two Questions.....hopefully can be answered

[wizical]

Hey everyone,

I have two questions....

1) I just purchased the sierra pen and I just noticed that the Brass tube slides too easily over the writing nib of the pen, is this normal or am I missing something. If someone knows anything about this. let me know.

2)who has the best method of turning acrylic pens. I have struggle and want to know the best way to approach this, thank you

 

[karlkuehn]

Heya!

The Sierra is a little different. The tube itself doesn't slide onto the nib, it friction fits on the upper part of the nib assembly, I think. You should be okay.

As far as acrylics, I just use a gouge until I get somewhere near where I want it to be, and then skew the rest. Go easy and use really sharp tools. Good luck! I still lose one now and again. [B)]

 

[toolcrazy]

Assemble the nib assembly then push it into the main tube, it will hold fine with friction. Just make sure the transmission is nice and tight, but not too tight. You do need to disassemble it to replace the cartridge.

For acrylic, I use a spindle gouge, nice and sharp, then finish with a skew.

 

[Rmartin]

The brass tube doesn't accuate the twist action of the Sierra. Press the clip/cap assembly into the top, and then the lower assembly is hand pressed through the bottom of the blank.

Sharp tools at the highest speed!

 

[rlharding]

check the library for videos on PR/resin/acrylic. You should come up with a few videos going through the steps.

 

[Dan_F]

I thought there was a problem on my first one too. Just put it together per the directions and it will be fine. It has to fit loosely on the tube in order to unscrew the pen to replace the cartridge. You will see once it's together.

Dan

 

[Rudy Vey]

The nib end must be free and easy spinning. The pen is actually held together by the transmission in the upper part. I turn acrylics and other plastics the same way I turn wood: spindle gouge, then skew and then sanding. Wet or dry. Dry sanding must be done careful, it gets hot easily and then you have some sanding dust and loose grit forming lines on the pen. Lengthwise sanding with the lathe off helps here. Wet sanding is great, but you must protect your lathe bead and surroundings from water spritzes. I started dry sanding not too long ago, when I did my first snakeskin, some "sanding" water seeped in between the tube and the acrylic. Since then, I dry sand, and now all my plastics.

 

[airrat]

A couple tricks I use on acrylic:

Knock off the edges with a belt sander

When turning and one is giving me a hard time, I use some 80 grit paper and slightly rough up the surface of the blanks. Then I go back to turning.

 

[ed4copies]

section 2"

All "acrylics" are not created equal. IF you turn them all the same, you will ruin some and waste half a lifetime on others.

Also what is referred to as "acrylic" can incorporate Polyresins and other types of plastics - IF you turn them all the same, see above.

There is no substitute for experience. But, learn how to use a skew and MANY types of plastic will become easier. The difference, from one to another, is in your "touch" and the angle used to approach the blank. I could SHOW you, but I sure can't TELL you.

 

[marionquill]

I use a very sharp gouge (hand sharpened) on the acrylic to round it out, then use a very sharp skew. I dip them in cold water after each pass to keep the temperature of the blanks down. Acrylics take much longer to turn, make a nasty mess, and smell badly but I've never made one I didn't love

 

[ashaw]

Keven

I turn only with a skew. But the skew must be scary sharp other you will be putting to much pressure on the blank resulting in to much heat. It took me about 2 years to get the process down right. From beginning to end. The biggest problem I had was with fine scratches left on the blank. With some trail and error I now have a scratch free surface. I did not give up until it was repeatable. Now they a good enough to be sold in stores. Good luck pm me if you need any help.

Alan