water slide decal material?

[CREID]

Ok, so i need to buy some more decal paper for inkjet. I have been using Testors, with limited success. Limited most likely because of my inexperience. What I would like to know is, what decal paper are you using? Testors, Micro Mark (don't know the brand name) I have also heard of some that i can't remember the name of but it starts with a P. Also, if you have used different brands, can you give me your comparison?
Thanx

 

[Skeleton2014]

What sort of issues are you having? I use Testors Clear decal paper with their spray bonder. After applying the decal, I will seal with a couple of light coats of Krylon Cover Maxx Crystal Clear Acrylic/Gloss before casting. I cast tubes in P Town Subbies silicon molds with a product called Tap Clear-Lite Casting Resin. The main thing I found is to give each step time to dry/cure before moving to next step. Haven't had any issues with Testors decals lately. Again, kind of hard to make suggestions without knowing what issues you are having.
Jeff

 

[CREID]

I think that the CA is melting the decal. I read in another post they used 5 or 6 coats of thin before going to medium because the medium will melt the decal (probably due to the longer time to cure). I have been using 2 coats of thin and then going to medium, so that may be the problem. I get a raised surface after the CA coating process and sanding (wet MM to 12000) and then with very little pressure the decal and CA will come off. I am definitely not sanding through the CA because you can see the thickness of the CA on the decal that comes off and it is pretty thick ( I put on 10 coats of medium). I buy the Testors from a local hobby store and that may be a problem also, who knows how many years it has been on their shelf.

 

[Skeleton2014]

I don't have much experience with CA and decals although I've read several good articles in the library about the process. There was one I tried about making the decal seams virtually disappear with CA. But, now I can't find it. It's possible the age of the paper could be responsible. How fresh is your CA? I'd try a fresh batch of both just to rule it out. Also, the decal bonder is an important step. One article said using two light coats at least an hour apart then letting it dry at least a day. It also mentioned the Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic to seal everything up. Then this person used 6 coats of medium CA applied at slow speed, wet sanded to 400 grit, micro meshed, then buffed using Tripoli and White Diamond. Another article called for 5 coats of thin CA, cure, then MM to 6.000 if you can see the edge, another 3 coats of medium CA, cure, then MM to 6,000.
The point is there are many different methods to using CA and decals. Maybe someone else can spot what's going on with your decals lifting off.
Good luck, Jeff

 

[CREID]

Yea, i have read the articles in the library and watched a lot of videos. I am sure the lifting of the decal is either melting from the CA or i am too aggressive and heating it up when i polish. I would like to hear about what people think about the different decal papers though.

 

[larryc]

I have had good luck with Testors on several hundred pens.
Polish the blank to 12000 MM. Six coats of thin CA on the blank, polish to 12000 MM then apply the decal that has been sprayed twice with clear Krylon then six more coats of thin CA. Polish to 12000 MM.

 

[JohnU]

I use Testors with success also, but I don't cast over them, I apply a CA finish over them. What larryc posted is pretty much what works for me also. No matter what the blank material is, I always start with a CA finish, so when you apply the decal, you are putting it on a smooth clear finish, which helps any clear decal edge disappear after you build the second CA finish over it. Like said above, just make sure you let each step dry for a day. I print the decals, let dry at least one day, spray with several light coats of clear, let dry one day, apply to finished blank and brush with micro sol, let dry under a light bulb (light heat) for an hour or so, then apply the second CA finish. Ive used less quality brand decal paper off ebay with limited success and a shorter shelf life. I stick with Testors now. JMHO

 

[Dave Turner]

I just did my first decal last week and it worked out great. I used Blinggasm Waterslide Paper. I printed my design using my Canon inkjet printer and allowed it to dry overnight. I then sprayed on two light coats of Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating and let that dry overnight. I then cut out the decal, soaked it in water for 20 seconds and it slid nicely off the backing paper onto my finished and polished acrylic blank. I was able to easily slide it to the correct position then used a wet folded paper towel to gently squeegee the decal and remove any air bubbles. On some practice pieces I did, I found that air bubbles will show, so you should take pains to remove all of them at this point. I had tried using Micro Sol Setting Solution on my practice piece, but found it did not really help much, at least for smooth polished acrylic. On a wood blank, it would probably be more useful to soften the decal and make it flow with the grain contours.

