Turning spalted blanks

[gomeral]

So I finally decided to move to something other than a simple hardwood slimline and I think I'm going to have trouble finishing it. I chose a spalted blank, expecting to have to stabilize with CA as I went, but it's been trouble. I suspect my tools aren't as razor sharp as they could be (I touched them up before starting, but I think I need a good, long sharpening session), so that would explain why I'm digging out the softer spalted wood and getting micro-blowouts (what do you call it when tiny bits break off the ends of the blanks?), however I am also having similar trouble when sanding it.

I tried stabilizing with thin CA (it takes a LOT of CA, this stuff is porous!), but I was still digging out with my tools, so I switched to 100grit. Didn't really help, I'm still sanding the lighter parts down faster than the denser stuff. I took the blanks off the lathe while they are still ~3/16" wall thickness and I've liberally doused with thin CA again, I'll try again tomorrow.

Am I doing this right? Is spalted wood just harder to turn than I imagined?


daniel

 

[ldb2000]

It can be a problem wood depending on how punky it is . Just keep pouring on the thin CA .

 

[Fred]

Use loads of thin CA and allow the CA plenty of time to set. I try not to use any activator spray as it tends to cause bubbles for me when I have loaded the wood down with CA.

Once you get it cut down a bit more, retreat the wood with more CA.

Your tools really do need to be 'scary sharp' if the wood is really punky. Blow outs are caused more by dull tool edges pulling out the wood than cutting it. So, keep your tools sharp as possible.

I have found that turning at high speeds also helps with spalted wood.

Good luck!

 

[Wildman]

Have turned quite a bit of spalted wood. Some pieces will defy any attempt you do to make it become something respectable. Not every piece of spalted wood can be salvaged, don't care how sharp your tools are, lathe speed, or how much CA glue, & saw dust mix used.

When chipping is taken place on ends or other places along the blank. Have had minimal success using CA & saw dust mix. I use a coffee grinder to grind shaving to get my filler. Some folks use coffee grounds, or add coffee grounds or something else to saw dust CA mix.

 

[fyrcaptn]

spalted wood

that is spalted wood. Its a challenge under most circumstances.
I like to turn it partly because is can be such a pain. Almost tests your conviction~
But when it turns out, you've got something to show for it.
Nice solid plain wood turns well but what do you have when you're done?
When it comes to difficult woods, I've learned to hope more and expect less.

 

[jackrichington]

I have found one must liberally apply thin ca inside the blank and then lots of thick ca for the tube..if the inside of the blank isn't hardened and securely attached to the brass tube it will surely come off

 

[wdcav1952]

Also consider removing the blank from the mandrel and soaking the thin CA into the ends of the blank.

 

[gomeral]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll try again tonight. After I posted, I told my wife the problem I'd been having - she said this stuff is just like me - beautiful, but a real PITA.



daniel

 

[Grizz]

I do a lot of spalted bowls and found that, besides the CA mentioned and stopping and looking at your blank often. That some material is best turned into a basic shape and then start sanding it to what you want. Start with about an 80 grit.

 

[gomeral]

I do a lot of spalted bowls and found that, besides the CA mentioned and stopping and looking at your blank often. That some material is best turned into a basic shape and then start sanding it to what you want. Start with about an 80 grit.

This is actually what I started to do last night when I still had a considerable amount of wood left (wanted to experiment before I ruined the blank sanding below OD) - I found that sanding was removing the softer wood faster than the harder, leaving dips all over the blank. I was not sanding with paper on a flat surface, though, only holding a strip by the ends, wrapped around the blank as it turned.

I'll experiment with the paper-on-flat-thing approach, I'm sure.



daniel

 

[wdcav1952]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll try again tonight. After I posted, I told my wife the problem I'd been having - she said this stuff is just like me - beautiful, but a real PITA.



daniel

Are you sure she didn't say "You are a Beaut! A real PITA!!"

:biggrin::tongue::redface:

 

[arkie]

Sharp sandpaper, a hard sanding block, a light touch, and a good dust mask are all necessary.

 

[ssajn]

I've had a lot of luck using Minwax Wood Hardener. Soak your blanks over night and then drain and dry for a few days. I've used it on spalted and other punky blanks and rarely loose one. You can also add stain or other dies to color the wood. If you can, drill your blanks first.

 

[spiritwoodturner]

I have to say, I just finished the first spalted piece (tamarind) and some very soft flame box elder that has undergone vacuum pot duty in Minwax Wood Hardener, and I am really blown away by how well it worked. The box elder turned and finished like plastic, and when I put it in the pot it was fingernail-denting soft. The tamarind was moderately spalted and rather soft, now it's hard throughout. I have literally hundreds of gorgeous blanks that are waiting their turn for the pot-redwood burl, buckeye burl and lots more.

Daniel, if your material is like in a near-powdered state of spalting, it could be a losing battle. If you don't yet have a pot, maybe someone close to you from the group does so you could try the vacuum/Minwax regimen. It's kind of been a breakthrough for me, because I had so much nice wood that I really was getting mixed results with, even with lots of CA.

 

[Lulanrt]

I spoke with some folks at River Ridge Products and they stabilize at a reasonable price. www.rrpwhite.com. They charge by the pound. A friend recommended them, gets all his stuff stabilized there.
Travis

 

[gomeral]

Daniel, if your material is like in a near-powdered state of spalting, it could be a losing battle. If you don't yet have a pot, maybe someone close to you from the group does so you could try the vacuum/Minwax regimen. It's kind of been a breakthrough for me, because I had so much nice wood that I really was getting mixed results with, even with lots of CA.

I have seriously been considering getting a pot because I have some great ideas (I think) for custom blanks. Now I have a better reason - to turn some of this spalted wood I have! I am going to research a bit to find out what I need and put together a shopping/price list. If it's reasonable, I'm going to take the plunge. And when the wife notices, I'll blame YOU! :biggrin:



daniel

 

[nava1uni]

I use minwax hardener. I drill a hole in the blank and then put them in a container and cover them. Leave them for a few days and then let them dry for a few days. I never use sand paper with a grit less then 150. Anything less tears the wood up and then it is difficult to repair. If while turning any tear out occurs I use fine saw dust and CA to repair. Tools have to be real sharp and sharpened frequently. If they get dull that is when the tear out happens.

 

[spiritwoodturner]

If it's reasonable, I'm going to take the plunge. And when the wife notices, I'll blame YOU! :biggrin:



daniel

Believe me, it's reasonable. And if you hit a snag with the Dept. of Common Sense, I have many strategies to get you out of The Doghouse!!!

Have fun Daniel! Make something incredible!

 

[Verne]

I've been working on a piece of really, really punky Spalted Oak that Monty gave me, for about a week now. Don't know if it's pin oak or water oak but the clip end of a Cigar pen is finished and the nib end is just about ready to sand and finish.
One thing that I've finally figured out is when you know you need to wick some more CA but think "well, I'll just make one more pass" it's too late. It's hard to do but you got to stop right then. Seems the wood knows how you think. It knows that you really want to get done...it also knows that one more pass is going to be one too many and POW! there goes my punky wood. I think that I'll get this one done tomorrow if I can just resist that urge to make one more pass.
Vern

 

[wb7whi]

I quit using ca...makes the pen too expensive. I have a lot of punky spalted maple and in the begining I only got 1 pen out of 5 tries but I learned. Sharp tools, high speed and a verrrrry gentle touch.
It amazes me how that punky wood will finish so nicely...should you get that far

Wayne