Using alluminium in wood, getting poor results

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daveeisler

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I know I have seen a post or two, but I can't find it, if I am laminating using metal,(thanks Skiprat for teaching me) when I do my sanding at the end, it stains the wood, so how to avoid this, what method do you use, many thanks, Dave.
 
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leehljp

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I know I have seen a post or two, but I can't find it, if I am laminating using metal,(thanks Skiprat for teaching me) when I do my sanding at the end, it stains the wood, so how to avoid this, what method do you use, many thanks, Dave.

There are several ways and I will let others comment on them as their preferences.

My preferences are turning with a "very sharp" and "keep it sharpened during use" scraper and high speed (2000 RPM or higher).

I learned this method when I was looking for a way to keep solder from smearing. You can read about it here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38213&highlight=30+pieces+silver

Two other links of people who did the same can be seen here:
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48783&highlight=sanding+dust

and here:

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45147&highlight=sanding+dust

In this post, Russ Fairfield talks about the scraper and how smooth it can make hard wood and does well with metal laminates also. But a scraper does not do that on softer wood.
http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?p=842549#post842549

In essence - a very sharp scraper and using a fine touch and high speed - will cut and clean at the same time.
 

leehljp

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I should have asked all of you this question too, how or what do you use then for a finish, Thank you all, Dave

Dave, once you get it smooth without sanding dust, Poly, CA, Lacquer, Enduro, Acrylic - any of those will do fine. What ever your prefer.

You asked a good question and I will give you some advice that I learned from experience: Use thick coats or several medium. You do NOT want to sand through a finish to the wood and aluminum. Repeat - you do not want to do that. :eek: :rolleyes: I spend some quality time in carefully applying finish over segments so that I don't have to take it all off because of one sand through.

I tried something in the spring and it worked well - I have several 8 OZ of CA. I put stoppers in the end of several segmented blanks and dipped them into the CA. Several people do the dipping with Enduro/Lacquer and I think someone does Acrylic/Acetone that way too, but not sure. It works well and coats evenly. I just decided to try it with CA. With medium, I dipped twice and then turned them for final sanding and finishing. Worked well.
 

workinforwood

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The CA is the finish. CA is a hard plastic. Enduro, poly..whatever, they are all plastics of different properties and all have their advantages and disadvantages, just like anything else. What Hank is saying is that he is dipping his pen in CA. Then when it is dry he spins it on the lathe with his chisel to even out the dried CA..it can have some runs or whatever..like any finish could. Then you would..or lets say I would dry sand it with the lathe off with 320 paper..gently, just to smooth it all out. Then I would get my towel, lay it over the bed, grab my water bottle and wet sand 320, 400 then the micro mesh pads to 8000 or more if you like and then with an auto buffing pad I apply plastic polish and finally some auto polish.

Notice, he is putting a cork in it before he dips it so no CA gets in the tubes. I apply my CA on the lathe if that's the finish I chose. No bushings, no mandrel. Using bushings or a mandrel, you can have CA stuck to them and risk chipping the finish removing them or in the case of a mandrel you can glue the tube to the mandrel and have a bugger of a time getting the pen off. I just stick the blank between the lathe centers and apply thin CA with the lathe on real slow and using a plastic part baggy turned inside out over my finger spread the CA across the pen and spray with accelorator then do next coat and so on for 4 coats or so. The baggy needs to be inside out if it has red letters on it or the letters will come off onto the pen. takes some practice.
 

daveeisler

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Jeff, that is some great info and it is just how I imagined what Hank was saying, I read another article some where , that applying, petrolium jelly to the bushing would keep the CA from sticking to the bushing, it looks like the CA while on the lathe method would be easier, just need to do as you say and not get any on the bushing, I would think plastic wrap would work if jammed between the bushing and barrell, and not pushed to tight. I need to play around with it , Thank you all for your advise, more is always welcome. Dave
 

leehljp

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I just want to clarify the reason that I mentioned dipping - Dipping seems to me (could be wrong) to add a much thicker coat - than wiping it on while it is on the lathe.

The thicker coats take longer to dry of course. For me, in trying it (dipping) with CA, I let each coat dry at least overnight in warm weather. The dipping (or double dipping) gives a thick enough coat that sand-through does not occur easily.

I don't do this with normal pens, only with special segments where sanding causes a problem.
 
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