Walnut pens ... Best finish

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Beemrider

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Joined
Apr 2, 2010
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2
Location
Komoka Ontario Canada
Hi folks , I have a customer for whom I make walnut cutting boards. He has asked for some walnut pens as well. Normally I prefer making pens from burls, M3, other exotic or highly figured woods ... Because I find them to be much more interesting. I find walnut to be a bit drab as a pen due to its size even though it's spectacular as a cutting board.

With the pens I've turned lately I can't seem to get a good finish even using my usual CA/BLO finishing method. Has anybody tried using a sanding sealer first or have any other suggestions for finishing a walnut pen to get good results?

Thanks in advance for all responses.
 
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Charlie69

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Apr 12, 2013
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I've used both thinned epoxy and minwax wood hardener as sander sealers on walnut and both work great....with the nod going to the thinned epoxy. I like to thin the epoxy at least %25 with either acetone, xylene or dna. The thinner you choose isn't that important they all work good. Thinning the epoxy lets you paint it on and keeps the bubbles to a minimum.
 

Brian G

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Jul 2, 2013
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Bloomington, MN
I like to apply walnut oil liberally after the final sanding, let it soak in, apply some more, let it soak in, wait an hour or two, wipe off the excess with a shop towel, let it sit for two or three days, wipe it off once more with a shop towel, and then apply the final finish.
 

Rink

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May 12, 2013
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NW Arkansas
I've used straight CA several times with great results. BUT...I apply about 20 coats, thin CA, very thinly, using a blue shop towel. I basically use the method described on a doc in the IAP library. After I read that and began using that process, my finishing quality ramped up several notches I have used Black Walnut harvested from my home place here in Northwest Arkansas.
 

Sprung

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Jul 1, 2014
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773
Location
NE WI
My favorite way to finish walnut is this:

After turning, dry sand through 600 grit. Then wet sand with 600 grit with a 1:1:1 mixture of BLO, de-waxed shellac, and denatured alcohol. This is actually a friction polish too, so I do allow the heat to build up a little and allow it to "set." One added bonus to this is that it also helps to fill in the pores on walnut.

I then set it aside for a week or so to let what I've applied cure. Then I give it a very very light dry sanding with 600 grit, then go on to a CA finish.

One of my most recent pens from a piece of figured english walnut was finished this way, as is seen in the attached picture. I've done a straight CA finish on walnut and it just doesn't have that wow or pop to it. But when I use the 1:1:1 mixture and wetsand the walnut with it, then later apply a CA finish, it really pops. (I don't do CA/BLO - I use an accelerator.)
 

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Beemrider

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
2
Location
Komoka Ontario Canada
My favorite way to finish walnut is this:

After turning, dry sand through 600 grit. Then wet sand with 600 grit with a 1:1:1 mixture of BLO, de-waxed shellac, and denatured alcohol. This is actually a friction polish too, so I do allow the heat to build up a little and allow it to "set." One added bonus to this is that it also helps to fill in the pores on walnut.

I then set it aside for a week or so to let what I've applied cure. Then I give it a very very light dry sanding with 600 grit, then go on to a CA finish.

One of my most recent pens from a piece of figured english walnut was finished this way, as is seen in the attached picture. I've done a straight CA finish on walnut and it just doesn't have that wow or pop to it. But when I use the 1:1:1 mixture and wetsand the walnut with it, then later apply a CA finish, it really pops. (I don't do CA/BLO - I use an accelerator.)

That's a beautiful finish, thanks for sharing. I'm m not sure I have the patience to put it aside for a week though. :redface:
 

Sprung

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Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Messages
773
Location
NE WI
That's a beautiful finish, thanks for sharing. I'm m not sure I have the patience to put it aside for a week though. :redface:

Thank you! For me, setting it aside for a week or more isn't a problem. I get so little shop time these days that most pens I turn get turned and then sit at least a week or two (or, sadly, longer than that) before I have time to switch over to finishing and finish them. :redface:
 
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