Vacuum and pickle jars??

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Marc Phillips

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Could someone point me in the right direction....

I read the posts here and see references to vacuum pumps and pickle jars...

What are these being used for?

Sorry for being such a newbie, but I really have no clue what is being discussed [:I]
 
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ctEaglesc

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HAve you tried the search function(also the archives?)
Threads abound, and the search function on this site is second to none.
 

its_virgil

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Marc,
Vacuum is used for two different but similar reasons. Some use vacuum as a step in stabilizing wood...to fill any voids, cracks, etc with a resin. It also makes softer woods and punky spalted woods much harder. If you've never turned a stabilized blank, treat yourself to one. You;ll love'em.

Others of us use vacuum to degass resin as a step in casting our own plastic pen blanks using polyester resin, epoxy resin, or some other type of resin. I use it for getting the air out of clear polyester resin for casting rattlesnake skin pen blanks. Read my article on the home page for an idea of how vacuum is used for casting. Sorry, but I've not done any stabilizing...I buy'em already done or have them done professionally...

As eagle mentioned, there are several threads on both stabiizing and casting that mention vacuum, pressure, pickle jars, implosions, no implosions, yes it will, no it won't, can't work, works for me, it shouldn't, it does, ....

Do a good turn daily!
Don
[:D]
Originally posted by Marc Phillips
<br />Could someone point me in the right direction....

I read the posts here and see references to vacuum pumps and pickle jars...

What are these being used for?

Sorry for being such a newbie, but I really have no clue what is being discussed [:I]
 

cozee

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Without having searched through all the previos threads, which can make for a long read due to the arguing and bickering, clarification of "pickle jar" should be foremeost. What I use, and I hope most that do use them are referring to canning jars such as Mason or Ball. The ones you buy pickles in at the store are throw-away jars and intended for the most part simply to get the contents to the consumer. Regular canning jars are designed to be reused and constructed as such. Much more solid in design and application and well able to withstand the use as a vacuum container.

Here are a couple of threads to check out:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17799&SearchTerms=pikkle,jar

http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17796&SearchTerms=pikkle,jar
 

ctEaglesc

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Regular bought at the store "pickle jars" work fine.
Their only short fall is the seal in the cap, that is made for just a few uses.
The advantage of "store bought" Larger pickle jars is the height and size of the openings.
Eventually a new "lid" is necessary Aluminum, plexiglass, lexan etc.but it has nothing to do with the strength just the manufacterers gasket.
I also use "Ball canning" jars because of the replaceable "dome" for different solutions, I may have three hooked up to my venturi pump at the same time by means of different "T's and valves and what type of blanks I am making.
If you don't feel comfortable with jars that pickles come in from the store that's O.K. too.I find the larger size better suited for my use and I have had NO problems with the jars themselves.
(2 year user of pickle jars, The BIG Vlasic and Mt Olive ones)
 
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here's my version of a hand pump made with a half gallon glass jar and i get 20in of vaccum. i have a one gallon jar i have not yet setup. i like how it works. it works for me. i only stabilize what i want to turn the next week. i use a 50/50 solution of oil base polyurathane. i bought the hand vac at the local auto parts store.

laurie

DSC00819.jpg
 

ctEaglesc

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Laurie-
Other than the solution you are using, that is exactly what I started with 2 years ago.
Since I started with acetone and plexiglass( as others have switched to and like) the acetone had a detrimental effect on the plastic parts of the pump when the pump dropped lower than the vessel.
The HF venturi pump with a compressor beats the hand pump version for my money.
AS long as it works and you are satisfied that's all that counts.
 
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thanks big guy, i'm sure that when i get turn more often instead of working a real job (locksmith), i will move up to a motorized vacuum. as you and i said for that one corncob a week it's perfect.

laurie
 

Marc Phillips

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I didn't mean to bring up a sore subject, based on the previous threads...

I can now see what the vacuum would do for PR etc... I will read up on stabilizing blanks now...

Thanks all
 

leehljp

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Originally posted by Marc Phillips
<br />I didn't mean to bring up a sore subject, based on the previous threads...

I can now see what the vacuum would do for PR etc... I will read up on stabilizing blanks now...
Thanks all

Marc,

By now you probably have seen references to Harbor Freights paint pressure tank, found here! These are used by many for the same purpose you are seeking and will be safer in the long run, but do cost more.

There are two basic ways to stabilize blanks - 1. Vacuum, 2. Pressure. I think most people use vacuum. A few use both - pull a vacuum for a few minutes to get most of the bubbles/air out and then pressure to drive the stabilizer deeper into/through the wood.
 

its_virgil

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Since my mishap with the lid made from corian I've been using the HF pressure paint tank to vacuum the resing I use to cast snake skin blanks. I put the resin into two mason jars (because I have lots of them) and set the jars inside the tank and attach the vacuum pump. I know how much it bubbles and the jars are large enough to prevent the resin from bubbling over and spilling. I leave the vacuum on for 15 minutes then pour the resin inot the molds and back into the HF tank for the pressure treatment. Working ok so far. I would still have the need to look inside had I not already done that and am confident I know how the resin will behave. I found a guage that measures both vacuum and pressure. Happy casting and stabilizing and be safe.
Do a good turn dailyu!
Don
Originally posted by leehljp
<br />
Originally posted by Marc Phillips
<br />I didn't mean to bring up a sore subject, based on the previous threads...

I can now see what the vacuum would do for PR etc... I will read up on stabilizing blanks now...
Thanks all

Marc,

By now you probably have seen references to Harbor Freights paint pressure tank, found here! These are used by many for the same purpose you are seeking and will be safer in the long run, but do cost more.

There are two basic ways to stabilize blanks - 1. Vacuum, 2. Pressure. I think most people use vacuum. A few use both - pull a vacuum for a few minutes to get most of the bubbles/air out and then pressure to drive the stabilizer deeper into/through the wood.
 
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