Tycoon troubles

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law_kid

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Apr 5, 2017
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I am having the worst luck with the PSI "tycoon" kits in terms of destroying blanks. I have blown out or cracked a number of synthetic blanks, including Lava Brights (plastic) and acrylester blanks. (I've never cracked a synthetic blank while on the lathe at any other time, and I am not really sure how it even happens; I haven't had blowouts like this since I was a rookie acrylic turner.) I've lost 8 of the last 10 blanks I've tried on this pen, and I am starting to wonder if the kit itself just doesn't allow for enough "meat" to be left on the tube when the blank is turned down to final size.

I have been having great luck with other fountain pen kits, but wanted to turn a few more economical ones, and Tycoon seemed like a good choice. However, at this point, the money I'm losing in blanks is thwarting my economical aspirations.

Has anyone else ever had particular challenges with this kit?
 
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leehljp

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. . . and I am starting to wonder if the kit itself just doesn't allow for enough "meat" to be left on the tube when the blank is turned down to final size.

Has anyone else ever had particular challenges with this kit?

"enough meat" suggests that that the blank is not thick enough, or the tool is not sharp enough, or the method requires some changes. It is not the kit per se. It could be the adhesive that you use to glue the tube to the blanks.

There have been numerous discussions here over the past couple of years on the different acrylic/synthetic (not wood) brittleness and forgiveness or non-forgiveness of different materials. The more brittle, the more delicate need of turning or change in methodology. CA gluing does not always grip totally and often leaves spots not totally filled. Delicate blanks will 'explode" quickly and easily from lack of proper adhesion.

Even on some wood blanks long ago, the pen maker would wind string (now many use gauze) and soak in CA to keep it from blowing out when they made the initial cuts; And some would turn just a tad and then re-cover with string/gauze - CA and turn down a bit more. This is an acknowledgement that the blank is delicate or brittle and a different approach is needed. And they kept their tools sharp. I don't use carbide often and mainly use my HSS tools. I turn for 30 second to a minute, swipe the tool across a hone two or three times and turn for 30 seconds to a minute, swipe again . . . etc. The point is that the tool is kept pristine sharp minute by minute. You cannot push tools beyond their pristine sharpness state and expect a blank not to blow out. You might get by on some but it will bite you on delicate wood and acrylic/synthetic blanks.

Delicate blanks or delicate situations are not a defect but a call for a different approach.
 
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ed4copies

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My first guess would be drilling.

When you glue the tube in, is it snug? Or is the tube in a larger hole than necessary?

If the hole is overly large, the tube will go to one side, leaving you a gap on the other side of the hole. When you turn, the material on the "gap side" gets MUCH thinner than the material on the "tube side", creating a very high probability of a "catch" and rip off the material.

Hope this is understandable,

Ed
 

its_virgil

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Jan 1, 2004
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Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
The tycoon is basically PSI's baron clone. I've made lots and lots of barons. Most of them were snake skin blanks which are also plastic. There are other kits with less meat. I really doubt the kit is the problem. You probably don't want to hear that. You have bern hiven some good advice and suggestions. You must figure out what is happening. Best of luck. Personally i am not an acrylester fan.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
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law_kid

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Apr 5, 2017
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Manassas, VA
My first guess would be drilling.

When you glue the tube in, is it snug? Or is the tube in a larger hole than necessary?

If the hole is overly large, the tube will go to one side, leaving you a gap on the other side of the hole. When you turn, the material on the "gap side" gets MUCH thinner than the material on the "tube side", creating a very high probability of a "catch" and rip off the material.

You know, I think you might be right! Now that you mention it, I think that my 15/32" drill bit has a bit of a wobble to it, as some of the holes I've drilled have seemed a bit oversized.

I think I need a new bit.
 

ed4copies

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When you know the material is going to be thin, drill an undersized hole, then increase the size with progressively larger drill bits until you reach one that just fits the tube.

IGNORE THE INSTRUCTIONS, USE YOUR CALIPER TO MEASURE!!!!!

Holes in resins are not always the same size as holes in wood.

It took me dozens of pens (ruined--Churchill caps) to figure out the above information--but I always knew it was something in MY control---start there and investigate--eventually you find an answer (which is very rewarding!!!)
 

law_kid

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Apr 5, 2017
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Location
Manassas, VA
When you know the material is going to be thin, drill an undersized hole, then increase the size with progressively larger drill bits until you reach one that just fits the tube.

It took me dozens of pens (ruined--Churchill caps) to figure out the above information--but I always knew it was something in MY control---start there and investigate--eventually you find an answer (which is very rewarding!!!)

Thanks! You should start a business or something. :biggrin:

Jim
 

ed4copies

Local Chapter Manager
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
24,523
Location
Racine, WI, USA.
When you know the material is going to be thin, drill an undersized hole, then increase the size with progressively larger drill bits until you reach one that just fits the tube.

It took me dozens of pens (ruined--Churchill caps) to figure out the above information--but I always knew it was something in MY control---start there and investigate--eventually you find an answer (which is very rewarding!!!)

Thanks! You should start a business or something. :biggrin:

Jim


Dawn did that, she keeps telling me I'm an in-valuable ass-set (is that a compliment???):biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 
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