Turning synthetics with a skew - Page 2 - International Association of Penturners
     International Association of Penturners
Pens for Service Members
 
Support The IAP

Go Back   International Association of Penturners > Community Forums > Penturning
  Forgot Password
Register FAQ Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read
Penturning General penturning discussions not specifically addressed in one of the specialty forums.


Logged on members can hide ads!

Welcome to penturners.org!

You've found the home of The International Association of Penturners. You are currently viewing our site as a guest, which gives you limited access to view discussions, photos, and library articles.

Consider joining our community today. You'll have full access to all of our content, be able to enter our contests, find local chapters near you, and post your questions and share your experience with our members all over the world.

Membership is completely free!!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-07-2017, 11:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
robutacion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Posts: 5,423
Photos: 4

Default

Yeah sure, the shew is a great tool, not so easy to be good at it but is true that done right the sanding is minimised considerably but, what I wanted to say is that you guys need to try the "Flap Disc System" it does a great job also in my view, others may disagree...!

Cheers
George
__________________
"Don't give others what you don't like for yourself"

Email: nyodine@yahoo.com.au

Web-Store: https://www.georges-bits-of-timber.com/
Likes: (1)
robutacion is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 11-08-2017, 12:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX, NM or on the road
Posts: 1,242
Photos: 0

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by robutacion View Post
Yeah sure, the shew is a great tool, not so easy to be good at it but is true that done right the sanding is minimised considerably but, what I wanted to say is that you guys need to try the "Flap Disc System" it does a great job also in my view, others may disagree...!

Cheers
George
I call your system the 60 grit skew. It does keep me from having blow outs on segmented blanks.
dogcatcher is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 11-08-2017, 08:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
Sylvanite's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Hillsborough, North Carolina, USA.
Posts: 2,770
Photos: 35

Default

If you want to build confidence using a skew chisel, I recommend you find some pen blanks made from opaque Alumilite resin (not Alumilite Clear), i.e. Alumilite White or Alumilite RC3 Black. Of all the synthetic materials I've tried, opaque Alumilite is by far the easiest and most forgiving to turn. The first time I tried it, my immediate reaction was that I finally understood how the skew was supposed to feel, and I easily got the "ribbons" people were talking about. The only downside was that I had to stop periodically to remove them.

Alumilite White also sands and polishes easily. Alumilite RC3 Black tends to show scratches, so it's a little more difficult to polish to a high shine. They are both opaque so there's no need for back-painting. The White can yellow a little over time, and some of the dyes (particularly the red) fade, but apart from that opaque Alumilite is one of my favorite materials to turn.

I hope that helps,
Eric
__________________
Eric Rasmussen
http://www.erasmuspens.com
Rifle cartridges (bullet pen kits) for penturning available at:
http://www.bulletpenkits.com
Likes: (2)
Sylvanite is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Advertisement
Old 11-08-2017, 09:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
robutacion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Posts: 5,423
Photos: 4

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogcatcher View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by robutacion View Post
Yeah sure, the shew is a great tool, not so easy to be good at it but is true that done right the sanding is minimised considerably but, what I wanted to say is that you guys need to try the "Flap Disc System" it does a great job also in my view, others may disagree...!

Cheers
George
I call your system the 60 grit skew. It does keep me from having blow outs on segmented blanks.

Yeah, mine are actually 36/40 grit and then 120 grit, whatever you see the system helps you with, is all OK by me, it's an option that some may not mind to use and those that don't, its fine by me too...!

Cheers
George
__________________
"Don't give others what you don't like for yourself"

Email: nyodine@yahoo.com.au

Web-Store: https://www.georges-bits-of-timber.com/
robutacion is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 11-12-2017, 09:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Ohio
Posts: 43
Photos: 0

Default

I don't turn much acrylic. I only use my skew for planing cuts, but in my experience with acrylic:
The skew works great.
Except when it doesn't.
And by that I mean the catches and dig ins with a skew in acrylic are even more eventful than in wood.
In wood you get an opportunity to redesign, in acrylic you get an opportunity to drill another blank.

Be careful with the skew when you get started, but keep with it. It is a really great tool and is the last thing I use on most everything I turn. Iff I have a lot of material to take off a spindle I will practice my skew after I get it round to get it to rough shape, then bowl gouge to get it to shape, then skew planing to flatten out any straights.
The more I practice the skew the more I like it.
Take at least a little of the corners off.

Last edited by JPW062; 11-12-2017 at 09:20 PM.
JPW062 is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Old 11-13-2017, 09:30 AM   #16 (permalink)
 
Beautys_Beast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Wisconsin/
Posts: 90
Photos: 0

Default

I seldomly use anything more than an old large 1 1/4 in roughing gouge, and a skew, to turn pens. Both have to be RAZOR sharp. I rough down to about the shape I want, and finish with the skew. How do I know I have it sharp enough? When the cuts are floating in the air because they are so thin. I can actually "feel" when the skew is loosing it's edge, and my grinder is right next to my lathe. I sharpen between each blank at a minimum. I can go from skew to Micromesh pads without a problem. No other sanding needed. Personally, when turning acrylic, I never dry sand. I do have some strips of 600 and 1200 wet paper I use if I feel it is needed.

Last edited by Beautys_Beast; 11-13-2017 at 09:32 AM.
Beautys_Beast is offline   Reply With Quote Top
Related Content
Logged on members can hide ads
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
gouge , sanding , skew , synthetic

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:19 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

Content Copyright © 2003-2016 by Penturners.org, LLC; All Rights Reserved
Terms Of Service   Acceptable Use Policy