I let the decal dry on the blank overnight. The next day, I applied a CA finish to the acrylic blank using my standard technique (First coat is thin CA, followed by about 8 coats of medium CA applied with a folded paper towel. Aerosol can spray accelerant used after each coat). I then sanded and micromeshed my usual way until glassy shiny. The overlying CA completely hides the margins of the decal so it looks like it's a part of the acrylic. Very nice look.

 

[CREID]

Thanks for the responses. You all are doing pretty much what i am doing. Two exceptions, one, I am lazy so everything usually gets at least a couple days between steeps, and second, I don't use microsol. I am not getting bubbles, everything is perfectly fine until i apply the CA over the decal. I think the medium CA is not curing fast enough and melting the decal material. I think the first decal pen i did i put 5 or 6 coats of super thin on before i went to medium.

 

[Rick_G]

I've been using lasertran labels with good results. Inkjet, Water Print your own decals with the Inkjet printable waterslide transfer decal paper. Ideal for transferring your own art, design and images to candles, glass, wood, plastic and other surfacesslide Decal Paper, Print Decals, Transfer Images,
It dries with a chalky white background which can be turned clear by a coat of oil based poly. After that I do my normal CA finish building it up until I can get a smooth finish. May be a little more work than the testors (haven't been able to find them at a reasonable price with shipping) so I can't say for sure.
Here are a couple examples of my results.
http://www.undergroundwoodworking.ca/images/2349.png
http://www.undergroundwoodworking.ca/images/2087.png
http://lazertran.com/us/all-products/lazertran-inkjet-decal-paper-10-x-8.5x11.html

 

[RODNEYBREAN]

I'm not sure of your complete process but I do decals all the time, if its wood or antler I put 6 coats of medium CA sand to 400, wet polish with all micro mesh, print decal, let dry, spray 2 light coats of gloss Crystal Clear,let dry then I coat the area with Micro set, lay the decal and brush over the decal with Micro set, let dry,then another 4 coats of med. CA. I have found that if you print decals and spray them with the clear coat and leave them for a fer days or longer they don't want to stick as well. I used to print a whole sheet of decals , spray them and use them when I needed and the longer they sit the more brittle and rigid the clear coat gets, making them not adhere well a week or so.

 

[CREID]

I'm not sure of your complete process but I do decals all the time, if its wood or antler I put 6 coats of medium CA sand to 400, wet polish with all micro mesh, print decal, let dry, spray 2 light coats of gloss Crystal Clear,let dry then I coat the area with Micro set, lay the decal and brush over the decal with Micro set, let dry,then another 4 coats of med. CA. I have found that if you print decals and spray them with the clear coat and leave them for a fer days or longer they don't want to stick as well. I used to print a whole sheet of decals , spray them and use them when I needed and the longer they sit the more brittle and rigid the clear coat gets, making them not adhere well a week or so.

That's interesting since i did print the decals ahead of time and one sat for a couple months and one other sat for over a week. I haven't used microset and for an overcoat i used decal bonder from testors. I do 4 or 5 coats of thin CA and a couple med, then sand to 400 wet mm to 12,000 then apply decal wait a day and put a couple coats of thin then go to medium. I have done decals recently (few months ago and did the same process with success) and i am not sure what is wrong. Temp wouldn't be an issue since it is in the basement and the temp there is the same most of the year.

 

[jondavidj]

I buy my decal paper from DecalPaper.com - Decals - Waterslide decal paper or inkjet,laser printers Alps & copiers. They have the injet and laser. I get 100 sheets for $75. Hope that helps!