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Old 11-03-2017, 08:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefoye View Post
I turn a lot of acrylic blanks and I use carbide tools exclusively for all of my wood and acrylic turnings. I ran in to chipping and breaking problems some time ago trying to turn Mica blanks from PSI and got so frustrated that I just don't buy them anymore. I recently had a similar problem with Rhino blanks but I sped the lathe up a little and took much shallower cuts and took my time (after reading reviews) and was able to get the desired result. Now I am REALLY having a problem with Stars and Stripes blanks (also from PSI). When I read reviews they all say how hard these are to turn without chipping and cracking. To try something new, this weekend I purchased new Woodpecker tools because they have a 45 deg. bevel on the shaft and I thought that it would help me "cut" the blanks instead of "scraping" them. I have the lathe at around 3,000. The Woodpecker carbides are really very sharp and if I go really slow I can get them close. I read a couple of reviews that suggested using dull tools! I don't know how to do that because I buy carbides because they are always sharp. The last two blanks that I made I roughed them with the tools and they were chipped a bit. I then resorted to a Dremel rotary sanding disc to get them down close to size and below the chips and then very slowly and with really shallow cuts I was able to use the 2 deg radius scraper to finish them good enough for final sanding. Every single one of these I turn has chipping problems no matter what I try. I bought a bunch of these for my American Patriot and Salute to Troops pens and am hoping that someone out there has a magic bullet idea that will keep me from breaking these things because they are strikingly beautiful when they are done.
Well, I call it the "Flap Disc System", not everybody likes or accepts the system which is OK with me, try it and if it works for you, problem solved...!

Good luck,

Cheers
George
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Old 11-04-2017, 09:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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tattooed turner: can you tell me or describe what a "detail gouge" shape is? I have a 1/2" HSS fingernail gouge that I don't use at all since switching to carbides. I am still a relative novice and I have yet to learn the proper use of a gouge and a skew.
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Old 11-04-2017, 10:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by mikefoye View Post
tattooed turner: can you tell me or describe what a "detail gouge" shape is? I have a 1/2" HSS fingernail gouge that I don't use at all since switching to carbides. I am still a relative novice and I have yet to learn the proper use of a gouge and a skew.
They have a shallow flute which you can't duplicate, but you can copy the grind. The cheap HF spindle gouge has a shallow flute so that wasn't a problem. I ground it to a long fingernail shape, and decreased the angle which made the tip pointier than a regular or fingernail grind gouge - which allows it to get into tight spaces like between beads. This was entirely by accident, it was the first time I ever sharpened a spindle gouge and had no idea what I was doing! Using the wing with the tool rotated about 45 degrees slices through the brittle stuff like butter. As usual for the cheap carbon steel tool, it need frequent sharpening, easily 2 or 3 times on a blank. FWIW I'm pretty sure it's a 3/8".
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