Turning blanks with hardwood and sapwood

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pmpartain

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A friend of mine gave me a couple pieces of black walnut he was going to use as firewood. I got a couple blanks with hardwood and sapwood. As I turned the blank, I noticed something wasn't right. I know my lathe has vibration (Craftsman), but I found that I had removed much more sapwood than hardwood. Is this a common problem? I believe the problem may have gotten worse during the sanding. Maybe I should have soaked in some CA glue or something? Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure I can get some more good pieces cut out, but if this problem is going to persist, then I'm not going to bother.
 
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wdcav1952

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Mark, try some of the usual suggestions: Scary sharp tools, VERY light cuts, and yes, soak in some CA. A mix of heart and sap wood can be striking, but it does take more care than usual.

Good luck and post some pictures of the results.
 

Dario

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Two different densities can cause the softer part to sand/abrade faster. CA will even it a lot.

Also Black Walnut sapwood might end up being same color as the heartwood in just a short while (making it not worth the trouble). I've read long time ago that this may be prevented but cannot recall how.
 

tnilmerl

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Ditto on the other comments.

You'll also find it much more difficult to sand your blanks. The dust from the darker wood tends to muddy the lighter wood. Using a dark sand paper will also tend to muddy the lighter wood. Since I haven't struck a satisfactory solution to this problem, I've tended to just store away those blanks into a 'too good to toss, I'll hang onto awhile' stash.
 

JimGo

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I've done several heart and sapwood combinations. I'm far from an expert, and hopefully others will chime in to correct any bad advice I may give. However, based on my experience, the different densities will make the blank feel off balance, and they will cut and sand differently too. Dario and Cav's suggestions about CA are good ones from that perspective. Since walnut tends to be somewhat open grained, I would suggest that, once you have the shape you want, you hit the barrels with a blast of compressed air, wipe with denatured alcohol, wipe with a tack cloth, or otherwise try to remove any residue. Then re-apply CA or apply another sanding sealer (preferably several coats) before you start sanding, this way you seal the grain. This is very important to prevent "bleeding" from the heartwood into the sapwood. Carefully sand everything down 'till the sanding sealer fills the grain (i.e. sand off the sealer over what would otherwise be the "smooth" part of the wood), then continue your sanding routine. As Travis said, the dark sandpapers can leave a black residue in open grains; the sanding sealer will help prevent this, but won't completely eliminate it. You'll still see some residue in the blank, that's why lighter colored sand papers are recommended. Also, be sure to clean the blank periodically (preferably at least between grits) to help remove any sand paper dust that accumulates on the blank, since this dust will also likely include pieces of the "sand".
 

wdcav1952

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Nicely said, Jim. IMO, the CA is the most important thing with respect to maintaining shape and preventing discoloration of the lighter wood. As long as you are sanding wood saturated with CA, you should not get much if any, discoloration.

FWIW,
 

JimGo

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I'm not sure; I don't turn much wood that's been stabilized, though not for any specific reason. In theory, stabilizing should help since you're filling the openings in the grain with resin, but I would think that you wouldn't get 100% saturation, so you still may wind up with some open grain. Hopefully others with more experience with stabilized woods will chime in, but I didn't want you to think we were (or at least I was) ignoring the question!
 

pmpartain

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Good advice from everyone! Thanks. I'll post a picture when I get home from work. I used the wood on an El Grande balpoint. I plan to try the CA on the next one. I'm pretty sure I had a good wobble before I started sanding, so I think the tool actually cut deeper into the softer sapwood. I thought about putting less forward pressure on the tool to avoid that problem. I'm not the most savvy of turner's so I'll have to get the feel for that. I guess that's where the very light cuts come in.
 

alamocdc

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Originally posted by alparent
<br />Would stabelizing the blank take care of the problem?
It should, since it would accomplish the same thing as applying CA. I'm just not sure what kind of penetration you'd get unless you had it done professionally.
 
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