Urgent Question

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jimbob91577

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Aug 18, 2008
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So I put the band on wrong for a pen that I'm trying to make, and I desperately need to dissassemble the coupler from the pen barrel to fix it.

I don't have a replacement part, so I'm trying to do this without destroying anything.

Help?

The top set of instructions is how the pen should go together, I put the band on wrong as illustrated by the band positioning. screwup.jpg
 
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KenV

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Looks like it might be a Baron -- DAMHINT -- you have a set of transfer punches?? A few taps and it is out.

If you do not have a set of transfer punches, it will be the best spent 10 bucks (HF on sale) or a bit more that you ever spend.

Where -- harbor freight, lee valley tools, ENCO etc
 

jimbob91577

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I have access to a set, but I'm still unsure how to hold the barrel of the pen and punch the coupler out without damaging anything. I also have the barrel trimmer sleeve that I'm trying to use as a puch also...
 

ed4copies

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You hold the barrel in your hand, insert the appropriate size punch (Just fits in the hole) and hit the punch with a hammer - smartly (as the Brits would say) and OFTEN (as the Americans would say).

Once it starts moving, put it over a wadded up towel, so it doesn't bounce as high and is not as hard to find when it comes off!!!

Take off all jewelry (rings) so you don't scratch your barrel.

When in doubt, eat another helping of Wheaties!!! It can be done.
 

Russianwolf

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I do it a bit differently.

Drill a whole through a board just bigger than the coupler. With the finial screwed into the coupler, place the coupler in the hole with the barrel pointing up (the ring is supported by the wood, sitting on the rim of the hole). Put the transfer punch (use one that barely fits through the coupler) in and one or two hits should remove the opposite end.

I do it this way since there is no chance at marring the finish.
 

ed4copies

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Mike,

I like your method, except it appears to me that the trim ring is then taking the impact of the "blows" . Doesn't the trim ring get bent?

Again, I am not arguing, just don't want someone to try your method then yell at you about damaging the hardware!!
 

Russianwolf

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in the normal position it doesn't at all. In the reversed position there is a small chance depending on how much slop you allow in the hole. If the hole it barely larger than the coupler, then the force should be transfered to the raised portion of the trim ring, not the outside where it could bend. If the hole is too large, then it's possible to transfer the force to the outside of the ring where there's nothing supporting it and bend the ring.

But also remember that the smaller something is the harder it is to deform/bend/break. The ring is only a couple mm wide, so it can take a fair amount of force.
 

jimbob91577

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Thanks Mike - I'll try your suggestion when I go home for lunch...In theory, if I use the same drill bit I used to drill the hole in the acrylic, that should be the right size. Also, if I use the barrel trimming sleeve instead of threading the finial on I should be able to push it out right?
 

jimbob91577

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One more thing - if I do damage the coupler or band in the process, how is Penn State at replacing single parts like that - will they do something like this or should I expect to replace the whole kit?

BTW - this is a scepter pen from PSI
 

Russianwolf

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Andrew, I've used my method with nothing but success, each kit I've been able to reassemble and works flawlessly. It my be because I use the finial to help remove it. The punch is putting the force on the pressed in portion of the finial (not the cap itself), so the coupler is just sliding out, no real contact. Give it a try when you have the need and see how it works.

Jimbob, be careful using the same bit. It may be a bit too tight and damage the plating on the coupler when it slides through. Test fit it and use a file if you think its a touch tight. (I have a 114 piece drill bit set, so was able to find one a a hair larger than the barron coupler) Also My best result come from having the board raised so the finial has somewhere to escape. I just set the board on a couple pieces of scrap wood to give an inch of clearance. Something to catch the parts would be good to as Ed mentioned.

I haven't made any of PSI's kits in a while and haven't needed any parts, so can't say there.
 

jimbob91577

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Mike - that fixed my problem, I was able to pop out the coupler. FWIW - I drilled into a piece of oak the size of the hole I put into the pen blank. Used the sleeve for the barrel trimmer and pushed the coupler out.

Penn State is sending me a replacement coupler and band for the pen as my wife "worked on it" while I was at work this morning. She scratched up the plating on the coupler and band.

I also have to order another tube for it because she chipped out the acrylic at the shoulder of the barrel.

Thanks for your help!
 

chriselle

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This is an interesting thread in that this mistake is one we all have made ONCE....which leads me to question....How come some of you fellas have a "method" for this?? :biggrin: Just curious..:tongue:
 

Russianwolf

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The one time I did what Jimbob did, I would up ruining the parts and the blank. My method is what I use when I decide that I don't like the way something came together (the color combination, the fit, the barrel cracks, etc.) Never had the chance to try it in this situation though.
 

Fred

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Gee guys ya coulda covered your own butts by telling them you read about this problem happening on the Forum ... now everyone in his brother knows we are all guilty of this same thing at least once in our pen making careers ... [NOT me of course, I just read about this mistake being made by others and it's remedies here in the Forum!] :wink:
 
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Joe L

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I've had to dis-assemble more than I like to admit. Yes, I've the punches, but I also use a piece of leather to wrap around the barrel, insert in a vice and then use 2 hands (punch in one hand, hammer in other)... with a towel or some object to catch the part.
-joe L
 

Chris Bar

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I use a rubber cap snaffler (in my case a 4 inch square thin piece of textured rubber...not the rubber ring kind) to hold the pen/barrel assembly. Does not mar the finish and makes it easier to hold so I can hit it "very smartly" :). The cap snafflers hang on my peg board within easy reach since they serve similar duty for other applications. Rubber textured gloves might work as well.
 
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