too. I have boiled the water then dropped blanks in and waited a few moments THEN dropped in a rag to catch some of the wax and moved the rag to the side with a stick and then removed the wood. Skimming the wax to the side is highly recommended.

What is NOT recommended is for you to use one of SWMBO cooking pots. That my friend will definitely get you a burl knot right up-side the ole head.

Heating the wood outright by a torch, oven, or whatever means used does drive the wax deeper into the fibers of the wood. That is quite often not a good idea as any future finishing may be made difficult at the best. Boiling melts from the outside layers of the wax and as we all know wax floats. Be sure to weigh the blanks down so the wax comes off and floats on the surface of the water. DO NOT LEAVE the blanks in the boiling water for any longer than is absolutely necessary or else you will be spending days/weeks/months waiting for the wood to dry.

IF the wood is still rather green I would highly recommend that you check out Steven Russells article adout boiling wood ... http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.html. Be sure to check out his HOME PAGE for additional interesting articles.

I have boiled many larger sized wax sealed bowl blanks using the dip and soak method with great success and few problems afterwards.

 

[Wildman]

JMHO, anybody selling wood blanks completely covered in wax, or other sealant doesn’t know what they are doing or don’t care. Are they hiding flaws or just passing along potential losses of usable wood? I don’t honestly know, just think it’s a crap shoot buying wood completely sealed.. I would be asking about their return policy, and who pays for return shipping?

There is no reason to cover an entire piece of wood in wax or other sealer. The only way wood can reach MC is through evaporation. When you cover the entire blank with wax or sealer that process cannot take place. Just sealing the ends will work and will allow the wood to dry or reach MC.

Yes, probably should remove excess wax from sides and let your blanks reach MC before turning. Any of the methods already discussed will work.

 

[Nolan]

Originally posted by Wildman

JMHO, anybody selling wood blanks completely covered in wax, or other sealant doesn’t know what they are doing or don’t care. Are they hiding flaws or just passing along potential losses of usable wood? I don’t honestly know, just think it’s a crap shoot buying wood completely sealed.. I would be asking about their return policy, and who pays for return shipping?

There is no reason to cover an entire piece of wood in wax or other sealer. The only way wood can reach MC is through evaporation. When you cover the entire blank with wax or sealer that process cannot take place. Just sealing the ends will work and will allow the wood to dry or reach MC.

Yes, probably should remove excess wax from sides and let your blanks reach MC before turning. Any of the methods already discussed will work.

Bill.
I think I would agree with you if we were talking pen blanks, but being one that imports wood products from around the world (burl) if you were to get 4000 kilos from Australia of first class burls and they were to ship to you in the states unwaxed you would probably loss 80%-90% of the load to cracking due to extreme MC changes. You (most people ) would have a hard time finding an exporter who is willing to sit on their burl long enough to dry to the point where the trip would not ruin them. This is just my opinion from my personal experience. Bottom line people seal the milled wood to prevent loss as most sellers are not willing to sit on cut product as it drys and absorb the loss due to drying, so they wax the cut blanks and sell them.

 

[Squeaker]

OK, Thanks to all that have replied. I am trying to remove the wax so I can glue pieces together and with the wax on, the glue doesn't stick. I also do not want any more penetration of the wood than is absolutely necessary. I am trying to work the wood before I turn it (which obviously will take the wax off). Thanks again for all the suggestions!

Squeker.....

 

[Paul Downes]

I use Anchor seal to seal the end grain of any blanks I want to dry slowly. The only eception to that rule is green bowl blamks. I coat the entire blank to keep moisture in it until I turn it. I would think that parrafin soaked into the wood would cause glue adhesion problems.

 

[Hello]

I scrape the wax off with the neighbor kids buck teeth.

 

[Hello]

.....or, what about putting the blan in a vice and using a small hand plan with a very shallow blade pitch and depth. You can take off the wax, and just a hairs width (or two) of the wood, the remainder of the wax should dissolve easily enough with a little isopropal alcohol and very fine steel wool pad (with the grain of course)

 

[redfishsc]

Scrape off what you can with a wire wheel on a 6" or 8" grinder (do not use one of the twisted wire-rope type wheels, too aggressive).

If that doesn't do it enough for you, finish it off with a belt sander-- just clamp the sander on it's back, put on an 80-grit, and CAREFULLY lap off the wax--- don't break a finger!