Turning between centers

[buster]

I was wondering if turning between centers messes up the inside of the brass tube. Like flaring it or wearing any of it down so when you press it together it doesnt fit right. Also, can it wear down your live or drive center.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[toolcrazy]

As long as your careful, NO. Over tightening can cause problems. I use the standard bushings all the time and haven't had a problem. The only bushing I have bought for between centers are for the 7mm type pens.

 

[DozerMite]

It will wear your centers. Even on the hardened ones, I don't know about the carbide tipped. If you use John Goodin's bushings, they won't wear, they are drilled 60* to match the centers.

 

[Charlie in Garfield]

Hi Buster,
I sort of beg to differ with toolcrazy, for this reason.
1 you are working between centers, one live in the tail stock and
the other in your head stock. You MUST tighten with bushings tight enough that the pen stock dose not slip when you touch it with your
tool.
Just Charlie & Betsy

 

[Dan_F]

I start off with bushings, then switch to the tube alone when nearly to final size and shape, then use calipers to get final dimensions. I need more pressure when first rounding the blank, but after that less is needed. I also sand and apply the finish without the bushings, which prevents bushing dust contaminating the blank, as well as doing away with any problems with the blank getting glued to the bushings as the finish is applied. This way the bushings will last indefinitely too.

I am very careful to use minimal pressure from the live center when going without bushings, and it requires surprisingly little by that point. I haven't had any problem with deformity or fit difficulties, but you might if you're not careful.

 

[Marc Phillips]

Originally posted by Dan_F

I start off with bushings, then switch to the tube alone when nearly to final size and shape, then use calipers to get final dimensions. I need more pressure when first rounding the blank, but after that less is needed. I also sand and apply the finish without the bushings, which prevents bushing dust contaminating the blank, as well as doing away with any problems with the blank getting glued to the bushings as the finish is applied. This way the bushings will last indefinitely too.

I am very careful to use minimal pressure from the live center when going without bushings, and it requires surprisingly little by that point. I haven't had any problem with deformity or fit difficulties, but you might if you're not careful.

Wow... great tip!... being new to turning between centers that thought hadn't occurred to me at all....

Thanks! ... it will be nice to have the bushings out of the way for the final sanding down to finished size...

 

[Rifleman1776]

Dan's post pretty well covers it. I turn with bushings down to almost final size then remove bushings and sand (very carefully) to final fit. As said, it requires very little pressure. Never had a flaring problem. Another bonus is that my bushing last much longer as I am not scraping them with the skew to get that perfect fit anymore.

 

[rherrell]

I agree with Dan and Frank 100%.

 

[leehljp]

Originally posted by Marc Phillips

Originally posted by Dan_F

I start off with bushings, then switch to the tube alone when nearly to final size and shape, then use calipers to get final dimensions. I need more pressure when first rounding the blank, but after that less is needed. I also sand and apply the finish without the bushings,. . . .

I am very careful to use minimal pressure from the live center when going without bushings, and it requires surprisingly little by that point. I haven't had any problem with deformity or fit difficulties, but you might if you're not careful.

Wow... great tip!... being new to turning between centers that thought hadn't occurred to me at all....

Thanks! ... it will be nice to have the bushings out of the way for the final sanding down to finished size...

Using without bushing for the "finishing" process was the reason I went to the no-mandrel method. Eliminating the mandrel and OOR (out of round) were side benefits for me - and I was very happy to have these side benefits.

JUST for fun - about 6 weeks ago, I did turn a blank from square without bushings and without flaring the brass. It took PATIENCE (about 25 minutes) high speed, and a sharp sharp skew, along with tiny tiny bites to get it round. From there, I used course sand paper (120) to get it down to close to size and 240, 320 from there. It worked and the brass was not flared to any visible noticeability. It CAN be done, but is not the best or norm, IMO.